Airbrush query...

[Steven000]

I flush through with water and then clean gently with a bit of alcohol and a used brush in the end, never had any problems.

The WD-40 sounds like a good tip, haven't yet tested it, but WD-40 is great on metal but might eat rubber sealings in the long run (petroleum based product)

Cheers, Steven

[Steve Jones]

I throw the airbrush away and open up a new one. Cleaning things is not in my DNA. I thought a mop was a wig for Rastafarian until the Mrs said you clean floors with it. What do I know??? :smiling::loudly-crying::smiling6:

[Guest]

I'm getting the jitters at the WD40 suggestion. Most painters wouldn't even let it in the building never mind near their gun, due to its reputation for causing paint issues.

To be fair dub dee has never caused me any problems, even when painting the odd side job in my mates workshop that's covered in the stuff, but to many painters it's viewed as the very essence of the devil :smiling5:

[stillp]

to many painters it's viewed as the very essence of the devil :smiling5:

That's because they think it contains silicones, which it doesn't. It cleans off easily with ordinary panel wipes.
Pete

[Guest]

I was given a tip for catching smoothhounds whilst fishiing on the solent once, and that was to douse my bait in WD40. Apparently it contains fish oils that are irresistible.

I use a drop to free up the trigger, but wouldn't want it in the paintline at all.

[stillp]

I was given a tip for catching smoothhounds whilst fishiing on the solent once, and that was to douse my bait in WD40. Apparently it contains fish oils that are irresistible.

Did it work?

I use a drop to free up the trigger, but wouldn't want it in the paintline at all.

Nor me.

Pete

[Guest]

Did it work?

Dunno. Never tried it. Too far fetched for me, plus the source wasn’t exactly catching the most fish, if you get my drift.

[Guest]

That's because they think it contains silicones, which it doesn't. It cleans off easily with ordinary panel wipes.
Pete

They are a suspicious and superstitious bunch.

Personally I've had more issues with deodorant, perfume & conditioners than I've ever had with WD40.

We once had to pretty much decontaminate the paint mixing room after a visitor wearing particularly strong perfume came in. Nothing but fish eyes in all the subsequent jobs!

[JR]

John, I read in the infinity manual that only certain parts should be put in a US cleaner.

Is that something I should pay attention to (if I get one) or is it not an issue?

I've been spraying mostly solvent/lacquer lately but the way this thing handles VJ that may change.

Andy.
Hi , I've had my Ultra 4 years and never had to change any seals. When I strip it down as with the Infinity, I only put the cup, needle assy ( stripped ) and the needle in the tank. I put the head end into the tank and let the fluid get inside the threads, press the trigger and blow some air through, then clean. Leave the other bits in the tank , them check etc and reassemble.
I only use acrylics, and most modern ab seals are not effected by the cleaners .

[JR]

They are a suspicious and superstitious bunch.

Personally I've had more issues with deodorant, perfume & conditioners than I've ever had with WD40.

We once had to pretty much decontaminate the paint mixing room after a visitor wearing particularly strong perfume came in. Nothing but fish eyes in all the subsequent jobs!

Andy,
I had a rep come into the workshop with his area manager waving an aerosol tin of slip for the planner. " This is what you need " he said, " Really" said I , at this stage concerned that is was silicone, based , which of course it was . After telling him to remove it and the reasons why I didn't want to have to spend time trying to get the silicone out of the timber.
Yes the dreaded fish eye, the only way to carry on after much cleaning of the wood surface was a coat of French Polish as a sealant coat. Then carry on as usual .

[rtfoe]

Hi Paul,
I'd do the same as Steve, throw away and buy a new one. :tears-of-joy: Kidding aside I haven't thrown my 35year old Badger 150. It's a sucker...meaning it's not a gravity feed airbrush. Have taken it apart once a blue moon and only replaced the needle, nozzle tip through heavy handling while doing one of those blue moon sessions, I pushed the needle in very hard and cracked the tip of the nozzle. Also replaced the trigger because it got worn out... I pull to the left so perhaps I need re-alignment. :smiling5:

How did I get it to last this long? Well, with dilligent flushing of appropriate thinners for the relevant paints immediately after every change of paint and not letting paint sit and dry in the well. Sometimes I continue with the next color by changing the cups. Thinner loaded cutips and tiny cut sponges are used to wipe paint build ups on the crown and cup rings. I use tooth picks to eek out any stubborn remains. Wood is hard enough and yet soft enough not to damage polished metal that's why tooth picks are best for canopy clean ups if there is a paint creep under the masking.

For acrylics I use Windex window cleaners as it contains amonia to flush the airbrush. If I could pee into the cup I would. :tears-of-joy::tears-of-joy: But I rarely us acrylics...inks yes in the past for my artworks. Tammi paints has always been good to my airbrushing when I found that it wasn't true acrylics.

After these many years the 150 is now relegated to coating base colors and the occassional misting. It also does good spattering effects.

You only need to breakdown the parts when there is a major blockage or necessary replacements if you practise the quick clean methods I just explained but if you want to go the full Monty it's ok just be light with the handling.

Cheers,
Richard

[Guest]

Andy.
Hi , I've had my Ultra 4 years and never had to change any seals. When I strip it down as with the Infinity, I only put the cup, needle assy ( stripped ) and the needle in the tank. I put the head end into the tank and let the fluid get inside the threads, press the trigger and blow some air through, then clean. Leave the other bits in the tank , them check etc and reassemble.
I only use acrylics, and most modern ab seals are not effected by the cleaners .

Brilliant John, thanks.

Richard, that's an impressive amount of time! Some of my Iwata spray guns are still in daily service after 10 years of heavy use. My clearcoat gun has sprayed many thousands of cars in that time, so I'm hoping with similar care my new H&S airbrush should last at least as long.

[rtfoe]

Andy, you've got some great top of the line AB's and with your knowledge of spraying and maintenance they should last a lifetime.

Cheers,
Richard

[stillp]

I've got an ultrasonic cleaner, 50W ultrasonic + 50W heating, but I'm a bit wary of using it for the airbrush, after it stripped some of the black 'titanium' plating off my watch strap.
Pete

[colin m]

I thought the WD40 comment would raise a few eyebrows, as it did mine. The thing is, the idea came from a reliable source. It works. I don't do it every time, but my airbrush do have Teflon seals if that makes any difference..