What Are The Essentials For Airbrushing?

[Guest]

OK, so I've finally bought a half-decent airbrush set up - Iwata Neo, a compressor (AS189 because it boasted a moisture trap which the cheaper 186 doesn't), a 3 metre braided hose and a cleaning station with tools and brushes.


I will be buying a spray booth, but are there any other must-haves for a beginner?


I'll be using acrylics.

[Guest]

I use tamiya acrylics and use a big bottle of ipa for thinning and cleaning it's fairly cheap on e bay I think you have it covered


Roger

[Guest]

Thanks. Should have said I have IPA, paint thinners and flow improver type stuff.

[Guest]

You will most likely get different answers equaling the number of responses you get.


As for me, my advice would be this: Whatever brand of paint(s) you use, make sure you have the same brand of thinner(s) on hand. Each manufacturer has their own formulation for thinner and in my experience, is pretty much guaranteed to work.


And the one essential that many people forget to mention is PRACTICE! Each brand of paint will behave differently, and many times bottles of the same brand will be different in viscosity.


Also, depending on the humidity levels is your area, an additional moisture trap wouldn't be a bad idea.

[Alan 45]

ER don't use a brush !

[Guest]

Patience! From remembering my first faltering steps, practicing, time & experience are the keys to it - no different to learning any new skill really.


One other thing to bear in mind; airbrushes are precision instruments & provided a reasonable regime of cleaning & care is adhered to, the most common problems are down to the paint, not the machine. It's the greatest variable, so don't be afraid to test out different mixes & degrees of consistency until you find the one that works best for you

[Gern]

A good supply of ordinary things:


Airbrush cleaner (There's loads of opinions about which is best. I use mainly common-or-garden methylated spirits, but I have a couple of other types I use when giving the A/B a good clean)


Paper towels


Airbrush cleaner


Cotton buds


Airbrush cleaner.


Cocktail sticks


Airbrush cleaner


Some way of holding parts while you spray them and while they dry (again, there's lots of different things you can use from simple crocodile clips, all sorts of clamps, bits of BlueTack on coffee stirrers, cocktail sticks stuck into holes on parts etc. etc.).


Airbrush cleaner


Somewhere safe to put sprayed parts while they dry (preferably covered if you want to minimise the risk of dust spoiling your paintwork).


Did I mention airbrush cleaner? Like Patrick says, airbrushes are precision instruments and the slightest speck of dirt or dried paint in the mechanism can cause endless problems when spraying - ask me how I know! 90% of the problems you could encounter with your A/B will be eliminated provided you keep it really, really clean and in good order. Check around for hints and tips on how to dismantle and clean the specific brush you have.

[BarryW]

I agree with those who advise practise and patience. Don't try to run before you can walk either. Fine mottle camo schemes for instance are something you cannot expect to master early on!


I really would suggest using an airbrush ready paint as it will reduce the number of variables you need to deal with. Vallejo Model Air or AK Interactive acrylics are both good paints that can be used without thinning or just with a little thinning depending on your set up and local atmospheric conditions.


Well done for opting for a decent system by the way. What size needle set do you have? If under 0.3 you may find it more difficult to master.


One other suggestion. Subscribe to Flory Models for £3 per month (with no minimum period) and study their airbrush tutorials. They are outstanding and take you right through from basics to more advanced airbrushing.

[Robert1968]

Agree with the guys when it comes to cleaning and a certain patience when cleaning A/b ( I've owned the Neo in the past )


When you come to cleaning and stripping the A/b always when you come to taking out the needle draw it forward from the A/B never backwards. The needle will hold dried paint that even you can't see. When drawing it backwards you will put more dirt in your A/b so always draw forward.


When putting the needle back in the A/ b do this the same way ( i.e carefully but from the rear of the A/b.


This will push out any debris still not cleaned.


Once all the cleaning solutions are used I always give a good rinse with sterile water ( I use cooled boiled water that's in a bottle with a filter in case theres muck in your kettle) as this takes away the cleaning solutions


Lots of kitchen towel to dry everything and away you go again to spray


I normally do a strip down every 6/7 times I've used the A/b ( own choice)


You may also like to get some A/b lubricant from eBay ( it's cheap and it will last ages.( you only need a small drop


I lube the A/b internals once every other month, keeps everything as new ( my choice ) and if your not using the A/b for lengthy times keeps it all working nicely


Hope this helps


Robert

[Guest]

Thanks for all the tips - very helpful. I've got some old models and scrap plastic to practise on.


