Beginner airbrush advice please!

[lachontrack]

Hi all!

New modeller here. I’m mainly interested in 1/12 Model Bike Kits. I was given a lot of valuable advice from beowulf, but I was looking for any recommendations on all things airbrushing. Thanks in advance!

[Jim R]

Hi Lachlan
Use a spray booth extracting to the outside - hose out of a window, or a mask. If using lacquers I use both.
Buy a compressor. Those cans of compressed air are expensive and the pressure cannot be adjusted. Go for a compressor with a tank as it will give a more consistent pressure and the motor will not have to come on whenever the AB trigger is pressed. You will want to practice with your air brush and with a compressor the air is 'free' after the initial outlay. You'll be less likely to practice with expensive cans.
As for the airbrush itself. Go for a dual action with a 0.3mm needle. I reckon that is a good compromise between very fine work and covering larger areas. Which AB to buy? Price varies from a few pounds to several hundred pounds and modellers all have their own favourites.
The SM Shop has a selection of stuff and John's prices and service are good.
Jim

[lachontrack]

Hi Jim!

Thanks for your response. Are these booths available to buy pre-made, or is it a DIY job? I appreciate the advice regarding the airbrushing. Do you know of any decent models or brands for a first airbrush/compressors?

Cheers!

[Jim R]

Hi Lachlan
Booths are available from many sellers. A few different ones but THIS is from John.
This is a really popular compressor - many of us have one. It is available all over in slightly different forms. It has an air tank :thumb2:
As for the airbrush. Scroll through THESE 5 pages. There are bundles of the compressor, the hose and the airbrush. As I said go for a 0.3mm, dual action, top feed AB. OK the airbrushes are cheap ones but they are fine. They are less well engineered, have seals which are not as resistant to chemicals, the body of the AB is not chrome etc but they work OK. Many people turn out quality work with one. If you want to spend a lot then Iwata or Harder and Steenbeck are highly regarded.
Jim

[lachontrack]

Hi Lachlan
Booths are available from many sellers. A few different ones but THIS is from John.
This is a really popular compressor - many of us have one. It is available all over in slightly different forms. It has an air tank :thumb2:
As for the airbrush. Scroll through THESE 5 pages. There are bundles of the compressor, the hose and the airbrush. As I said go for a 0.3mm, dual action, top feed AB. OK the airbrushes are cheap ones but they are fine. They are less well engineered, have seals which are not as resistant to chemicals, the body of the AB is not chrome etc but they work OK. Many people turn out quality work with one. If you want to spend a lot then Iwata or Harder and Steenbeck are highly regarded.
Jim

Jim! Thank you so much for this, I appreciate it greatly! I just went on a shopping trip and picked up a kit along with some paints etc. I’m going to try spray cans on a basic kit and try brush painting the smaller parts with Tamiya paints. I bought primer and acrylic varnish, the kit is a Tamiya YZF-R1 in white and red. Do I need to prime every part that will be painted; including the small engine parts?

[Dave Ward]

Lachlan,
I've been using a AS 186 compressor for many years, with no problems, it's reasonably portable, and quiet, and will handle any airbrush for models. You can get them bundled with hose/airbrush, as on the SMS website detailed above!
The cheaper airbrushes are ideal for priming, and overall coats, and learning the basics of airbrush use, before moving on to a more expensive, more controllable a/b.
I live in a mid-floor flat, so smell ( or lack of ) is important, so I exclusively use water-based Acrylics - they don't smell & are easier to clean up.
As a rule I prime any part that is going to be painted, generally as a complete assembly. If you don't prime, at least wash the surface with warm soapy water & rinse, that will improve paint adhesion
Dave

[Guest]

Hi all!

New modeller here. I’m mainly interested in 1/12 Model Bike Kits. I was given a lot of valuable advice from beowulf, but I was looking for any recommendations on all things airbrushing. Thanks in advance!

This is my take. Lachlan

1/12. That is going to be quite big to your spray booth will have to take that into account.
The model bike about 3" 75mm at 1/12 5" 125mm long.
I use a Sparmax which I have checked & will take your bikes at 1/12. Very nice unit & has a
replaceable filter at about £7. Clever filter as it is concertinaed giving near twice the filter
area of the usual flat ones.

