Badger 100 brush

[Guest]

Cool ,I will give that a go soon

Theuns

[Guest]

I agree with Steve, freehand the lighter and then use the darker to concentrate on getting the shape right. I tried using a soft pencil on a couple of models to mark it out but you can still see the lines after painting. I have never tried a 1:72 but all my 1:48 are freehand, the only masking I do is to cover the under side lighter colour to prevent overspray where it is a hard edge but on a scheme like the FW190, it is fully freehand.

Just takes a deep breath, a steady hand and a bit of confidence. Remember that if it goes belly up, the spray wold be fine enough to re prime and have another go. If you are not sure, practice on a large plastic milk bottle (if you have them out there)

[Guest]

Hi Theuns,

Both Steve and Graham have given you the best advice. I weather Model Locomotives and wagons and the only time I have ever camouflaged anything was in the Army where I had to use a 6" brush and camo a Landrover.

Steves example looks absolutly great (well done Steve).

My advice would have been to use a very fine needel and nozzel setup and a practice panel, with the pressure reduced moving in slowly until you have the right effect both the pressure and distance from the model is trial and error.

Aluminium Practice Panel from Airbrushes.com which is white 40cm x 30cm which can be drawn on with a pencil making a grid to practice lines and filling in the squares. The panel can be cleaned with IPA 170 (Isopropyl Alcohol) also available from Airbrushes.com or Maplin in the UK, or any other product that will remove paint; like thinners white sprit etc and then re-used. They also do a Black coloured panel of the same size.

It sure looks like you have the right people helping you now.

Regards,

Leslie.

[Guest]

I took an old 1/72 stuka to practice on and it will get better with time and effort.

I am no river counter, so it actually doesn't matter that much if it is "wrong" just aslong as it looks cool.

Good one Graham, yes we do actually have plastic milk bottles here in darkest Africa, paper ones too LOL! That is if we don't get eaten by the lions that roam the streets on the way to the corner shop ;-) (sorry I couldn't resist)

I am on my way now to the model shop to see if I can get finer needle for the gun

Theuns

[Guest]

Hi Theuns,

Let me know if you cannot get the spare parts and I will see if I can get them for you.

Regards,

Leslie.

[Guest]

yes we do actually have plastic milk bottles here in darkest Africa, paper ones too LOL! That is if we don't get eaten by the lions that roam the streets on the way to the corner shop

:laughing: I didn't mean it like that, I believe some countries do not wast oil based products like the UK and stick to paper cartons which may not be quite as good for practice.

[Guest]

No worries Garham, just giving you a hard time!

Here the gov is more worried about "other" things than to worry about oil produckts!

Theuns

[Guest]

Well, I sprayed the M1A2 today using Tamiya acrylics (not thinned) and was able to get the fan down to about 2-3 mm wide total with minimal overspray.It could be that my enamel was thinned to much.I must say the tamiya works alot easier than the humbrol, but is allot more eazy to scrach of though :-(

Theuns

[stona]

I must say the tamiya works alot easier than the humbrol, but is allot more eazy to scrach of though :-(Theuns

Acrylics dry fast but take longer to "cure" and can be fragile for several hours. You can spray other coats or colours but I'd be wary of masking too soon. I have a plastic box with pipe insulation fitted to the top edges to sit my models on, the insulation gives a soft round profile and doesn't cause hangar damage. I'm sure there are piccies in one of my build threads.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

I have found that even after a few days the acrylic is hard and dry, but if you were to rub it with a finger nail it would scrath off the plastic. Granted, I didn't scuff the plastic, I was to lazy and just wanted to see what the acrylic looks like aplied with an airbrush.

Otherwize I am happy with it , starting to learn the airbrush a little better now.

How do u lads prep the model for acrylics? I now that it can never stick as well as enamels.I usually wash it and scuff the model with steelwool or scoth brite for enamels, seems to stick well then.

Theuns

[Guest]

Hi Theuns,

I use IPA 170 and then spray the model with a light coat of enamel matt varnish. Let the varnish dry and then use Acrylic Paints. Then when you are happy with the job, give a final coat of matt, saturn, gloss enamel varnish to protect it.

I hope this helps,

Regards,

Leslie.

[Guest]

Ok, so if I read correctly you use the enamel matt first to give the model a "key" for the acrylic to grip to? Makes sence :-)

Thanx

Theuns

[Guest]

Ok, so if I read correctly you use the enamel matt first to give the model a "key" for the acrylic to grip to? Makes sence :-)Thanx

Theuns

Hi Theuns,

Yes that's correct, then when the varnish has dried properly (after 24 hours) you can then use Acrylics and then when they are dried which would be after a few hours, apply a few coats of the varnish you deside to use as the final protection coat.

Regards,

Leslie.

[Guest]

What do you mask with over the acrylics ?I use 3m fine line masking but run my finger over it to take the worst sitck off.It works ok on enamels, how about acrylics?

Theuns

[Guest]

Hi Theuns,

I use a special low tack flexible masking film called Ultra Mask from www.airbrushes.com It is made by Artool Inc in the US.

It is professional grade and can be re-usable. It can be cut with a sharp knife whilst on a model.

Regards,

Leslie.