What have I done here?

[Guest]

Help!! I've cleaned this Airbrush a hundred times now, but this is still happening:

When I spray, I'm getting good coverage, but I'm getting the occasional splodge that goes miles away from where I'm pointing the brush!

I can mitigate it by restricting the needle travel, but naturally this then means it takes an age to paint anything. I've got away so far as I was doing the under carriage, but I'm about to crack on with some camo paint and this kind of splodging will not do on a visible surface!

Any pointers gratefully received.

I've got a cheapo brush which was fine up until recently. Cleaned, cleaned and cleaned again. Running at 20psi using brand new Vallejo Model Air

[monica]

no help but have had the same thing happen to me yesterday as well,Mike

with a cheapo AB with model air,

so will tag along to see what help is inputted,once before had that happen and got go advice but forget what was said, ops:

[Guest]

I say I've cleaned it 100 times but I've just noticed the crown was absolutely minging and had residue all over it, I hope it isn't that simple, about to give it another go

[monica]

some times i find that you get some paint around the nuzzle could also be part of it,

[Guest]

Mike a few help clues.

What pressure are you using ? What needle/nozzle size ? Have you tried another Vallejo Model Air Colour to make sure you do not have a paint problem ? Did you make sure the paint was well mixed ? Did you thin at all and if what with ?

Other possibilities. Withdraw the needle to see if it has minute bits of paint stuck to the end or sides. Study the end of the needle under a magnifier to see if the end is damaged. Look at the nozzle under magnificatio to see if you have glued in paint.

Have you Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner. If so steep the nozzle in the cleaner for a couple of hours.

After this come back and see if some one can have a go at the problem.

Laurie

[Guest]

When you're spraying Mike, remove the nozzle cap ( be careful as the needle tip will be exposed) & check for clogging.

I get that same splatter pattern sometimes if I haven't stirred the paint enough.

[Guest]

Thanks for all the tips! It seems there were two other problems! Spray was a lot better without nozzle cap until that was cleaned. But the needle cap looked clean, but it wasn't there was some residue build up right where the needle meets the hole, that made things much better, but still some spitting.

The ultimate fix was that I have a screw under the colour cup, I don't remember adjusting it as I don't know what it does but screwing that in made the air flow better and the spitting stop. The result being a spit free coat of paint (even if I did forget to put tape under the rear stabilisers so I've not been able to paint the tail properly!)

[Guest]

Well, this all turned out moot! Got me airbrush cleaned and spraying properly, multiple colours without an issue. The above is a new tool Airfix Mk I Hurricane, there's been a few builds on this already.

Here's T. Van Vuurens: http://www.scale-models.co.uk/community/threads/another-hurri.29021/

Here's Alans: http://www.scale-models.co.uk/community/threads/airfix-1-72-hawker-hurricane-mki.28807/

All good looking Hurries! I get some Maskol applied, and lay down the Dark Green over the top, and as I'm tidying up and removing the remaining masking tape, I think to myself it looks a bit odd, and have a quick check of the sprues:

I left the rudder on the Sprue!! D'OH!!!

Ah well, Airbrush is working a treat again now, thanks for the tips all! I should be able to spray up the rudder without too much hassle tomorrow - but what a plonker!

[Alan 45]

These problems don't happen with the hairy stick

[Guest]

Help!! I've cleaned this Airbrush a hundred times now, but this is still happening:When I spray, I'm getting good coverage, but I'm getting the occasional splodge that goes miles away from where I'm pointing the brush!

I can mitigate it by restricting the needle travel, but naturally this then means it takes an age to paint anything. I've got away so far as I was doing the under carriage, but I'm about to crack on with some camo paint and this kind of splodging will not do on a visible surface!

Any pointers gratefully received.

I've got a cheapo brush which was fine up until recently. Cleaned, cleaned and cleaned again. Running at 20psi using brand new Vallejo Model Air

You sort of have to expect that when you get unbranded airbrushes. Try investing in a branded AB next time. Try flushing the Airbrush out with isopropinyl alcohol and if desperate, use cellulose thinners. That should fix it. However, cheapo airbrushes' O rings cannot take cellulose, so you would better steer clear of them unless you have absolute reassurance that it can take cellulose thinners.