BarryW, the needle is 0.35, which I understand is a good size for most modelling applications. I'll have a look at Flory, although Youtube is awash with tutorials and reviews.


I'm just waiting for Mr. Postman now.

[Guest]

I suggest you get a quick release coupling for your airhose (unless the AB has got it already). This is a two part item that goes on to the end of the airhose as it connects to the AB:


https://www.everythingairbrush.com/airbrushing-accessories/hoses-adaptors.html


Everythingairbrush are very helpful. When connected, you pull it apart to disconnect the AB but keep the pressure in the compressor. This is useful for detaching the AB for part-stripping and cleaning, reassembling, recoupling and then shooting a final couple of mL of cleaner, or for continuing airbrushing with a different paint. A great timesaver.Also, get a set of those tiny bottle brushes for cleaning the tunnel of the AB. Everything Airbrush sell those too.


Remember to drain your compressor tank (assuming it has a drain) after each use, letting the remaining air go through the drain, to prevent the inside of the reservoir from rusting.


On the question of how to remove and replace the needle. Harder and Steenbeck (who made my AB) advised removing and inserting from the rear. This is to prevent the notches on the shaft of the needle at the non-pointy end from wearing the seals as the needle is inserted. However, as I am a slow worker and don't use my AB intensively, I remove from the front and insert from the back, to minimise paint being drawn in to the body of the AB.


I agree with all that has been written above, adding (as Gern mentioned) that when you are about to AB a part, think how you will be putting it down to dry. Holding a wet part is not the time to be thinking about this. If it has an unpainted or dried side, even putting it down in a certain position can be awkward. With a small part, often painted all around, it needs something to hold it while painting and when putting down. A needle, pin or similar between the part and a big handle of sorts, which can be put down right way up and without falling over, is needed. With my 1/16 Royal-Royce main body piece, which had many curves involving turning the part around about all three axes, I screwed a dowel to its underside, the other end of the dowel being on a piece of flat wood as a stand.


When cleaning the AB, be VERY careful not to loose parts (as also of course when assembling a model). Work over a (reasonably heavy) box with sides of about 2 inches wide and tuck your stomach forward as close to the bench/table as possible, which should be pulled up close. Put each part down inside the box. Take care not to bend the point of the needle. Beware tweezers. As with assembling a model, held too hard the spare part can hit the carpet monster several feet away. When moving your hand over the box, avoid your cuff catching and spilling bits.


Have lots of paper towel stuff in small pieces for wiping. I use good quality toilet paper which doesn't seem to shred fibres when wiping, but use cotton buds (unless you are wary of them shedding hairs which never seem to bother me) or a non-shedding cloth on a stick to clean the insides of the AB.


Avoid spraying in a cold place. If inevitable, warm the paint, AB and the part. If you spray during hours of darkness, use a good general light source (eg., fluorescent).


Not every part or type of paint coat needs an AB. A brush can often be used, or a spray can including for gloss (therefore avoiding the need to clean the AB).


Here are the main variables involved: make of paint; thinning (+ Flow Improver); air pressure (most people use about 20 PSI); distance between nozzle and part; how think a layer to add (start with light coats when using matt paint); AB cleanliness. 6 variables. If only one variable is wrong (eg., not enough pressure or too thick paint etc.), there are 6 opportunities for a session to go wrong. If two variables are wrong, there are 36 opportunities (I think) for the session to go wrong. No wonder it takes practice to get it right! For the average handy person, I guess it probably takes more hours of practice to get airbrushing right than learning to drive a car.


But don't get frustrated. Mastering an AB takes time, experiment and practice.


OK. I'm a pessimist. Its what makes me happy because everything turns out better than expected.

[Gern]

That's a neat trick you've pulled there Steve. I don't believe I've ever met a happy pessimist before!

[PhilJ]

A lot has been said, I learnt a initial amount by watching Paul Budzik and international scale modeller tutorial on YouTube, one thing I found useful and cheap for cleaning would be the dental brushes like the tepe type, you can buy a own brand 5 pack of different sizes for about £1.50 in a local supermarket.

[Guest]

That's a neat trick you've pulled there Steve. I don't believe I've ever met a happy pessimist before!

The other side of it is that I worry more about thing that are unlikely to happen, unlike my daughter. She leaves for the airport as late as possible and turns up at the check in desk at the airport minutes before it closes for her flight. It always works.

[Guest]

John just gave me a great deal on the portable spray booth, and he had a quick release coupling too.