Ultra-sonic cleaning baths

[Guest]

Hi guys (and gals),

I have recently started using an airbrush to extend my modelling capabilities and am loving the effects I can produce with it, but I am having a slight "problem" when it comes to cleaning the brush properly without completely disassembling and getting right inside it.

Currently to clean it I am running thinners through the gun to thin down/get rid of excess paint and then putting brush cleaner through to remove the rest, this does the trick alright, but I still have to disassemble it to get the needle, nozzle and paint cup sparkling again. (My airbrush is a Foxhunter AS-186)

Does anybody use an ultra-sonic cleaner and, if so, what would you recommend, if at all, to get?

Apologies for multiple questions, but I am a total novice when it comes to airbrushing

[BarryW]

When you do a colour change, run a couple of cupfulls of the appropriate cleaner through the brush after wiping down the inside with some kitchen roll wetted with cleaner. It is also a good idea to use a cotton bud, or two, to get at less accessible places before spraying the cleaner. You are then ready to spray the next colour.

Every now and again, perhaps at the end of a session or, as I do, at the end of a project, it is necessary to strip clean the airbrush. Do the cleaning as per the colour change, then strip it giving each part some individual attention. Then, not necessarily every time, put the parts into a sonic cleaning bath and run the programme. I often let it soak overnight in the bath, giving it a blast when I put it in and another just before I take it out. I also lubricate the airbrush after a sonic bath.

I would suggest doing an online search and read reviews and select one based on your budget and what the reviews say. Amazon is a good place to start.

[Dave Ward]

James,
I only use acrylics through my airbrush ( Iwata Neo ), I blow through the brush with water, then remove the nozzle cap, clean it , ensure the nozzle is clean. I wipe the inside of the cup ( paper towel ), the reassemble - I then blow through again, water with a few drops of washing up liquid added.
Occasionally, though, after a bad paint day, I do strip the a/b right down, and use an Ultrasonic bath to deep clean it. I got my UB from Aldi, many years ago - I don't think you need a fancy make, or model. It's surprising how much dirt you can get out! I use warm water, with liquid soap, then rinse with clean water after. I also use the UB for cleaning my glasses, and getting dirt out of stainless steel watch bands!
Dave

[JR]

Morning and welcome James.
Like Dave I use my SC for the same uses, and clean the AB the same way.

There are plenty to choose from from cheap to the expensive.
I went for a

JAMES PRODUCTS ULTRA-7000 Ultrasonic Cleaner with Digital Timer 750ml

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Ultrasonic Cleaner with Digital Timer 750ml -
ULTRA-7000
















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Image is for illustrative purposes only. Please refer to product description.

Manufacturer:JAMES PRODUCTS
Manufacturer Part No:ULTRA-7000
Order Code:SA02320
Product Range James Products - Ultrasonic Cleaners
Also Known As:GTIN UPC EAN: 5060126950011
Technical Datasheet: ULTRA-7000 Datasheet
Catalogue page: CPCC/1767
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Around £32
Have it filled either with an air brush cleaner or some water and a drop of washing up liquid.
Would never be with out one now. The timer is great
John.

[Mr Bowcat]

Just a word of warning, ultrasonics can take the plating off of metal parts.

I used to use my US to clean the cylinder from my black powder revolver until this exact thing happened.

[Guest]

Personally I strip clean my old Olympos after every colour, mainly to ensure no contamination and because there can be long gaps between painting sessions. Once you get in to a rhythm it doesn't take more than 10mins. I might also be going from enamel to acrylic, depending on the colour or application.

I like Barry's idea of a 'service' at the end of a project and might consider an ultrasonic cleaner for this.

[Guest]

Personally I strip clean my old Olympos after every colour, mainly to ensure no contamination and because there can be long gaps between painting sessions. Once you get in to a rhythm it doesn't take more than 10mins. I might also be going from enamel to acrylic, depending on the colour or application.

I like Barry's idea of a 'service' at the end of a project and might consider an ultrasonic cleaner for this.

At the moment I am only using Tamiya Acrylic paints, but am keen to experiment with Vallejo, and possibly move onto using Humbrol or Revell

[stillp]

Just a word of warning, ultrasonics can take the plating off of metal parts.

Agreed. I bought one to clean my watch bracelet, which was black, but the blacking went rather patchy. I haven't dared put the airbrush in it yet! It's a digital controlled 50W/2 litre one I found online for £25 delivered. Useful for carburettor parts as well!

My airbrush is a Foxhunter AS-186

James, the AS-186 is the compressor, not the airbrush. If your airbrush came with the compressor then it's presumably one of the generic Chinese ones, which are not the best, but a hell of a lot cheaper than an Iwata or Harder & Steenbeck.
I use an H & S, and strip it after each session.

Pete

[Guest]

At the moment I am only using Tamiya Acrylic paints, but am keen to experiment with Vallejo, and possibly move onto using Humbrol or Revell

I'm having a few issues getting Humbrol acrylics to go through the airbrush cleanly at the minute. The gloss paints also do not adhere without a primer.
I haven't tried them, but I gather the Vallejo airbrush ready paints are the business.

