Scale Model Shop

**monica** · 29 October 2014, 07:51

hi Penny,

well this is the type i got as for $ 89.00 Aud,s the 3th one down,comes with all fitting and even a AB as well just look for a gravity feed dual action one, with from a .03 needle to .05

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=air+compressors&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_ from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X nail+air+compressors&_nkw=nail+air+compressors&_sa cat=0

alot of the guys use the same type and find they work well,

and they are a bit better at explaining things than I,

I only use Vallejo air paint, and i find that its very good,

hope this is some help,

**PaulTRose** · 29 October 2014, 07:57

i second the vallejo air paint......no thinning needed, use straight from the bottle, no messing about and easy to clean

the thing ive learnt from airbrushes is to look after them, clean them properly, take care of the tip and it will last for a long time

why do you need the little side cups? the ab comes with one

**Guest** · 29 October 2014, 09:56

Penelope I would put down these basics.

Compressor an AS type. There are many under different name but all come from the same factory in China. Specifically designated for uses with an airbrush. With a tank (cost probably another £15 approx but the tank type give a much more smooth air supply).

Airbrush. I only know about Iwata and Harder and Steenbeck. If you can afford it go for one of these as they are by common consent ( I believe) the best around. Started with an Harder and Steenback then recently went to Iwata. My opinion go for a Harder and Steenbeck as a beginner. They produce great results and are much easier to use than an Iwata. Starting you are probably going to get more clog ups until you gain experience on how to avoid them. An H & S is much easier to de-clog and much simpler to take apart and give a deep clean. 4min for an H & S deep clean.

Airbrush. Needle nozzle size. Best for a beginner with Vallejo is a .35 or .4 needle/nozzle combination. Best not to go .2 until experience has been gained.

Vallejo. Go for Model Air which is prepared for airbrush work. I would say thin say 15% to start with as this will be easier. Use Vallejo thinners as this has all the constituents that the paint has ie you are not degrading the paint quality. Use Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner. It softens hard paint to the touch and I have not found better after trying a few.

Last go. Read a lot about an Iwata Neo which seems to be a good quality starter brush at a reasonable cost. May be others here who have experience and can give info. From my experience buy the best brush you can afford. If you want to upgrade to a better one a good second hand airbrush you will be able to market on.

Laurie

PS just had another look at your question. Only go for a top gravity fed cup. For model making where you are mixing and changing paints in a session a bottom bottle is a disaster area. I had one to begin with, badly advised, and nearly gave up altogether as i found it a nightmare.

**PaulTRose** · 29 October 2014, 10:13

Originally posted by \

Last go. Read a lot about an Iwata Neo which seems to be a good quality starter brush at a reasonable cost.

if you get a good one..........they have some quality control issues.....its a bit of a gamble if you will get a good one or not...mines gone a bit off and to buy the spares is about the same as buying a new one!!.......cant send it back cos i never registered it when i bought it....my own fault so cant whinge about it

i bought a cheapo side feed chinese one for 15 quid to replace it til i can afford a really good one and it does everything the Neo did and i know if i look after it and clean it properly it will last a year or two before needing replacement and thats good value in my book..............but if i could afford a really good iwata or paasche or H&S i would, but i cant

**Guest** · 29 October 2014, 11:36

I had an Iwata SBS many moons ago, but I had issues with the side cup

1- the paint channel in the cup gets blocked very easily, and is a devil to get cleared because of the way the channel is cast into the body of the cup

2. try getting a replacement..../spare

I went with a gravity fed cup Iwata in the end, as the cleaning is much easier

**BarryW** · 29 October 2014, 16:03

Hi Penelope, welcome to the forum.

I would second much of what the others said, in particular Laurie and i respect of the following:

1 - do get a gravity fed brush. It is much more suitable for model work.

2 - Harder & Steenbeck with a 0.4 needle. Iwata are good too but specially for a newby the H&S makes life a lot easier.

3 - The AS186 compressor is a very good starter with the air tank and good value. Mine is going strong after 3 years without a hitch.

4 - Vallejo Model Air paints - these are so easy to dispense into a cup from an eye dropper bottle while being airbrush ready are easy to use. If, like me, you can be clumsy then these bottles also mean no splills and mess.

