Paint sanding

[BarryW]

Your link to the MRP paints doesn’t work for me?

try

https://mrpaint.sk/farby

[stillp]

Hmm, what thinners would you suggest?

Either Revell Aqua thinner, or water.
Pete

[Guest]

Hi Carl,

Thinners worked as expected. Here's what we started with on the underside of a hack Heinkel He-111 that I use for testing. The three Aqua colors are indicated on the image.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]

After softening with a Q-tip soaked in thinners, followed by wiping with a paper kitchen towel also dowsed in same ...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]

All that remained was residue in the panel lines and rivet holes. A small stiff brush would remove that if necessary. Otherwise the plastic is back to the original.

The thinners smell and are harmful to breathe so a respirator or quality mask would be mandatory - or do it outside in a strong gale! I hope this helps resolve your problem.

Kind regards,

Murfie

[stona]

If that doesn't work, I picked up some MRP paints from here:

https://www.hmhobbies.co.uk/

I haven't done a Euro to Pound conversion, but there can't be much in it.

I'm going to give them a go on something soon, the only problem is that if I like them, what do I do with about 200 tinlets of enamels?

Cheers

Steve

[BarryW]

If that doesn't work, I picked up some MRP paints from here:

https:tongue-out3:/www.hmhobbies.co.uk/

I haven't done a Euro to Pound conversion, but there can't be much in it.

I'm going to give them a go on something soon, the only problem is that if I like them, what do I do with about 200 tinlets of enamels?

Cheers

Steve

LOL Steve
If you are like me I just gave away 200 plus bottles of Vallejo and restocked.... Once you get hooked on MRP!!!!!

[Guest]

If you are like me I just gave away 200 plus bottles of Vallejo and restocked....

A similar situation to my own when in my more naive days I was using a mix of three different incompatible acrylic paints that caused me a lot of grief.

[Guest]

OK Carl some information to feed on. This is my recommendation.

Dump the AB brush in the drawer.

The Iwata is as fine brush. well engineered. I use a similar with a 0.35 for general work. Also has a top cup where you can add colours & thinners etc straight into it.

Paint. Well this is a hot bed. Every one has there ideas. Most descend on to one brand. I have. Reason is that I have become used to it know what I can do with it drying times how forgiving it is.

You have heard about Lacquer paint. So the best is to get a pot & try it. Do not go mad & buy a lot. Try it first to see if it suites you.

I use Tamiya XF & X range. This is a sophisticated range of acrylic Paint. It is thin & you will not loose any detail panel lines etc in fine detail. Try that just one pot.

With a lacquer & Tamiya you will have the best of paints.

I would get a large empty plastic drinks bottle. Spend lots of time with this selection of paints trying them out. Close then 150mm away different setting of PSI.
Spend a couple of hours it is worth while as you will learn a lot about the paints & the Iwata Brush.

On your disaster there are half a dozen reasons that could have happened. No mention of primer. I as said use the Tamiya range. The primer I use for that is Stynlerez which is superb.Not a Lacquer man so cannot adivse.

[Defiant911]

If that doesn't work, I picked up some MRP paints from here:

https:tongue-out3:/www.hmhobbies.co.uk/

I haven't done a Euro to Pound conversion, but there can't be much in it.

I'm going to give them a go on something soon, the only problem is that if I like them, what do I do with about 200 tinlets of enamels?

Cheers

Steve

Like wise, I have quite a few revell which I won’t use to airbrush going forward. I suppose they will be ok for hand brushing.

[Defiant911]

Hi Carl,

Thinners worked as expected. Here's what we started with on the underside of a hack Heinkel He-111 that I use for testing. The three Aqua colors are indicated on the image.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]

After softening with a Q-tip soaked in thinners, followed by wiping with a paper kitchen towel also dowsed in same ...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]

All that remained was residue in the panel lines and rivet holes. A small stiff brush would remove that if necessary. Otherwise the plastic is back to the original.

The thinners smell and are harmful to breathe so a respirator or quality mask would be mandatory - or do it outside in a strong gale! I hope this helps resolve your problem.