John

[Guest]

Well, this all turned out moot! Got me airbrush cleaned and spraying properly, multiple colours without an issue. The above is a new tool Airfix Mk I Hurricane, there's been a few builds on this already.Here's T. Van Vuurens: http://www.scale-models.co.uk/community/threads/another-hurri.29021/

Here's Alans: http://www.scale-models.co.uk/community/threads/airfix-1-72-hawker-hurricane-mki.28807/

All good looking Hurries! I get some Maskol applied, and lay down the Dark Green over the top, and as I'm tidying up and removing the remaining masking tape, I think to myself it looks a bit odd, and have a quick check of the sprues:

I left the rudder on the Sprue!! D'OH!!!

Ah well, Airbrush is working a treat again now, thanks for the tips all! I should be able to spray up the rudder without too much hassle tomorrow - but what a plonker!

Also, a quick word of advice. Try free handing the camouflage as RAF camo was not that sharp-it was more smooth and rounded. Only Luftwaffe aircraft splinter camo had sharp edges. Freehanding will create a more realistic effect.

Cheers, John

[Guest]

It has to do with psi

[stona]

Also, a quick word of advice. Try free handing the camouflage as RAF camo was not that sharp-it was more smooth and rounded. Only Luftwaffe aircraft splinter camo had sharp edges. Freehanding will create a more realistic effect.Cheers, John

I can't really agree with that. A softer edge might make a more pleasing artistic effect, but in fact the demarcation of the upper colours was tightly regulated by the Ministry. Many believe that masks were used to speed up the spraying process, and there is much anecdotal evidence to support this at the Hawker factory.

The camouflage demarcations would have been tight when the aircraft left the factory, whether or not masks were used.













What happened later, if an aircraft was repaired and/or re-sprayed is less certain, and there is certainly evidence for some somewhat softer demarcations.



This was less common than you might expect. I've had to really search my files for a good picture of a softer demarcation.

As always, the best guide is a good reference photograph.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

I can't really agree with that. A softer edge might make a more pleasing artistic effect, but in fact the demarcation of the upper colours was tightly regulated by the Ministry. Many believe that masks were used to speed up the spraying process, and there is much anecdotal evidence to support this at the Hawker factory.The camouflage demarcations would have been tight when the aircraft left the factory, whether or not masks were used.

What happened later, if an aircraft was repaired and/or re-sprayed is less certain, and there is certainly evidence for some somewhat softer demarcations.

This was less common than you might expect. I've had to really search my files for a good picture of a softer demarcation.

As always, the best guide is a good reference photograph. Cheers Steve

I have seen photos where they had templates thrown over the fuselage and wing. They were using a spray to paint the camouflage. From memory this was in a factory. Again from memory the templates were about 15mm thick. I suspect that as the sprayers were carrying out this work they became quite good at providing a sharp line. Never could understand the sharp line as I would have thought for camouflage you would have had the colours melting together.

On the artistic point. When you look at an aircraft from a distance, similar effect to our scale models, the lines of the camouflage do not look sharp (just contradicted my text above). In the end it is down to the character of the person building the model. For me sharp lines on a model aircraft look unreal as do the exaggerated soft ones. Just a hint of softness to me and to suit the scale.

Laurie

[stona]

I think Laurie that you are thinking of a photograph of some P-40 wings being sprayed at a Curtiss plant.

The reason that the demarcation was so closely regulated by the MAP was that the overspray area was rough and caused drag and hence a deleterious effect on the performance of the aeroplane. Rubbing down caused other problems, hence the closely regulated demarcations.

Whether or not masks were used is a bit controversial, but they would seem a logical way to obtain the sorts of demarcations seen above, particularly if the sprayers were less skilled. A lack of skilled labour was a problem for the British aircraft industry as many had left to join one of the Armed Services.

There was a briefly lived plan that the other demarcation, between the upper and lower colours, be blended, but this was soon abandoned. The aircraft producers continued with the harder demarcation.



The minute was issued on 21st May and rescinded on 2nd June, you can bet no aircraft got the blended demarcation in that period.

I do mine hard without some very good evidence to the contrary:





Cheers

Steve