5 - Vallejo thinner and cleaner. Cant beat them with Vallejo paints.

6 - practise, practice and then practise some more....

Getting to master the airbrush can be time consuming and a chore but is well worth it. Look up some tutorial video un-line. Some are very good, other less so but in my view the best can be accessed via the Flory website, Google Flory to find it. There is a cost £3pm with no tie ins and with all the videos and features on the site it is a well spent £3....

Good luck!!

**Guest** · 29 October 2014, 16:17

Hi Penelope , forget bottom or side feed AB`s , gravity is by far the best way to go in my opinion , you say 1/48 aircraft are now your passion a gravity AB is fine and as Laurie says vallejo air paint is the way to go with all colours catered for , vallejo air is pre-mixed for airbrushing but a lot of us still add a little vallejo thinners which helps clogging the ab .

Airbrushes - if your in for the long haul get the best you can afford it makes a huge difference believe me , I started with cheap ab`s then went to iwata`s their a different league altogether , if your only plan to use acrylics the the iwata neo is perfect because it has rubber o rings , if you plan at some stage to use enamel or solvent paints then a iwata eclipse or revolution or better is the way to go as they have ceramic o rings which will not rot over time.

compressors - as above the best you can afford , I`ve had the cheap compressors which all went wrong over time , got myself a iwata smart jet pro as above different league , to me a neo ab and sprint compressor sounds a great starting point .

I sound like a Iwata rep LOL ,other quality makes are availible .

finally last word - why not buy through the scalemodel shop on this forum , John who runs/owns this forum and the scalemodel shop is 1st class .

Richy

**Guest** · 31 October 2014, 04:03

In terms of paint, use Gunze Sangyo mr hobby aqueous. This paint is absolutely fantastic and quite accurate

John

**Guest** · 31 October 2014, 04:07

Originally posted by \

Hi Penelope , forget bottom or side feed AB`s , gravity is by far the best way to go in my opinion , you say 1/48 aircraft are now your passion a gravity AB is fine and as Laurie says vallejo air paint is the way to go with all colours catered for , vallejo air is pre-mixed for airbrushing but a lot of us still add a little vallejo thinners which helps clogging the ab .Airbrushes - if your in for the long haul get the best you can afford it makes a huge difference believe me , I started with cheap ab`s then went to iwata`s their a different league altogether , if your only plan to use acrylics the the iwata neo is perfect because it has rubber o rings , if you plan at some stage to use enamel or solvent paints then a iwata eclipse or revolution or better is the way to go as they have ceramic o rings which will not rot over time.

compressors - as above the best you can afford , I`ve had the cheap compressors which all went wrong over time , got myself a iwata smart jet pro as above different league , to me a neo ab and sprint compressor sounds a great starting point .

I sound like a Iwata rep LOL ,other quality makes are availible .

finally last word - why not buy through the scalemodel shop on this forum , John who runs/owns this forum and the scalemodel shop is 1st class .

Richy

I use a gravity fed Iwata. It is absolutely fantastic. Both the paint feed and the airbrush in general. Try to get branded airbrushes

John

**Guest** · 01 November 2014, 07:48

First, if you can, get to a model show with traders present, so that you can handle various brushes, and pick one that feels right. I have big hands, and Badgers feel too small, so I use a Paasche VLS, which is quite solid in its "feel." Female hands tend to be smaller, and daintier, so a lighter brush might be more to your liking.

I've used brushes with top , side, and under feed, and found that there's nothing to say that one type is better than the other; it's all down to the standard of workmanship.

Choose a compressor that will supply at least .5 cu.ft. of air (sorry, don't know the metric equivalent,) otherwise you risk having insufficient air during a session, with consequent "pulsing," and uneven results.

Don't think as a "beginner," since it's surprisingly easy (with the right tuition) to learn airbrushing techniques; in a shop, where I worked, we did after-hours sessions, and found that most modellers were perfectly happy (and capable) after one hour's tuition.

A single-action brush is always a single-action brush, but a dual-action can usually be set, and used, as a single-action, then, when you've gained sufficient confidence, be reset to its dual action, and you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

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