Compressor - Sparmax AC-27 Achieve vs. TC-610H

[stillp]

According to the page at https://airbrushes.com/product_info....ducts_id=21998
"If you , thoroughly clean the airbrush using the flush and back-flush procedure, it will prevent the nozzle becoming clogged so that you will not need to remove it".
Oh yeah???

[Guest]

According to the page at https://airbrushes.com/product_info....ducts_id=21998
"If you , thoroughly clean the airbrush using the flush and back-flush procedure, it will prevent the nozzle becoming clogged so that you will not need to remove it".
Oh yeah???

That might be true. I don't/can't backflush my H&S Ultra by design, but when I've done it anyway it's made a mess inside the trigger once and that was a pain to clean...
Iwata is probably designed to be cleaned this way - and IF it works as well as a full teardown then it's a much faster way of cleaning!

Can Iwata users confirm this?

[Guest]

That might be true. I don't/can't backflush my H&S Ultra by design, but when I've done it anyway it's made a mess inside the trigger once and that was a pain to clean...
Iwata is probably designed to be cleaned this way - and IF it works as well as a full teardown then it's a much faster way of cleaning!

Can Iwata users confirm this?

I can.

[Guest]

I can.

Cheers!

So - when you nozzle is clogged, is it still a simple task to remove the nozzle and clean it like you do on the H&S airbrushes? (apart from the fact that you need a tool - and not using the supplied tool... )

Does the backflushing malarkey work as well with stubborn acrylics like AMMO of Mig as it does with fantastic paints like Tamiya and MRP?

This might mean that Iwata is back on the menu when a purchase is made, but I'd want to try one first before I part with my money.

[Guest]

Cheers!

So - when you nozzle is clogged, is it still a simple task to remove the nozzle and clean it like you do on the H&S airbrushes? (apart from the fact that you need a tool - and not using the supplied tool... )

Does the backflushing malarkey work as well with stubborn acrylics like AMMO of Mig as it does with fantastic paints like Tamiya and MRP?

This might mean that Iwata is back on the menu when a purchase is made, but I'd want to try one first before I part with my money.

Yes and yes. It is no harder in my opinion. (Pardon the pun)
John

[Guest]

Mmmm, I cannot imagine a scenario - using conventional acrylic airbrush paints - where I wouldn't want to closely inspect and clean the nozzle. The chances of some paint drying, or even (especially?) starting to dry, is so high as to be almost a certainty! Unless, of course, you thin it and add flow improver, even then, keep an eye on it.
But then, I've never used an iwata...

[Guest]

I use Gunze, and have never had a problem even in hot Australia weather

[Guest]

I use Gunze, and have never had a problem even in hot Australia weather

is that "Mr Colour" or "Mr Hobby"?

[Guest]

is that "Mr Colour" or "Mr Hobby"?

Mr Hobby. I love the stuff and have never had any issues with it in by AB

[Guest]

Mr Hobby. I love the stuff and have never had any issues with it in by AB

I take it that's the true acrylic one (I.e. No lacquer or IPA in it) well, if it works, then that is all that matters! There seem to be so many parameters determining whether or not we're going to get a good, trouble free finish, airbrush quality / make, thinning ratio, type of thinners etc. It's a bit of a minefield for newcomers!

[Guest]

I bought a Sparmax TC-610H today after too much thinking. Well, not about the compressor because I pretty much decided on this one after reading your replies, but the airbrush dragged me down in the unresolved H&S vs. Iwata discussion...

But this is how it ended and I thank all of you for helping me to decide!