Paint sanding

[Guest]

Few things Carl.

Tamiya paints. some of the FX have a strange semi gloss finish othere pure matt.

With Tamiya FX I 30% thin with Tamiya 20a thinner. I also have Tamiya X35 which is a semi gloss. I drop 10% into the XF colour. Gives a nice smooth finish.

Tamiya do not have a high gloss varnish stupid. I use Aqua Aclad 11Lacquer Aqua Gloss Clear. Thin for giving & very easy to clean your airbrush.

Carl I would bin your Vallejo Primer it peels like an orange. A disaster area in the masking removal zone.

Go for Stynylerez it is for Acrylics a hard primer & can be feather edge sanded. Vallejo primer can not be. Also in the UK marketed under the name Ultimate Primer.

All the above is Acrylics info. For Lacquer get info from a Lacquer user.

With your Iwats do not be to timid. For general coverage 20PSI. About 150 175mm from the surface. Keep moving with the trigger pressed down & pulled back plenty.
You want good coverage & so that the surface is just getting very slightly wet. Keep moving the brush ALL the time. Lower PSI & not enoguh paint will give a rough finish.

Do not for get . This is the way I do it. See how others do it & get your own technique.

[Defiant911]

Few things Carl.

Tamiya paints. some of the FX have a strange semi gloss finish othere pure matt.

With Tamiya FX I 30% thin with Tamiya 20a thinner. I also have Tamiya X35 which is a semi gloss. I drop 10% into the XF colour. Gives a nice smooth finish.

Tamiya do not have a high gloss varnish stupid. I use Aqua Aclad 11Lacquer Aqua Gloss Clear. Thin for giving & very easy to clean your airbrush.

Carl I would bin your Vallejo Primer it peels like an orange. A disaster area in the masking removal zone.

Go for Stynylerez it is for Acrylics a hard primer & can be feather edge sanded. Vallejo primer can not be. Also in the UK marketed under the name Ultimate Primer.

All the above is Acrylics info. For Lacquer get info from a Lacquer user.

With your Iwats do not be to timid. For general coverage 20PSI. About 150 175mm from the surface. Keep moving with the trigger pressed down & pulled back plenty.
You want good coverage & so that the surface is just getting very slightly wet. Keep moving the brush ALL the time. Lower PSI & not enoguh paint will give a rough finish.

Do not for get . This is the way I do it. See how others do it & get your own technique.

Totally agree about the Vallejo primer . I’ve already had it peel of when masking etc. As you say, it doesn’t seem to stick too well. Annoyingly I got two big bottles of the stuff in grey and black.. I need to practice more in the psi I think.
carl

[Defiant911]

Looks good now Carl. Nice recovery. I really would think about redoing the other side though, a rough finish will make decal application harder and may cause slivering Under the decal.

Damn you, now look what you made me do..

[BarryW]

Totally agree about the Vallejo primer . I’ve already had it peel of when masking etc. As you say, it doesn’t seem to stick too well. Annoyingly I got two big bottles of the stuff in grey and black.. I need to practice more in the psi I think.
carl

Vallejo Primer is not good. But it can be made to work. Clean the plastic thoroughly first. Lay down the primer in very light coats building up colour gradually. Leave it for at least 24 hours, in an airing cupboard ideally so it fully cures. Humidity is your enemy and it will need longer depending on that.

[Tim Marlow]

Biggest issue I have found with VJ primer is not peeling, but the inability to sand it to feather edges for minor repairs. I have therefore relegated it to use on priming gaming terrain pieces only. I haven’t used Stynylres as I assumed it was similar. Normally use decanted Tamiya or Mr colour primers at the moment.

[BarryW]

Biggest issue I have found with VJ primer is not peeling, but the inability to sand it to feather edges for minor repairs. I have therefore relegated it to use on priming gaming terrain pieces only. I haven’t used Stynylres as I assumed it was similar. Normally use decanted Tamiya or Mr colour primers at the moment.

It does sand and feather. I used to do it. But you do need it to be fully and properly cured first. Humidity Is the big enemy. Stynylrez is much better than Vallejo both in ‘stickability’ and sanding though you still make sure you clean the plastic. It cures a lot quicker. I moved from Vallejo to Stymylrez and only stopped using that when I discovered MRP which trumps all other brands in every respect.

[Komedy]

I am a recent MRP convert and its a joy to spray and so forgiving. I add a little Mr Colour Levelling Thinner. Have not tried their primer of varnishes yet. For primer I am using the Ammo Mig Oneshot which goes down nicely.

Warren

[BarryW]

I am a recent MRP convert and its a joy to spray and so forgiving. I add a little Mr Colour Levelling Thinner. Have not tried their primer of varnishes yet. For primer I am using the Ammo Mig Oneshot which goes down nicely.

Warren

The Ammo One Shot is a rebranded Stynylrez so it is very good. The MRP primer is very good but that One Shot is as well.

The MRP varnishes are the best I have found and I have tried a lot of brands.

The main thing is to spray them in very light coats over MRP paint. If you lay it down too thickly it can reactivate the paint underneath and that can be problematical exposing the primer. I would not use anything else though.

[Guest]

... I am using the Ammo Mig Oneshot which goes down nicely.

I'll second that.