Great, glad to hear that. The good thing is that their colour range is so large that you should never have to mix paint or use any other through the airbrush.
A couple of tips.
Try the MLT trick. Once you have finished a session spray a mist coat of Mr Levelling Thinner over the model. This can be part of your airbrush cleaning routine so no thinner is wasted. You will find it re-activates the paint and levels it out to a perfect surface. Even though MRP sprays beautifully, if you spray too far from the model it can be slightly matted (when it should not be) this is because the pigment can dry before it hits the surface. You also get vortexes while spraying caused by the shape of the model. hence why sometimes you get a rougher surface, say, on the inner sections of a wing behind the engines. The MLT mist coat evens it all out - easier to do than sanding the surface. Whatever you do though, do not flood the model, better to do a few light coats than one heavy one.
You can touch-up using MRP with a hairy brush if needed, but you should not brush it on the model. Make sure the paint is fully cured and put a drop of MRP into a pallet and leave it to evaporate off and thicken the paint for a short time. Then dab a spot of the paint where you need to touch up and leave it. It may need more than one application. This is best done in those hard to reach nooks and crannies rather than a high viz part of the model where it is best to touch up with the airbrush and with localised masking. It is not perfect but it is a useful trick every now and then.
Also - you will have details to paint that you cannot spray. For that use water based acyilics. I have a smallish collection of mainly primary colours for this purpose.
One final thing. The MRP varnishes are brilliant and spray just as well as the paint. But, they can reactivate the underlying paint and cause the primer colour to 'bleed through' spoiling the paint job. So, whatever you do, spray the varnish with care in very light coats. I am about to try spraying a water based acrylic varnish instead, just as a barrier, before decalling and before the second gloss varnish coat which will be MRP.
A couple of tips.
Try the MLT trick. Once you have finished a session spray a mist coat of Mr Levelling Thinner over the model. This can be part of your airbrush cleaning routine so no thinner is wasted. You will find it re-activates the paint and levels it out to a perfect surface. Even though MRP sprays beautifully, if you spray too far from the model it can be slightly matted (when it should not be) this is because the pigment can dry before it hits the surface. You also get vortexes while spraying caused by the shape of the model. hence why sometimes you get a rougher surface, say, on the inner sections of a wing behind the engines. The MLT mist coat evens it all out - easier to do than sanding the surface. Whatever you do though, do not flood the model, better to do a few light coats than one heavy one.
You can touch-up using MRP with a hairy brush if needed, but you should not brush it on the model. Make sure the paint is fully cured and put a drop of MRP into a pallet and leave it to evaporate off and thicken the paint for a short time. Then dab a spot of the paint where you need to touch up and leave it. It may need more than one application. This is best done in those hard to reach nooks and crannies rather than a high viz part of the model where it is best to touch up with the airbrush and with localised masking. It is not perfect but it is a useful trick every now and then.
Also - you will have details to paint that you cannot spray. For that use water based acyilics. I have a smallish collection of mainly primary colours for this purpose.
One final thing. The MRP varnishes are brilliant and spray just as well as the paint. But, they can reactivate the underlying paint and cause the primer colour to 'bleed through' spoiling the paint job. So, whatever you do, spray the varnish with care in very light coats. I am about to try spraying a water based acrylic varnish instead, just as a barrier, before decalling and before the second gloss varnish coat which will be MRP.
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