The fan is centrifugal, paddle wheel, which clears more than the propeller type at a lower
speed therefor less noisy

https:tongue-out3:/www.everythingairbrush.com/respirators-spray-booths/spray-booths/sparmax-spray-booth-with-exhaust-fan-pipe.html

You need a Face filter mask. I use this one. The criteria is to ensure you have the filters (replaceable) for the type of paints & other
media you are using. Do not go cheap as the filters are probably not the ones for you. The mask should also have a valve. Breathing
in through the filters & out via the valve which closes after breathing out

https/www.everythingairbrush.com/respirators-spray-booths/respirators/devilbiss-maintenance-free-half-mask-valuair-respirator.html

Compressor. Most of them come from China even most of the parts on the badged compressors. I have one of the cheapest which I have
now used for 7 years. Mine is twin piston, last longer, & a must a tank for the compressed air to be stored. You can use with out a tank
but the compressor will be working all the time. With a tank the compressor will fill up, motor off, turns on when a top up is required.
The tank will also give a better constant pressure.

The one I use a give away price. You can buy dearer but you will get the same compressed air from this or a very expensive one.
They are a bit noisy. If you want quiet then pay 4 times as much & you will need 6 times the space

https/www.everythingairbrush.com/compressors/as-series-compressors/ab-as196-twin-cylinder-mini-piston-type-on-demand-compressor-with-receiver-and-dual-switch-for-airbrushing.html

Airbrush. For some one as a first time user I would go for Harder & Steenbeck. I started with one & they are superb brushes. There are a number
of types basically all the same the more expensive as you go up the scale you get little addons. They are so easy to clean. They produce a
very nice finish. You will have to match the needle nozzle size with the paints you are going to use. 0.4 thicker paints 0.2 thinner but without information
on the paints cannot advise. I would stick with H & S or Iwata. Airbrushing is difficult enough when starting out. With either of these types you will
be cutting out a lot of problems as they are both well engineered brushes.

I use Iwata now but they are more difficult to clean but very nice brushes. I now use my Harder & Steenbeck for priming & varnis.

These are the H & S Brushes.

https/www.everythingairbrush.com/airbrushes/harder-steenbeck-airbrushes.html

Note all the above items I have used Everything Airbrush as a guide.

Other who are good suppliers of a lot of equipment are.

Of course you first port of call. Your very own Forum Shop here.
https/www.air-craft.net/ found very helpful
https://airbrushes.com/contact_us.php not so much

If you need advice on accessories cleaning etc just post another request & I am sure you will get advice. But first the essentials.

Best of luck.

Laurie

[lachontrack]

La

This is my take. Lachlan

1/12. That is going to be quite big to your spray booth will have to take that into account.
The model bike about 3" 75mm at 1/12 5" 125mm long.
I use a Sparmax which I have checked & will take your bikes at 1/12. Very nice unit & has a
replaceable filter at about £7. Clever filter as it is concertinaed giving near twice the filter
area of the usual flat ones.

The fan is centrifugal, paddle wheel, which clears more than the propeller type at a lower
speed therefor less noisy

https:tongue-out3:/www.everythingairbrush.com/respirators-spray-booths/spray-booths/sparmax-spray-booth-with-exhaust-fan-pipe.html

You need a Face filter mask. I use this one. The criteria is to ensure you have the filters (replaceable) for the type of paints & other
media you are using. Do not go cheap as the filters are probably not the ones for you. The mask should also have a valve. Breathing
in through the filters & out via the valve which closes after breathing out

https/www.everythingairbrush.com/respirators-spray-booths/respirators/devilbiss-maintenance-free-half-mask-valuair-respirator.html

Compressor. Most of them come from China even most of the parts on the badged compressors. I have one of the cheapest which I have
now used for 7 years. Mine is twin piston, last longer, & a must a tank for the compressed air to be stored. You can use with out a tank
but the compressor will be working all the time. With a tank the compressor will fill up, motor off, turns on when a top up is required.
The tank will also give a better constant pressure.

The one I use a give away price. You can buy dearer but you will get the same compressed air from this or a very expensive one.
They are a bit noisy. If you want quiet then pay 4 times as much & you will need 6 times the space

https/www.everythingairbrush.com/compressors/as-series-compressors/ab-as196-twin-cylinder-mini-piston-type-on-demand-compressor-with-receiver-and-dual-switch-for-airbrushing.html

Airbrush. For some one as a first time user I would go for Harder & Steenbeck. I started with one & they are superb brushes. There are a number
of types basically all the same the more expensive as you go up the scale you get little addons. They are so easy to clean. They produce a
very nice finish. You will have to match the needle nozzle size with the paints you are going to use. 0.4 thicker paints 0.2 thinner but without information
on the paints cannot advise. I would stick with H & S or Iwata. Airbrushing is difficult enough when starting out. With either of these types you will
be cutting out a lot of problems as they are both well engineered brushes.

