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Airbrush...a few questions

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  • Jim R
    SMF Supporters
    • Apr 2018
    • 15646
    • Jim
    • Shropshire

    #16
    Originally posted by Isitme
    For acrylics I use boiled water (leave to go cold first) or Ultimate products airbrush thinner.
    Strangely enough I've had some issues thinning Vallejo Model Colour with Ultimate AB thinner. Maybe I was unlucky or somehow contaminated something but my mix went stringy with small lumps.
    Jim

    Comment

    • AFC
      • Feb 2011
      • 128

      #17
      From the past I had some Vallejo and Tamiya paints still left, so this time I went and bought Vallejo Airbrush cleaner and varnish, and Tamiya XF-20. I probably get some Vallejo Thinner for the Vallejo paint I still have left

      Probably I should've done better research before buying...but learning as I go


      Originally posted by Laurie
      Thinning Tamiya XF. When I open a new bottle I fill up to the bottom of the neck with 20A thinner.
      This a great tip!!

      Originally posted by rtfoe
      I wanted to make this simple but I may have confused you.
      Nope, all clear and good stuff

      Comment

      • AFC
        • Feb 2011
        • 128

        #18
        Oh one more, forgot to ask, about AB cleaning.

        I've been watching some YouTube vids and I can see there's a quick cleaning method when swapping colours and a deeper cleaning method (dismantle the AB).

        Would you recommend doing the latter after every AB session or once in a while?

        Comment

        • Tim Marlow
          SMF Supporters
          • Apr 2018
          • 18883
          • Tim
          • Somerset UK

          #19
          Originally posted by Isitme
          Andre,
          For acrylics I use boiled water (leave to go cold first) or Ultimate products airbrush thinner.
          I use Tamiya or Mr Color levelling thinner for Tamiya or AK real colours.
          For varnish I use Tamiya clear thinned about 50-50. For total matt I use AK 183 Ultra Matte Varnish.
          And except for the acrylic water based I always spray in the shed and with a face mask.
          Hope this helps
          Mike.
          Hi Mike
          Why boiled water and not just tap water?

          Comment

          • Jim R
            SMF Supporters
            • Apr 2018
            • 15646
            • Jim
            • Shropshire

            #20
            I tend to clean my AB well at the end of each session. That is not a full strip down but just flush through with cleaner until it sprays nicely with no colour residue. I only do a deep clean rarely - only when I think there is an issue. Very rarely indeed do I take it apart or use the Ultrasonic bath. I do clean and lube the needle more often. Cleaning is easier on H&S than on Iwata but then we're back to personal choice really.
            Jim

            Comment

            • Guest

              #21
              Originally posted by AFC
              Oh one more, forgot to ask, about AB cleaning.

              I've been watching some YouTube vids and I can see there's a quick cleaning method when swapping colours and a deeper cleaning method (dismantle the AB).

              Would you recommend doing the latter after every AB session or once in a while?
              Iwata just a strip between projects. They clean well after sessions but are more difficult to strip.

              H & S I use for varnish & primers. Always strip each session dead easy 4 mintes & clean.

              Clean Pro is the best cleaner I have come across but supplies short must be the covid thing.

              Vallejo Cleaner very good resonably priced.

              On mixing in cup I always do this (apologies Andrew). Have a paint brush which get right down into the bottom & not had problems.

              Comment

              • JR
                • May 2015
                • 18273

                #22
                Originally posted by Laurie
                Iwata just a strip between projects. They clean well after sessions but are more difficult to strip.

                H & S I use for varnish & primers. Always strip each session dead easy 4 mintes & clean.

                Clean Pro is the best cleaner I have come across but supplies short must be the covid thing.

                Vallejo Cleaner very good resonably priced.

                On mixing in cup I always do this (apologies Andrew). Have a paint brush which get right down into the bottom & not had problems.
                Laurie where do you find Clean Pro, I've never seen it anywhere.

                Sorry for butting into you thread Andrew.

                Comment

                • Guest

                  #23
                  Originally posted by John Race
                  Laurie where do you find Clean Pro, I've never seen it anywhere.

                  Sorry for butting into you thread Andrew.
                  Your own back yard John.

                  100ml Pro-Color Airbrush Cleaner HS65095 Harder & Steenbeck Scale Model Shop UK, 5* Customer Service, Fast Delivery, Reward points on every order


                  But they do 500ml bottles. I put mine in one of those squirty bottles. Squirt into the cup & the paint just disolves. It is a Harder & Steinbeck product but I supect made by another.

