Mr cementSPB

[David Lovell]

I've been using mr cement S as my goto for some time now dont ask because I dont know why I switched to it ive a feeling it was down to the fact we've only got one model shop and a little model railway shop local to where I am ,the model shop is ok they keep tamiya kits (for all the shakers and bakers)and paints including tet but you have to drive into town pay through the nose to park then walk to the shop itself not good whereas the little railway shop is closer on a small industrial estate and you park outside the door ,they seem to be stocking quite a lot of kits now mostly 35ers not tamiya a lot of airfix ,paints are humbrol or mr hobby all the mr hobby thinners cements decal setters masking fluids so I think I just bought a mr cement S.
Anyway I've got tet as well and tet quick stuff even a couple of little jars of tamiya cement (the gloopy stuff) ,when you couldn't get tet here I use to get it from Hong Kong ,it came with a free jar of the gloopy stuff any way before you all fall asleep a couple of weeks back I purchased one of thoes flash cement jar holders from our own SMShop and at the same time a jar of the SPB piqued my intrest so have used it on the SU-122 ,novelty I dont think so seems to work like the rest slightly less aggressive perhaps (but thats probably a personal thought) the interesting thing being is watching the capillary action when you touch the joint with the brush ,I've used it no differently than I've always used the rest but because you can see it I was amazed at what gets splashed about ,my only complaint about the mr cement stuff is the brush isn't as good as the tet one nothing wrong with it just you know what I mean.
The wallet busting though beautifully well made pot stand the next couple of shots you can see how the cement enters the joints


But as I said also where I've splashed it about you would never see this with the clear once it evaps this stuff leaves a little tale tale stain.
Anyway I suppose just the same as the other extra thins but in my own simple life more fun to use. Dave

[BarryW]

Gunze do make an interesting range of cements.

Mr Cement S is my ‘go to’ and I much prefer it to TET

Mr Cement SP is a good alternative to S but I don’t really see much difference to S.

Mr Cement SPB, as you mentioned, is an interesting option that I tried once but I really don’t get the point of the black personally.

Mr Cement De Lux is a good slow drying option for those odd jobs, usually small parts in hard to reach places, that need cement applied to a mating surface.

There are a few others from them too including a lemony smelling version and a basic cement.

While on the subject of cement the Ammo cements are good too. An extra thin one thats as good as Mr CS and a slow drying one that gives a really good bond but is a bit stringy.

[BattleshipBob]

Interesting, are they very smelly?

My biggest problem is even with ventilation i get banging headaches

[David Lovell]

Interesting, are they very smelly?

My biggest problem is even with ventilation i get banging headaches

Dont smell to me mate plus like I said with the black cement you can see exactly what your doing and what you've done no diffrent to other cements but in my tiny little world fun to use i like it. Dave

[rtfoe]

I guess the SPB helps in applying precise amounts of paint. Due to these glues evaporating so fast, with TET I'm not sure whether I've applied enough and tend to do a second application and occasionally flood the bond so a huge blowjob ensues to dry it...I think that sounded off. :rolling::tongue-out2:

Cheers,
Richard

[Guest]

I use a range & choose for the application appropriate.

Quick go off 20 sec Mr Cement S. Not good I have found for a good solid joint if one is needed.
Also you cannot prime the ends to meet as it goes off to quickly. Wicking only.
Minimum damage, almost non, when in contact with surface plastic.

Medium go off Tamiya Ultra Thin 40 secs. Go quick & you can prime ends to meet before putting
together plus good wicking.
Some minor surface damage & needs a little "sanding" attention

Problems s l o w going off. Tamiya cement But superb where a good solid joint is requires. certainly softens the plastic
No good at wicking wrecks the surface plastic

Laurie

[Tim Marlow]

,my only complaint about the mr cement stuff is the brush isn't as good as the tet one nothing wrong with it just you know what I mean.

You can always remove the supplied brush and use a paintbrush Dave.
I used MEK PAK as my go-to solvent for years. It came in a plain bottle and I just had a couple of cheap paintbrushes as my applicators. I’d still use it now if I could get any……to me it was the perfect solvent, not too hot, but hot enough to work quickly…..especially good for plastic card scratch building work. The others I have tried are either overly aggressive (too hot), not hot enough, needing repeat applications to work, or simply evaporated too fast.