I use Iwata now but they are more difficult to clean but very nice brushes. I now use my Harder & Steenbeck for priming & varnis.

These are the H & S Brushes.

https/www.everythingairbrush.com/airbrushes/harder-steenbeck-airbrushes.html

Note all the above items I have used Everything Airbrush as a guide.

Other who are good suppliers of a lot of equipment are.

Of course you first port of call. Your very own Forum Shop here.
https/www.air-craft.net/ found very helpful
https://airbrushes.com/contact_us.php not so much

If you need advice on accessories cleaning etc just post another request & I am sure you will get advice. But first the essentials.

Best of luck.

Laurie

Laurie! Thank you so much for such a thoughtful and helpful reply. I’ll definitely be taking all of these things into consideration! I feel hand brushing wastes a whole load more paint rather than airbrushing. I bought mainly Tamiya paints - what’s your preferred brand for airbrushing?

[lachontrack]

Thanks Dave! A lot of good advice there. So for example, you would assemble the engine block, then prime, and then paint?

[JR]

Welcome Lachlan.
Can't add to the advice given by the guys, but good luck, I would just say though, practice and practice before going near one of those bikes.
Looking fwd to seeing your work.

[Guest]

Laurie! Thank you so much for such a thoughtful and helpful reply. I’ll definitely be taking all of these things into consideration! I feel hand brushing wastes a whole load more paint rather than airbrushing. I bought mainly Tamiya paints - what’s your preferred brand for airbrushing?

Lachlon. Great Scottish name, I am a Stewart Surrey born but with grandad from the Shetlands & the other Glasgow.
I & both my sons have kilts & love to wear them.

Started with Vallejo Model Air which is a very nice paint & with a very wide range of colours.

Then tried Tamiya XF & X which are their acrylic range. The are far better than Vallejo harder & cure very quickly compared to Vallejo.
Their only draw back is their colour range is not wide. However I have become quite proficient in mixing colours.

If you use Tamiya then before using top up the bottle to the bottom of the neck with Tamiya X20 Thinners. This is a general recommendation
using Tamiya. Hand brushing you have to be a superman for that. Apart from say painting a figure they dry to quickly for hand painting.
You can use down to a 0.2 needle nozzle. My Tamiya brush I use a 0.35.

Best really get your airbrush & a pot of a number of acrylic types. John does a good few in the shop. You can then gauge your likes.
Tamiya is a very thin paint & does not tend to fill detail such as panel lines. There are lacquer types but to begin with it is my opinion
that acrylics are by far the best to start with & very less smelly.

Best primer, not Vallejo keep away it is a disaster area. It tends to peel & is not hard. Difficult to sand even after 3 days curing Also quite
a thick coat.

The best I have found is Stynylerez by Badger Air Brushes (also market under Ultimate Primer). I is a very forgiving primer & flattens well.
Dry within the hour. I have sanded after say 3 hours & it sands to a feather at the edge. very hard & adheres well. But wet & dry (wet) 1200 gauge
the plastic to give bite. You will need a 0.4 needle nozzle airbrushing at 25 to 30 PSI. Lot depends on temperature & humidity.

Like all things this is my advice so best to read the thoughts of others. By the way save plastic dring bottles & when you get your airbrush just
practice practice. Different PSI pressures close up 150mm away. Get to know your brush & paint.

Ah yes varnish. Gloss my favorite very forgiving & flattens well & is thin.Alclad 11 Lacquer Aqua Gloss Clear.
Matt Vallejo Acrylic & POLYURETHENE ( not just the acrylic type not as good)) 62.062.

Heck what a screed.