                  Laurie

                  Comment

                  • The Migrant
                    • Apr 2011
                    • 1268

                    #24
                    Originally posted by Dave Ward
                    Mike,
                    I've been using mine since 2018 & so far not needed any spares! - I've only used water based acrylics, and avoided using solvents to clean it - for deep cleaning I use an Ultrasonic bath with washing up liquid. I reckon solvents can cause the 'o' rings to deteriorate, so now I've given up using them. I occasionally use a smear of Vaseline on the needle shaft ( not the tip! ) to keep it moving smoothly ( not that often! ).
                    Dave
                    Thanks Dave, you must be more careful than me I've damaged quite a few Iwata needles over the years, so just thinking ahead. Mind you, at the price of that airbrush I could almost buy a new one for the cost of an Iwata needle...

                    Going back to the OP and the question around thinning Tamiya paints, Gunze self-levelling thinner works beautifully with Tamiya paints, as does Tamiya's own lacquer thinner (NOT regular lacquer thinner).

                    Comment

                    • David Lovell
                      SMF Supporters
                      • Apr 2018
                      • 2186

                      #25
                      Agree with Mike mr hobby thinner and self leveling thinner are superb with tamiya paints also with their own lacquer and acrylic paints , as for cleaner dont bother with hard to find products or home alchemy buy a bottle of mr hobby tool cleaner its the muts ,had my best airbrush four years never stripped it ,sometimes I pull the needle to give it a wipe down but thats about it ,why make problems for yourself. I'm sure Richard rtfoe will agree. As for airbrushes as was mentioned get a few models under your belt i also use my cheap ones as much if not more than my expensive one ,there a bit like golf clubs untill you've got a good grip on what your doing you can spend a fortune but it won't make you a better player. Please just enjoy yourself if I learnt one thing it was to do my own thing my own way and not to worry about how great other modlers builds were else its all to easy to put yourself down all the time ,your thing your way books and magazines are OK but misleading these chaps have been at it for some time read it take it on board then find your own way to do it. Dave.

                      Comment

                      • Dave Ward
                        SMF Supporters
                        • Apr 2018
                        • 10549

                        #26
                        As Dave Lovell says - find the way that suits you best, and are most comfortable with, but don't just dismiss other ideas - I'm still picking things up after 50 years modelling ( OK, maybe I'm a slow learner! :rolling: ). A thing to remember, a lot of these books & magazines are sponsored & supplied with samples by makers - so reviews & techniques may not be as impartial as you may hope! ( not that I'm cynical......................)
                        Dave

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                        • Guest

                          #27
                          Rather than books & magazines , mostly boring, go to Utube. Some rubbish some good take your pick.

                          Easiest way is to--- build.

                          Laurie

                          Comment

                          • rtfoe
                            SMF Supporters
                            • Apr 2018
                            • 9065

                            #28
                            Yup, the best lesson is to make mistakes and not repeat them. The build started from pieces anyway so any mistakes can be broken down and restarted. Clear parts can be an expensive mistake though. The next question will be how to take off old paint.:smiling2:

                            Cheers,
                            Richard

                            Comment

                            • AFC
                              • Feb 2011
                              • 128

                              #29
                              Originally posted by Jim R
                              I tend to clean my AB well at the end of each session. That is not a full strip down but just flush through with cleaner until it sprays nicely with no colour residue. I only do a deep clean rarely - only when I think there is an issue. Very rarely indeed do I take it apart or use the Ultrasonic bath. I do clean and lube the needle more often. Cleaning is easier on H&S than on Iwata but then we're back to personal choice really.
                              Jim
                              This makes the whole process sound a lot easier and quicker was a

                              Originally posted by David Lovell
                              As for airbrushes as was mentioned get a few models under your belt i also use my cheap ones as much if not more than my expensive one ,there a bit like golf clubs untill you've got a good grip on what your doing you can spend a fortune but it won't make you a better player.
                              I can relate to both things

                              I’m currently working on a M4A2 Sherman (pics soon in another thread) and also have some figures which I’m planning to use as guinea pigs.


                              Originally posted by Dave Ward
                              but don't just dismiss other ideas -
                              never always keen to learn!!!

                              Comment

                              • stona
                                SMF Supporters
                                • Jul 2008
                                • 9889

                                #30
                                I won't chip in on the paints, because I don't use any 'acrylics'.

                                I would say for the airbrush that I think it's worth getting a decent quality tool. Then you just have to practice. It's not rocket science and anyone can become at least proficient airbrushing. You might be one of those that becomes brilliant!

                                You will get a lot of conflicting advice, particularly about thinning paints and the pressure at which to spray them. Again, take it on board but in the end you will have to find what works best for you and not anyone else.

                                Good luck! I

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