What's this for please?

[Guest]

Hello

Please lok at the picture below and the part pointed to by the blue arrow. What's it for please? I can unscrew the thing but with the end on I cannot remove the needle. Seems pointless.

Sorry to use words like thing and end but I do not know the name of these bits.

Thanks

Aidan

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[Guest]

very not pointless mate,it is similar to a vice and holds the needle tight into the carriage that moves back and forward when you pull back on your trigger.you have to take the end off and unscrew this to remove the needle.

[stona]

Nothing daft there Aidan. Andrew is correct. You have to remove the back of the airbrush (handle in the parts manual) to remove the needle. Once the handle is off you can unscrew the part you arrowed,called the "needle chucking nut". You can then withdraw the needle through the back of the brush.

Be aware that once the needle is removed the trigger can also be lifted out,or fall out. If that happens you will need to remove all the gubbins in the back of the brush (needle chucking guide and auxiliary lever,spring,spring guide) before replacing the trigger and then putting everything back.

It is not at all difficult. I strongly suggest that you have a bash at stripping your airbrush. Every now and then I completely strip my brushes and give them a thorough clean and lubrication. Make sure you remember how it came apart and it will be a doddle to put it back together

Finally be careful not to ram the needle back in. You risk damaging your nozzle doing this. I just drop mine in,give it a very gentle twist and tap into the nozzle and nip up the chucking nut. Minimal force required.

There are a few threads and tips on airbrush cleaning and maintenance but don't hesitate to ask if you're not sure about something,better than b*ggering up an airbrush. I have a parts guide saved on my computer but I'm sure I got it from airbrushes.com

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

OR....you could just use a Paasche Model H:twisted:

Martin

[Guest]

Nothing daft there Aidan. Andrew is correct. You have to remove the back of the airbrush (handle in the parts manual) to remove the needle. Once the handle is off you can unscrew the part you arrowed,called the "needle chucking nut". You can then withdraw the needle through the back of the brush.Be aware that once the needle is removed the trigger can also be lifted out,or fall out. If that happens you will need to remove all the gubbins in the back of the brush (needle chucking guide and auxiliary lever,spring,spring guide) before replacing the trigger and then putting everything back.

It is not at all difficult. I strongly suggest that you have a bash at stripping your airbrush. Every now and then I completely strip my brushes and give them a thorough clean and lubrication. Make sure you remember how it came apart and it will be a doddle to put it back together

Finally be careful not to ram the needle back in. You risk damaging your nozzle doing this. I just drop mine in,give it a very gentle twist and tap into the nozzle and nip up the chucking nut. Minimal force required.

There are a few threads and tips on airbrush cleaning and maintenance but don't hesitate to ask if you're not sure about something,better than b*ggering up an airbrush. I have a parts guide saved on my computer but I'm sure I got it from airbrushes.com

Cheers

Steve

Thanks for this. I strip my airbrush after every use. I'm wondering what the cutout is for. I am attaching another clearer picture but no arrow.

Aidan

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[stona]

I strip my airbrush after every use. Aidan

That's very keen Aidan. I have to confess that I just flush mine through between uses. Normally at the end of a project (which can be months!) I'll completely strip and clean the brushes I've used.

I'm an enamel paint user (I did convert to acrylics for a period) and find that this is more than adequate. If something does go wrong then obviously a remedial strip might be needed. I found I had to do much more cleaning with acrylics,I was for ever shoving cellulose soaked inter dental brushes along the paint ways to remove dried on paint!

I'm not trying to start an acrylic versus enamel row,everyone finds what suits them best

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

I'm an enamel paint user (I did convert to acrylics for a period) and find that this is more than adequate. If something does go wrong then obviously a remedial strip might be needed. I found I had to do much more cleaning with acrylics,I was for ever shoving cellulose soaked inter dental brushes along the paint ways to remove dried on paint!I'm not trying to start an acrylic versus enamel row,everyone finds what suits them best

Cheers

Steve

In my stash I have the Revell London Bus and the colours listed are almost entirely in enamels. This kit is for retirement so hopefully some way off. I'm wondering if enamls give a better gloss finish than acrylics Stona? Do you still have to apply clear varnish? And, like in using acrylics, for a gloss finish, should you spray on matt enamel (can you get matt enamel?) and then use a clear varnish?

Aidan

[stona]

Enamels come in gloss and matt colours. I honestly don't use much gloss as a WW2 aircraft builder. I do use gloss white as I find it covers better. I don't know that enamels give a better gloss finish than acrylics,I can say that I find it easier to achieve with enamels but that's just me. Actually I find them easier to use than acrylics full stop. You may find others disagree

I always apply a varnish over my paint work,whatever the desired finish. If I was after a specifically glossy finish I would probably use gloss paints,but still seal them with a gloss varnish.

It's also fair to say that I find myself in a minority as an enamel user. Even old friends who used to use them now use acrylics almost exclusively. Maybe I'm going the way of the dinosaurs.....only slower,unless the Mayans were right!

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Enamels come in gloss and matt colours. I honestly don't use much gloss as a WW2 aircraft builder. I do use gloss white as I find it covers better. I don't know that enamels give a better gloss finish than acrylics,I can say that I find it easier to achieve with enamels but that's just me. Actually I find them easier to use than acrylics full stop. You may find others disagree I always apply a varnish over my paint work,whatever the desired finish. If I was after a specifically glossy finish I would probably use gloss paints,but still seal them with a gloss varnish.

It's also fair to say that I find myself in a minority as an enamel user. Even old friends who used to use them now use acrylics almost exclusively. Maybe I'm going the way of the dinosaurs.....only slower,unless the Mayans were right!

Cheers

Steve

Thank you Steve

Aidan

[Guest]

I've decided not to give up on my stupid question. Here is my third attempt at explaining it. Please look at the image I have uploaded here. It's the rear of my airbrush. My first airbrush had ust a cylindrical tube which screwed on to the back. This is the same but, as you can see, it has a cutout giving access to some of the workings of the airbrush. In previous posts in this thread, I have established that I know how to dissemble my airbrush with a view to cleaning and that I do clean it regularly this way. So my question is: why do some manufacturers add this cutout in the casing so as to expose the gubbins?

Aidan

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[John]

I'm guessing but I would say for quick release, you don't have to remove the handle when removing the needle, you should remove the needle from the front to not drag paint back up the airbrush and replace it from the front to protect the tip, doing that you would never need to remove the handle.

[Guest]

looking at it on youtube it looks like an easy way to adjust the airflow over the needle for making fine lines http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRQIu-8E0O8,if you watch this the needle goes all the way to the nozzle,i think the one you have makes it easier to adjust the airflow without your fingers getting painted

mobear

[Guest]

After a quick search I came up with this from the "Jason Jones Imagery" site :

The airbrush features a cut-away handle with needle preset as well. This is becoming more of a standard feature on airbrushes nowdays and is handy when trying to pull a consistent line repeatedly. Set the handle and your trigger pull is limited to the preset.

Hope this helps.

[John]

In Aidens picture that is the needle chuck nut and not the adjustment screw you would get on some airbrushes or preset handles

[stona]

In Aidens picture that is the needle chuck nut and not the adjustment screw you would get on some airbrushes or preset handles

You beat me to it John

One of my Iwatas has a similar cut away "handle". I think it might be either an aesthetic/design feature or possibly a weight/balance consideration.

Cheers

Steve