Laurie

[Dave Ward]

Lachlan,
I always try to assemble parts together that will be the same final colour. It obviously depends on the size of the parts. On a motorbike, I would assemble the cylinders & heads, as they're going to be pretty much the same colour. - I'd probably put in the spark plugs, as well, as they are easily detail painted later, and putting them in after painting, you can easily ruin a finish with glue! ( Been there, done that ). It may sound obvious, but look at all the instruction stages, you can get carried away and end up having to break bits apart, because they won't fit as a complete assembly.
Chromed plastic parts can be tricky ( scrape away the plating on glueing faces ), leave them off as long as possible - if you damage the finish, it's almost impossible to repair a small area, and you'd have to redo the entire component - not good. If the chrome looks a bit too bright, you can tone it down with a coat of gloss varnish, with just a drop of matt added to the mix. If in doubt, try that on the sprues, rather than the proper part.
Dave

[lachontrack]

Welcome Lachlan.
Can't add to the advice given by the guys, but good luck, I would just say though, practice and practice before going near one of those bikes.
Looking fwd to seeing your work.

Appreciated, John! Thanks for the kind words. I’ll be sure to keep a thread updated somewhere on my
progress.

[lachontrack]

Lachlon. Great Scottish name, I am a Stewart Surrey born but with grandad from the Shetlands & the other Glasgow.
I & both my sons have kilts & love to wear them.

Started with Vallejo Model Air which is a very nice paint & with a very wide range of colours.

Then tried Tamiya XF & X which are their acrylic range. The are far better than Vallejo harder & cure very quickly compared to Vallejo.
Their only draw back is their colour range is not wide. However I have become quite proficient in mixing colours.

If you use Tamiya then before using top up the bottle to the bottom of the neck with Tamiya X20 Thinners. This is a general recommendation
using Tamiya. Hand brushing you have to be a superman for that. Apart from say painting a figure they dry to quickly for hand painting.
You can use down to a 0.2 needle nozzle. My Tamiya brush I use a 0.35.

Best really get your airbrush & a pot of a number of acrylic types. John does a good few in the shop. You can then gauge your likes.
Tamiya is a very thin paint & does not tend to fill detail such as panel lines. There are lacquer types but to begin with it is my opinion
that acrylics are by far the best to start with & very less smelly.

Best primer, not Vallejo keep away it is a disaster area. It tends to peel & is not hard. Difficult to sand even after 3 days curing Also quite
a thick coat.

The best I have found is Stynylerez by Badger Air Brushes (also market under Ultimate Primer). I is a very forgiving primer & flattens well.
Dry within the hour. I have sanded after say 3 hours & it sands to a feather at the edge. very hard & adheres well. But wet & dry (wet) 1200 gauge
the plastic to give bite. You will need a 0.4 needle nozzle airbrushing at 25 to 30 PSI. Lot depends on temperature & humidity.

Like all things this is my advice so best to read the thoughts of others. By the way save plastic dring bottles & when you get your airbrush just
practice practice. Different PSI pressures close up 150mm away. Get to know your brush & paint.

Ah yes varnish. Gloss my favorite very forgiving & flattens well & is thin.Alclad 11 Lacquer Aqua Gloss Clear.
Matt Vallejo Acrylic & POLYURETHENE ( not just the acrylic type not as good)) 62.062.

Heck what a screed.

Laurie

Again, thanks a million for the advice! Aye, Lachlan is definitely a pure scottish name. I’m from Aberdeen, but I live in Edinburgh currently, just 40 miles from Glasgow!

I used spray can primer yesterday, Tamiya. Laid it on a bit thick, it stuck to the cardboard where I was spraying it. Maybe a bit less next time!

[lachontrack]

Lachlan,
I always try to assemble parts together that will be the same final colour. It obviously depends on the size of the parts. On a motorbike, I would assemble the cylinders & heads, as they're going to be pretty much the same colour. - I'd probably put in the spark plugs, as well, as they are easily detail painted later, and putting them in after painting, you can easily ruin a finish with glue! ( Been there, done that ). It may sound obvious, but look at all the instruction stages, you can get carried away and end up having to break bits apart, because they won't fit as a complete assembly.
Chromed plastic parts can be tricky ( scrape away the plating on glueing faces ), leave them off as long as possible - if you damage the finish, it's almost impossible to repair a small area, and you'd have to redo the entire component - not good. If the chrome looks a bit too bright, you can tone it down with a coat of gloss varnish, with just a drop of matt added to the mix. If in doubt, try that on the sprues, rather than the proper part.
Dave

Got you, Dave! I’ve started an R1, it’ll be found somewhere on my profile, I’m too new to the forums to know how to link a thread unfortunately!