Thats how I started getting results from mine. All the YT vids all the threads on here actually started overloading me. Then when I started using it and 'fiddling', thin mix, then thick, high and low pressures!!!!! A few sheets of blank paper to test on before actually spraying and presto - it all started happening. My only problem now is correcting my cock ups!!!
Under Pressure!
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I tend to adjust the pressure like Andy does. So many variables, paint, distance from model, area to be covered, even the room temperature is a factor. I have no idea of the actual pressure but tend to work at the lowest pressure which gives the required "spray".Comment
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It's not as if compressors have the gauge in a place that is visible most of the time!!Comment
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I’ve fitted a second gauge and PRV to the airbrush stand so I have one that is easy to adjust. I then just turned the PRV on the compressor up to about 50 and adjust the one on the stand to give air pressure as required. It’s not the same as a MAC valve, by the way. That reduces air flow, not pressure…..Comment
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I’ve fitted a second gauge and PRV to the airbrush stand so I have one that is easy to adjust. I then just turned the PRV on the compressor up to about 50 and adjust the one on the stand to give air pressure as required. It’s not the same as a MAC valve, by the way. That reduces air flow, not pressure…..Comment
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PRV, pressure reducing valve……
MAC valve, a little screw device that fits under the airbrush on the air inlet line and crimps the air flow.
Basically what I’ve done (and obviously badly explained) is extend the air line connecting the compressor and the PRV so I can adjust the PRV at the bench rather than have to reach to the compressor to do it.Comment
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PRV, pressure reducing valve……
MAC valve, a little screw device that fits under the airbrush on the air inlet line and crimps the air flow.
Basically what I’ve done (and obviously badly explained) is extend the air line connecting the compressor and the PRV so I can adjust the PRV at the bench rather than have to reach to the compressor to do it.Comment
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If anything I'll set my pressure with the trigger pulled (dynamic pressure) rather than not (static pressure) but to be honest I can't really see what my gauge says, nor would I trust it anyway, so personally I don't worry about the actual reading.
Thicker paint and greater distance generally means more pressure, so if I'm moving in close or thinning my paint more I'll just keep winding down the pressure until it doesn't atomise correctly (paint comes out spitty rather than a fine mist and it sounds "crackly" coming out of the nozzle) then notch it back up a tad.
Not very scientific I know, but then neither is airbrushing :smiling4:
Cheers,
WabbleComment
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(TBH, it's which needle to use is my dilemma. 0-2, 0.3 or 0.5!! - Guess I'll work it out eventually).Comment
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Haha, I think that's where it comes from Ian.
Give me a pot of silver and I can get several different shades out of it by varying air pressure, distance, film thickness, air temperature, you name it. I've gotten so used to working on the fly that it spills over into my airbrushing.
Maybe if I were more consistent I'd get better results :thinking:Comment
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