Can someone please advise me what i could use to clean my airbrush after spraying Alclad with it.Apart from Alclads airbrush cleaner that is.Ive got IPA ,White spirit and enamel thinners in my shed.
Alclad
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Cellulose thinners is the only good way to clean up after Alclad; get it at Halfords - don't pay model shop prices! Oh - and make sure you wear a mask! -
Dave , dont buy it from b&q ! Itll cost a fortune for a little tin, get it from the motor factors , Its loads cheaper. PLus < if you get a big tin , you can use it as liquid cement too. Its all i use as a thin cement , the tin i got (tetrosyl ,i think) was about £7 for 5 litres and ive had it years and its nowhere near running out yet! cheers tonyComment
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Dave , another thing to consider is the type of airbrush youve got. Some ( iwata and some badgers for example)have a teflon sealing washer on the needle ,which is fine for using with 'hot' thinners , some cheaper ones have rubber washers which can swell on contact with cellulose and cause problems. Just something to consider , cheers tonyComment
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Good point Tony.Both my airbrushes have got teflon seals luckily.Been meaning to try Alaclad for ages.But havent bothered because of the cost.What with the gloss black you need as well.But having seen the results you can get with it on this forum,i decided to get some today.I intend using it on a 1/48 Academy P47N ive got in my stash.Comment
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Originally posted by \Some ( iwata and some badgers for example)have a teflon sealing washer on the needle ,
Please read the communication attached below from Iwata-Medea about the use of the trade-marked name Teflon. Teflon is one brand name of a PTFE material. The PTFE solvent-proof material used to make the needle packings in Iwata airbrushes is not the Teflon branded one, so we must refer to it as 'PTFE' or 'solvent-proof' or 'PTFE solvent-proof' in all printed and online literature. I'm sure many people will still verbally ask for it as 'Teflon' as it is made from the same material and it has become virtually synonymous with the term PTFE (in fact I think maybe the word Teflon is better known than the material name PTFE!). This is much like the brand name Hoover became in the UK, where we still say we're 'going to Hoover the lounge', for example - even though many people should be saying they're 'Dysoning their lounge' now!Comment
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Guest
I've got a few different chrome paints I use at work for alloy wheel refurbishment. It's a far brighter finish than the Alclad, i wonder if it's worth a shot? Plus you can polish it after it's been applied. The finish you put over a black base coat is usually referred to as shadow chrome and was the original finish on the old M5 wheels, I've got a picture of some I did during the summer.
Here it is...
There's a special lacquer that goes over the top that won't 'kill' the chrome effect. Some of the lacquers can just make it go grey.
I'll give it a go on some styrene some time and see if it melts.
As for thinners, a good quality synthetic lacquer thinners with a low toluene content seems to be a good bet for leaving seals in tact.Comment
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I would think that if you do name that PTFE product followed by (T) (Which in a word (T) document the program automatically puts the T in a circle (works with C and R as well) )
That was todays bit of worthless bit of info. However, by doing that after a registered trade mark ® or Copy write © or trade mark (T) legal eagles will have a hard time proving intent to infringe a name, phrase or mark........
The Trade name Teflon (T) is easier to remember that PTFE and a lot easier to spell than Polytetrafluoroethylene!
I use cellulose thinners most of the time and just use the Alclad cleaner either after their primer or for a real good clean after a longer session.
Ian M
Useless info #2 PTFE is the only surface a Gekko cant walk up. its that slippery. that being said why do my pancakes always bloody stick to the pan!!!Comment
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Originally posted by \Sorry john , dont want the lawyers knocking on the door!! Note to self : no more use of the 'T' word!Comment
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Ther are many different Alclads. The highly polished or chrome finishes definitely benefit from a gloss black undercoat and I think give a very realistic finish. I agree that on these many clear varnishes detract from the effect.
If you are after a duraluminium or aircraft aluminium finish I honestly don't believe that the black undercoat is needed. I've been applying various shades of aluminium over a grey primer for years and the finish looks realistic to me. I apply one coat of Klear as protective coat with minimal diminishing of the metallic finish.
Cheers
SteveComment
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