[JR]

I'm having a few issues getting Humbrol acrylics to go through the airbrush cleanly at the minute. The gloss paints also do not adhere without a primer.
I haven't tried them, but I gather the Vallejo airbrush ready paints are the business.

I've never used Humbrol Chris, only ever use A Mig or Vallejo, using both with a 1in 10 drop of Vallejo flow improver gives a mostly trouble free session. Most problems with acrylics I think are caused by crud debris falling in the paint container from the paint bottle as you load..

Using a weak solution of washing up liquid / water or 30% isopropyl / water mix will shift most Acrylic leftovers

Just a word of warning, ultrasonics can take the plating off of metal parts.

I used to use my US to clean the cylinder from my black powder revolver until this exact thing happened. :smiling3:

Bob to be fair Its not the cleaner that causes problems, it's in the liquid that's used. What did you have in it ? something quite corrosive to cause that amount of damage to your revolver, no doubt a worrying time !
Have you use it since.

John.

[BarryW]

At the moment I am only using Tamiya Acrylic paints, but am keen to experiment with Vallejo, and possibly move onto using Humbrol or Revell

Humbrol are not great paints. Tamiya are well regarded and Vallejo Model Air are very good but are best used with a needle of 0.3 or larger. 0.2 can block. I have never used Revell but, from what I have heard, there is nothing particular to recommend them.

If I was you I would start with Vallejo MA as you will find these easy to use as they need little or no thinning. Experiment and peactise with them a lot before using them on a model.
Some tips to get the best from them:
Wash the model first to get rid of finger and release grease. I wipe thoroughly with I.p.a.
Use a primer (not Vallejos). I would suggest Stynylrez. This will highlight build flaws so you can deal with them before laying down a base coat and it also gives some ‘grip’ for the paint which can be fragile.
Let every coat cure, not just dry, for at least 24 hours before apply the next colour or certainly before masking over. Water based acrylic can be fragile and be worn away or torn off with masking of not fully cured.
Use very light coats, do not flood.

Finally - after the airbrush and compressor, get an extraction spray booth that vents outside. When you do then try MRP paint, these are the best airbrush paints that you can buy but they smell! Once you use MRP you won’t go back to Vallejo.

[Mr Bowcat]

I've never used Humbrol Chris, only ever use A Mig or Vallejo, using both with a 1in 10 drop of Vallejo flow improver gives a mostly trouble free session. Most problems with acrylics I think are caused by crud debris falling in the paint container from the paint bottle as you load..

Using a weak solution of washing up liquid / water or 30% isopropyl / water mix will shift most Acrylic leftovers





Bob to be fair Its not the cleaner that causes problems, it's in the liquid that's used. What did you have in it ? something quite corrosive to cause that amount of damage to your revolver, no doubt a worrying time !
Have you use it since.

John.

John,

I also have the Ultra 7000 and bought the Sea Clean 2 with it that was recommended. I doubt it's too corrosive as designed for jewellery.

The function of the firearm hasn't been impaired, just half the cylinder is now a different colour to the other half.

Cheers

B

[Tim Marlow]

Surface erosion from sonication is more marked at lower frequencies. Higher frequencies even out the power delivery so cause less local damage. Position of the item being cleaned in the tank can also cause issues, so try to get it centrally placed......
I’ve used them on and off at work, but not for some years. They are really good for cell lysis in biotechnology assay work.
Didn’t realise they cleaned by plasma jet until I looked it up though...apparently the surface is hit with a microscopic plasma jet and raise to 5000 Deg C.

[JR]

John,

I also have the Ultra 7000 and bought the Sea Clean 2 with it that was recommended. I doubt it's too corrosive as designed for jewellery.

The function of the firearm hasn't been impaired, just half the cylinder is now a different colour to the other half. :smiling3:

Cheers

B

Bob ,two tone colours are very in vouge this year I'm told ! I did know that cheaper seals on ABs can suffer with some the amonia based cleaners..

Surface erosion from sonication is more marked at lower frequencies. Higher frequencies even out the power delivery so cause less local damage. Position of the item being cleaned in the tank can also cause issues, so try to get it centrally placed......
I’ve used them on and off at work, but not for some years. They are really good for cell lysis in biotechnology assay work.
Didn’t realise they cleaned by plasma jet until I looked it up though...apparently the surface is hit with a microscopic plasma jet and raise to 5000 Deg C.

My word having read what Tim posted I shall be aware. Fascinating stuff Tim thanks .
John.

[Guest]

Interesting to read that ultrasonic cleaning can be used successfully for airbrushes. It seems a different story with spray guns, with SATA in particular stating "Ultrasonic cleaning systems are under no circumstances suitable for spray gun cleaning. The high-frequency ultrasonic waves can affect the nozzle drillings and cause damage on the spray gun surface."

Maybe it's more the chemicals used rather than the process, as stated above, but at least it's good to know that with care it is an option.