Kind regards,

Murfie

I wonder if there is a equivalent to this that I already have.?

[Defiant911]

OK Carl some information to feed on. This is my recommendation.

Dump the AB brush in the drawer.

The Iwata is as fine brush. well engineered. I use a similar with a 0.35 for general work. Also has a top cup where you can add colours & thinners etc straight into it.

Paint. Well this is a hot bed. Every one has there ideas. Most descend on to one brand. I have. Reason is that I have become used to it know what I can do with it drying times how forgiving it is.

You have heard about Lacquer paint. So the best is to get a pot & try it. Do not go mad & buy a lot. Try it first to see if it suites you.

I use Tamiya XF & X range. This is a sophisticated range of acrylic Paint. It is thin & you will not loose any detail panel lines etc in fine detail. Try that just one pot.

With a lacquer & Tamiya you will have the best of paints.

I would get a large empty plastic drinks bottle. Spend lots of time with this selection of paints trying them out. Close then 150mm away different setting of PSI.
Spend a couple of hours it is worth while as you will learn a lot about the paints & the Iwata Brush.

On your disaster there are half a dozen reasons that could have happened. No mention of primer. I as said use the Tamiya range. The primer I use for that is Stynlerez which is superb.Not a Lacquer man so cannot adivse.

I used Vallejo grey primer.

[BattleshipBob]

I have started using lacqure and one very important thing get a MASK!! I have just bought a selection of MRP and also Mr color and tamiya and in my opinion MRP is the best i have found and its pre thinned!

But as Laurie says, get one bottle of Vallejo , tamiya etc etc and play and practice

[Guest]

I wonder if there is a equivalent to this that I already have.?

Carl, I've tried with several other similar thinners that don't achieve the same. So I'm no help on that one.

[Defiant911]

OK Carl some information to feed on. This is my recommendation.

Dump the AB brush in the drawer.

The Iwata is as fine brush. well engineered. I use a similar with a 0.35 for general work. Also has a top cup where you can add colours & thinners etc straight into it.

Paint. Well this is a hot bed. Every one has there ideas. Most descend on to one brand. I have. Reason is that I have become used to it know what I can do with it drying times how forgiving it is.

You have heard about Lacquer paint. So the best is to get a pot & try it. Do not go mad & buy a lot. Try it first to see if it suites you.

I use Tamiya XF & X range. This is a sophisticated range of acrylic Paint. It is thin & you will not loose any detail panel lines etc in fine detail. Try that just one pot.

With a lacquer & Tamiya you will have the best of paints.

I would get a large empty plastic drinks bottle. Spend lots of time with this selection of paints trying them out. Close then 150mm away different setting of PSI.
Spend a couple of hours it is worth while as you will learn a lot about the paints & the Iwata Brush.

On your disaster there are half a dozen reasons that could have happened. No mention of primer. I as said use the Tamiya range. The primer I use for that is Stynlerez which is superb.Not a Lacquer man so cannot adivse.

Hi Laurie,
I have many Tamiya paints and also a selection of varnish. Is there a specific varnish for Tamiya to mix?

[Defiant911]

So I used my Tamiya thinner to remove paint back to plastic. This seem to work just fine. I taped off some of the area of the fuselage and sprayed the wing back in. It actually went much easier that I thought and it’s pretty hard to tell it was resprayed again other than if compared to the opposite wing as the paint has a smoother finish this time. I used my 0.35 needle Iwata which has a much smaller spray pattern so you have to build the paint up with many runs. I also set the psi down to about 15 and moved in smaller patterns until area was covered. I almost feel like doing the other wing to improve the finish but I’m not going to tempt fate as it looks ok from a foot away long as you don’t feel the paint finish.
anyway, I can move on to finishing the model off now with some paint touch ups and a coat of varnish .
Carl

[Tim Marlow]

Looks good now Carl. Nice recovery. I really would think about redoing the other side though, a rough finish will make decal application harder and may cause slivering Under the decal.