Painting by airbrush, what is required...?

[BarryW]

Thank you for an in depth description


Can I asked why you moved on from the A S 186? The noise doesn't really bother me, just looking to buy something which will suit my needs for years to come.


When it comes to air brushes is there massive differences in quality, design and purpose? Are some more difficult to use than others?


Never heard of Vallejo paints before, then again it's over 25 years since I've built any plastic kit. Is this paint enamel? Cleaning out the airbrush is a pain staking task?

Here is the link to the AS186 in John's shop, he gives a great service, it is bundled with a cheap airbrush, a Chinese knock off but I would get the a/b and just use it for basic jobs like varnishing and get a H&S as a main a/b.  I started that way and I still use the hose that came with the bundle.    My AS186 gave up the ghost after nearly 4 years of good use and sprang a leak.  I debated whether to get another 186 or pay more for one a bit quieter that pumps air into the tank faster, I just decided on the latter.   It was not essential to upgrade, after all £80 for a compressor that lasts nearly four years is good value.  http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/airb...86-bundle.html


As for paints, as Steve says there is a lot of debate between acrylic and enamel.   I am not a fan of enamel myself but there is some truth in Steve's comments about acrylic.  I recommend using a good primer (Stynylrex) sprayed onto a clean surface (I clean with i.p.a.) and leave it for at least 24 hours before any masking.  Acryilic paint and primer needs time to cure.  Do that and you wont get any paint lifting problems with acrylic.


As for Vallejo, they are one of the more popular acrylic brands and are excellent.  A link to them in John's shop:

http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/model-air.html

You will find that they do a lot of paint ranges, Model Colour for the hairy sticks plus specialist ranges for Gaming etc.  Here is a link to their website:

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/

I found the Humbrol acrylics to be of very poor quality when I returned to modelling about 4/5 years ago and was not keen to use enamels.  I find acrylics easy to clean up with water and i.p.a. from an airbrush.


There are products like flow imrover to help stop needle tip drying.


There are lots of tutorial videos on YouTube on spraying but what I found of more use were the tutorials and other materials on Flory Models website.  This is a paid for site at £3 per month with no lock-in.  You could subscribe for just a month if you want and go through all their tutorials and other resources.  I did so and chose to remain subscribed as they are a brilliant resource.   here is a link: http://www.florymodels.co.uk/today/?SSLoginOk=true

[Guest]

yep no discernible Smell or nasty fumes when airbrushing, no nasty clean up afterwards with turps or whatever you need when using acrylics. can use plain water to clean the brush if all else fails.

I used aerosols back in the 80 s to paint some of my models. Pretty sure some were cellulose, the fumes never bothered me, though I wirked in a well ventilated area.


Are acrylic paints cheaper overall than enamel?

[Guest]

There is no financial advantage in buying acrylics over enamels. In fact when you add certain products such as airbrush cleaner, flow enhancer it begins to be considerably more expensive to use acrylics over enamels.


I use enamels, thinned with white spirit which is cheap as chips.


However, if smell isn't a problem I would recommend you try either Tamiya acrylics or Mr Hobby Aqueous & thin either or both with cellulose thinner.


You'll avoid all the typical problems associated with using acrylics (clogging, tip dry etc) and get a beautifully smooth finish. You'll also not need to use primer because the use of the cellulose will mean the paint grips perfectly.

[John]

I'm expecting a delivery of compressors next week, both the 186 and the 189 now come with a cooling fan on the back, I don't know how noisy they are, hopefully they will be quite.

[Guest]

Hi Folks, well after 16 years away from the hobby I'm looking at getting set up with an airbrush. The inevitable question of where to start but the advice and information on this thread is great!


Cheers

[BarryW]

There is no financial advantage in buying acrylics over enamels. In fact when you add certain products such as airbrush cleaner, flow enhancer it begins to be considerably more expensive to use acrylics over enamels.


I use enamels, thinned with white spirit which is cheap as chips.


However, if smell isn't a problem I would recommend you try either Tamiya acrylics or Mr Hobby Aqueous & thin either or both with cellulose thinner.


You'll avoid all the typical problems associated with using acrylics (clogging, tip dry etc) and get a beautifully smooth finish. You'll also not need to use primer because the use of the cellulose will mean the paint grips perfectly.

I should add that the use of primer is not just to make sure acrylics grip.  It is also to show up flaws in the build to enable corrective action while also providing a consistent basis on which to apply your top coat.  The latter is particularly important when using different materials plastic alongside p.e. and/or resin.  In any case you should always use a primer when applying metallics of whatever type as these really emphasise build flaws.

[stona]

As far as noise goes, my spray booth includes a big old snail fan which shifts air at the rate of 355m3/hr and it is definitely louder than my compressor which isn't running continually anyway.


Neither are exactly deafening, though they do serve as an excuse not to hear SWMBO calling from the kitchen


Cheers


Steve

[Steve Brodie]

Neither are exactly deafening, though they do serve as an excuse not to hear SWMBO calling from the kitchen


Cheers


Steve

Hahaha to true xD , though i spray in the utility, god send for a constant supply of running water to clean the brush, Downside SWMBO can actually pop her head through the archway from the kitchen