Spray painting base coats for large models?

[eddiesolo]

A wash can be a bought pre mixed or you can do your own 5% paint colour and 95% thinners. Types used, acrylics, enamels, a more popular is one that I use which is a oil pain-artists oils and white spirit. Use a fine brush to dip and let run into the gaps etc, also you can sponge etc to get a mottled worn/dirty look.

[Guest]

Oh that sounds like it'll look good!


Man, I gotta find a real hobby shop around here. We have a craft store but it mostly caters to scrap bookers and decopage. We've got a "hobby" store that only caters to radio controlled airplanes and cars(and not painting them). It's kind of annoying.

[Guest]

At that size just use rattle cans, it will cheaper and far easier. I use grey, red and white primer dependent on top coat. I make RC boats and some large models so this is the easier way to do things.
Use the airbrush for small and detail areas after masking, the bulk use rattle-cans.


Welcome to the forum by the way.

I used Tamiya Synthetic resin from spray cans and got a very good mirror finish. Howevere, I also used it in my airbrush for incurved areas where the fierce spray of a rattle can tende to overload the model. Although I cleaned the airbrush very very thoroughly, the nozzle blocked in later use and I had to replace it. Even reaming did not clear it.


I concluded from that cellulose thinners (the solvent) didn't like my AB,although it is a Harder and Steinbeck of good quality.

[Guest]

Sure - its a fantasy flying ship from the Magic: The Gathering mythos. I used some concept art and card images, then built the mesh in 3D Studio MAX and have been printing it on a 3D printer. You can see a few pictures of the model in progress and the digital render here: http://www.3dprintingforum.org/threads/3267-SkyShip-Weatherlight
The whole assembly is actually a gift for my local game shop, hence why I am pulling out all the stops to try and make it look good. It doesn't have to look professional or factory-made, but I'm trying to at least make it not look "stupid".

Crivens!

[Guest]

Rattle can is my vote, am following this new trend of 3DS Max and 3D printers, it really is the future! 3DS isn't for everyone (major understatement here!) and requires a huge input of time and dedication to master, but before too long, I can see folks selling the data to feed into your own 3D printer to build your own kit! Just think, a Miles Magister, or Avro Anson - no-one is gonna mass produce a quality kit of these kinds of 'plane, but with this tech, it'll be a reality one day. Good work, by the way hunterjwizard!

[Guest]

Crivens!

I haven't heard "crivens" for many years. Another one I like is "Jings". You've made my day.

[Guest]

3DS doesn't require any more time or effort to master than any other 3D program. Trust me, having both taught and learned several!


The problem is everyone goes in to 3D design looking for a shortcut or an easy answer. There are none of these. Whatever 3D program you use, expect to spend a ton of time learning it. Surprisingly, the learning curve for 3DS is considerably lower than, say, some piece of garbage like blender(I won't even dignify that trash with a capitol letter). And while Google Schechup is certainly easier to begin, it's actual modeling functionality falls flat.


If you want to make really neat objects quickly and easily, 3D Studio MAX is your best friend. Once you learn how, anyway.

[Guest]

Thank you for the warm welcome and kind responses!
So I do happen to have a full-sized compressor, can you elaborate a bit on what you mean by a "baby spray gun"? I know I can find things like automotive spray guns pretty inexpensively over here. If it'd do a better job than rattle cans I may invest.


I'm also curious what types of paint I can use in these guns. I bought a starter pack of Testers airgun paints, but I'm going to want a bit more variety in color. My local craft shop has a wide variety of standard Testers-brand colors but I don't know if I can put them in a gun.

Sorry, I didn't see this, I'm one of those that needs a "quote post" so I can see in the notifications if there is a reply...


I have a Iwata RG3 spray gun, its smaller than an an Automotive or full size one and it uses less air. It seems to make more sense for smaller jobs like modelling.


Please look on you tube for Budzik (I think its Paul) and look at his videos. all are 1st class and there is one in particular that will show you all about why you should prime and paint bigger areas with a spray gun.

[Guest]

I haven't heard "crivens" for many years. Another one I like is "Jings". You've made my day.

Help ma boab.


Oor Wullie and The Broons were a staple read of mine when I wis a bairn.

[Guest]

I used Tamiya Synthetic resin from spray cans and got a very good mirror finish. Howevere, I also used it in my airbrush for incurved areas where the fierce spray of a rattle can tende to overload the model. Although I cleaned the airbrush very very thoroughly, the nozzle blocked in later use and I had to replace it. Even reaming did not clear it.
I concluded from that cellulose thinners (the solvent) didn't like my AB,although it is a Harder and Steinbeck of good quality.

I have been using Cellulose thinners through mine and its ok. Does yours have the triple seal? I think they are Nylon? what happened to the brush? did it stop drawing paint or something?

[Guest]

I have been using Cellulose thinners through mine and its ok. Does yours have the triple seal? I think they are Nylon? what happened to the brush? did it stop drawing paint or something?

Air came out but the paint was too thick in the nozzle but normal in the bottle (Vallejo Model Air). I got worms. I reamed the nozzle - no help. My AB is by Harder and Steenbeck, CR Plus, 0.4 mm nozzle. I think it has good quality seals but I don't know about triple seals.

[Guest]

Air came out but the paint was too thick in the nozzle but normal in the bottle (Vallejo Model Air). I got worms. I reamed the nozzle - no help. My AB is by Harder and Steenbeck, CR Plus, 0.4 mm nozzle. I think it has good quality seals but I don't know about triple seals.

that's strange. I used a 0.2 nozzle with model air but it does need thinning at that nozzle size. id stick with proper brand thinners and maybe use the cellulose if you need deep cleaning?

[Guest]

I haven't heard "crivens" for many years. Another one I like is "Jings". You've made my day.

Showing my age Steve! Memories of Oor Wullie in the Sunday Post!

[Guest]

Welcome to the forum, that is going to look awesome.