Sticky SMS airbrush

[Guest]

I thoroughly stripped and cleaned my H&S Ultra yesterday, and was surprised how the tiniest deposit on any of the components leads to airbrushing hell! Using Tamiya yellow cap thinners on a cotton bud revealed some visible stains (that X20a thinners did not) on what looked to be a squeaky clean needle. Also, I very carefull reamed the nozzle which revealed some almost microscopic particles on the edge of the reamer. I did all of this as I wasn't happy with the shape of the spray pattern, when spraying water through it. Once his had been done, it all worked fine. On a side note, where do folks stand on Super lube? I have a concern about oil polluting the paint and preventing it from adhering to the surface, but maybe I worry too much!

Never used it, I probably would have if I'd gotten some free with a brush but i'm the sort that doesn't like to pay for something you don't necessarily need and when I got my Iwata I remember thinking i'll see how it goes and get some if I feel it'll be useful, after several years of use with a thorough clean after nothing has ever been sticky in operation, so if you don't think you need it, you probably don't.
I clean my brush like this after every session, (I really should do a new video on this process now I have better video and audio).

I had a cheap 3 in 1 brush prior to this, the plunger would occassionally stick like mentioned above, but only the air so I never worried about it much, just popped it up with my finger.

[Guest]

If it does you can remove it and clean it, you will see 2 small holes, you will need to get something in them to unscrew it.

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Yes, thanks John, this is the bit I was referring to, I had a cheap chinese 3 in 1 where this portion would stick but it's only the air, remember the paint won't spray out unless the needle is drawn back.

[stillp]

Do you use a lid on the paint cup? If so, be sure that the little vent hole is completely clear.

No, I wasn't using the cap John.

If it's the air plunger that's not popping up snappily odds are the rubber o ring around the air inlet has slightly swollen, remove the needle and pop the trigger out, clean and lubricate the lower part of the plunger and refit.

Yes, I think it's the air valve sticking. What to lubricate it with? It seems to have traces of a very light grease on it.

I thoroughly stripped and cleaned my H&S Ultra yesterday, and was surprised how the tiniest deposit on any of the components leads to airbrushing hell! Using Tamiya yellow cap thinners on a cotton bud revealed some visible stains (that X20a thinners did not) on what looked to be a squeaky clean needle. Also, I very carefull reamed the nozzle which revealed some almost microscopic particles on the edge of the reamer. I did all of this as I wasn't happy with the shape of the spray pattern, when spraying water through it. Once his had been done, it all worked fine. On a side note, where do folks stand on Super lube? I have a concern about oil polluting the paint and preventing it from adhering to the surface, but maybe I worry too much!

I've used X20A, and two different brands of airbrush cleaner, as well as the reamer. Not familiar with Super Lube - do you sell it John?

Nearly a year use out of it and not needed to change the needle and nozzle is good, if you remove the bit the hose connects to does the pin push in without sticking?

Has it really been that long? I've only painted about 4 models in all that time... Yes, that pin pushes in easily and more important pops back out smartly, so I think that narrows down the problem to the brass rod under the trigger that operated the air valve. I'll try a smear of oil on the O-ring that seals that part.

Thanks all.

Pete

[stillp]

My H&S airbrush did that once when both it and I was new at airbrushing and it was because I'd attempted to spray a too think primer without thinner through a 0.2 nozzle. Some kind of issue then happened when I tried back flushing to solve the problem, but instead caused primer to end up all the way back in the handle, the piece that you're holding. On the way back some paint managed to get stuck on the trigger mechanism which made it wonky.

Lesson learned - don't back flush a H&S airbrush when it's jammed with too thick primer.

It's easy to remove the trigger on most airbrushes. On mine I just unscrew everything on the rear end and out comes the whole mechanism. To assemble just do everything in reverse.

It sounds like you've tested everything that has to do with normal operation so perhaps you've got some paint inside the mechanism and handle like I did?

Jens, there was some dried paint in the body, but not now.

Pete

[stillp]

I had a similiar problem when i first used my Iwata Eclipse, first time out of box and did the same, now i knew it wasnt likely to be the airbrush as having been checked before it left the factory, BUT didnt stop me stripping it down and putting back together, only to still be doing the same, put old airbrush back on and no issues. Time to put my expensive Kepner Tregoe ( http://www.kepner-tregoe.com/about-kt/) Problem theology to work ; what has changed or is different. So the only thing i added in the chain between airbrush and compressor was a quick release valve - surely, that cant be it - removed valve and after a couple of clicks on the trigger - problem gone. Dunno why the quick release valve works okay on the chepo brush, but it does.

Funny you should say that - I'd added a quick-release connector as well, but removing it doesn't make any difference to the sticking.

Pete