Problems spraying

[BattleshipBob]

Some excellent points Steve, will have a look

Got enough in the swear box to.insure the car:upside:

[JR]

Bob, suggest you check the nozzle seals as well, and are you using the vallejo flow improver ?

[Steve Jones]

Use a paint brush mate. :smiling5: :thumb2:

[BattleshipBob]

Bob, suggest you check the nozzle seals as well, and are you using the vallejo flow improver ?

Hi John

Only started since using 4BO:tongue-out3:. Yep using flow stuff

Use a paint brush mate. :smiling5: :thumb2:

Thinking of a roller!

[BattleshipBob]

sorted

Carried out some experiments

started using a bottle of blue vallejo (shaken to xmas and bacK) and for the first time thinned with water, started a lot better but after a few lines the problem returned, noticed a lot of blue paint on the tip, yes the dreaded tip dry, cleaned and it sprayed fine again then quickly tip dry returned. i added more and more vallejo flow improver but never really totally cured the tip dry.

Next i used modelair with much the same result, but sprayed better

finally lacquer, MRP pre-thinned, perfect no problems, sprayed lines, dots and signatures etc

then a strange thing happened, After spraying the vallejo i removed the needle, put some medea airbrush cleaner on some kitchen roll and run the needle through it, no problem a bit of blue paint left on the towel, after using lacquer did the same but used liquid reamer as a cleaner and to my surprise more blue paint was on the roll not red lacquer????

I may use liquid reamer to clean the needle in future as it seemed to have cleaned the nedel a lot better than airbursh cleaner

thanks all for the advcie and help

bob

[Jack L]

sorted

Carried out some experiments

started using a bottle of blue vallejo (shaken to xmas and bacK) and for the first time thinned with water, started a lot better but after a few lines the problem returned, noticed a lot of blue paint on the tip, yes the dreaded tip dry, cleaned and it sprayed fine again then quickly tip dry returned. i added more and more vallejo flow improver but never really totally cured the tip dry.

Next i used modelair with much the same result, but sprayed better

finally lacquer, MRP pre-thinned, perfect no problems, sprayed lines, dots and signatures etc

then a strange thing happened, After spraying the vallejo i removed the needle, put some medea airbrush cleaner on some kitchen roll and run the needle through it, no problem a bit of blue paint left on the towel, after using lacquer did the same but used liquid reamer as a cleaner and to my surprise more blue paint was on the roll not red lacquer????

I may use liquid reamer to clean the needle in future as it seemed to have cleaned the nedel a lot better than airbursh cleaner

thanks all for the advcie and help

bob

I use reamer to clean the paint out after use, and then run some airbrush cleaner through after re-assembly...I believe it lubricates everything, and you can also check everything is working again so save a palaver the next time you come to use it with paint.

[Wookie2486]

What do you use as a reamer

[BattleshipBob]

I use Liquid reamer in a spray can but found out you can celloluse. So when ready will get a large can, cheaper than sprays,

I use reamer to clean the paint out after use, and then run some airbrush cleaner through after re-assembly...I believe it lubricates everything, and you can also check everything is working again so save a palaver the next time you come to use it with paint.

Only used for lacqure but will try on water based

[SteveH]

Fingers crossed Bob you have cracked the problem with a stronger cleaner

Steve H

[BattleshipBob]

Fingers crossed Bob you have cracked the problem with a stronger cleaner

Steve H

Thanks Steve, shocked by how quick tip dry built up, but yes will clean the needle with reamer from now on

[Guest]

Two of the best to clean your brush Bob.

Reamer for experience most awfully enginnered rubus.

Cost a bit but the best & H & S Reamer. Had mine 15 years. oergs I bougth hit the dump a long time ago. I is very fine,

https://www.everythingairbrush.com/product/nozzle-cleaning-needle/

I remove nozzle & cap & put in a shot glass with enough cleaner to cover the nozzle & cap.
I have this fellow which as many uses connected direct to the compressor giving 50PSI.

https://www.everythingairbrush.com/product/micro-air-blower-by-harder-steenbeck/

Place the blower nozzle in the airbrush nozzle & blast thro. air. Reverse through the front
end of the nozzle. never fails get rid of all junk

Put nozzle up against a white background & look at the nozzle aperture to ensuer all clean.

[BarryW]

You do not get tip drying problems at all with MRP and the pigment is so fine that it is more ink-like and can spray successfully through even 0.15 needles that block with Model Air. Being so reliable you can spray it with confidence for long sessions of fine detail work, something you cannot do with Model Air.

[BattleshipBob]

Two of the best to clean your brush Bob.

Reamer for experience most awfully enginnered rubus.

Cost a bit but the best & H & S Reamer. Had mine 15 years. oergs I bougth hit the dump a long time ago. I is very fine,
https:tongue-out3:/www.everythingair...eaning-needle/

I remove nozzle & cap & put in a shot glass with enough cleaner to cover the nozzle & cap.
I have this fellow which as many uses connected direct to the compressor giving 50PSI.
https:tongue-out3:/www.everythingair...der-steenbeck/

Place the blower nozzle in the airbrush nozzle & blast thro. air. Reverse through the front
end of the nozzle. never fails get rid of all junk

Put nozzle up against a white background & look at the nozzle aperture to ensuer all clean.

Thanks Laurie, will have a look, will it work on iwata i wonder?

You do not get tip drying problems at all with MRP and the pigment is so fine that it is more ink-like and can spray successfully through even 0.15 needles that block with Model Air. Being so reliable you can spray it with confidence for long sessions of fine detail work, something you cannot do with Model Air.

Morning Barry

Recenty started using Lacquer, and of the three i have been trying MRP is the best, as you say used it yesterday for ages no tip dry, no splatter.

[Guest]

Hi all

I would consider myself a good airbrusher however recently i am having big problems with paint flown/ splatter. Never had this before.

I have even gone back to the basics but still problems.

For example spraying lines, starts off fine then no paint comes out, getting the same on a model. i have not moved the trigger at all. A slight movement of the trigger to let more paint through but no change, bit more a splatter.

I mix the paint in a cheap plastic shot glass and follow what i was shown on a course i did, adding thinner with a dropper. I am using vallejo and life colour thinner.

I have thinned the paint to super thin, played around with pressures but nothing. I am not getting spiders webs.

Its driving me nuts, help!!

What airbrush you using

[BattleshipBob]

Iwata eclipse and recently bought a Sparmax with small needle