[David Lovell]

You can always remove the supplied brush and use a paintbrush Dave.
I used MEK PAK as my go-to solvent for years. It came in a plain bottle and I just had a couple of cheap paintbrushes as my applicators. I’d still use it now if I could get any……to me it was the perfect solvent, not too hot, but hot enough to work quickly…..especially good for plastic card scratch building work. The others I have tried are either overly aggressive (too hot), not hot enough, needing repeat applications to work, or simply evaporated too fast.

Hi Tim i use em all mr cement and tamiya normal slow fast as you say diffrent aggressiveness but as you know most of what I build comes from the Ukraine side of town where the plastic is a bit like a box of choccies ranging from perfect plastic to what can only be described as kinder so usually one of them suits. I assume when Laurie talks of priming the ends joing but to but? I go with the gloopy stuff from tamiya in the little jar ,other than that if it can be held together or held in place I'll jut touch it with the cement brush and let the capillary do the rest.
Now somewhere I've got a thing of Revell contacter? Now that is awful that silly little pipe you spend more time unblocking someone showed me to put a lighter flame under the pipe and it goes off like a little flame thrower (don't tell JR)must admit for years now ive only used the thin stuff . Sometimes I use ca for tiny pieces it stands up to weathering better. Dave

[Guest]

You can always remove the supplied brush and use a paintbrush Dave.
I used MEK PAK as my go-to solvent for years. It came in a plain bottle and I just had a couple of cheap paintbrushes as my applicators. I’d still use it now if I could get any……to me it was the perfect solvent, not too hot, but hot enough to work quickly…..especially good for plastic card scratch building work. The others I have tried are either overly aggressive (too hot), not hot enough, needing repeat applications to work, or simply evaporated too fast.

Hi Tim is MEK PAK smelly, I've used there EMA glue and that's ok.
Pete

[JR]

Dave I bought some of that, thinking it would help me to stop using too much glue.
The first time I used it, it scared me as there was black every where ! Haven't used it since, might now I've read your post .

[David Lovell]

Dave I bought some of that, thinking it would help me to stop using too much glue.
The first time I used it, it scared me as there was black every where ! Haven't used it since, might now I've read your post .

Hi John like you I was shocked at how much gets splashed about ,now once I've dipped the brush i knock a fair bit off on the jar lip its surprising with it being so thin how little you need/use for the capillary action to work ,it certainly made me try and smarten up(Idid say try ,hard when I'm probably the biggest corner cutting slob out there)the more this discussion goes on the more I like this product show it the daylight again John I think your use it with a totally different attitude now ,stay safe buddy. Dave

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Tim is MEK PAK smelly, I've used there EMA glue and that's ok.
Pete

I use EMA sometimes as well Pete. It’s similar to MEK PAK but not quite as hot. I only use capillary action, holding parts together then touching a fine loaded brush to the joint and letting it flow.
MEK is no longer available I think, Slaters changed the formula ten years or so ago. It was no more or less smelly than EVA. For my figures I mostly use Contacta because the gap filling is useful and saves me a job. I keep the nozzle clear with a steel thread from a piece of picture hanging wire on the rare occasions when I need to. The secret is to put the cap back on between applications so the glue in the nozzle doesn’t dry out.

[Guest]

I use EMA sometimes as well Pete. It’s similar to MEK PAK but not quite as hot. I only use capillary action, holding parts together then touching a fine loaded brush to the joint and letting it flow.
MEK is no longer available I think, Slaters changed the formula ten years or so ago. It was no more or less smelly than EVA. For my figures I mostly use Contacta because the gap filling is useful and saves me a job. I keep the nozzle clear with a steel thread from a piece of picture hanging wire on the rare occasions when I need to. The secret is to put the cap back on between applications so the glue in the nozzle doesn’t dry out.

It is still available :thumb2:
Pete

[Tim Marlow]

Something of the same name is available, but the contents of the bottle are different :disappointed2:

[Tim Marlow]

Just had a look at the Slaters web site, and see they do phosphoric acid flux. That is the gold standard as far as I’m concerned…..especially if used with Carrs low melt 145 solder.