air brush spitting water

[Guest]

Hi there

ive been air brushing for a few years now and the more experianced i get the more i seem to want to do it, my compressor is a few years old now and is still going strong.

i do alot of bulk weathering for my dads railway so its had its use.

the problem i have is last year after like 40 min of use its starts to spit water !! now that time limit is shorted to about 20 min.

i try and clean the water trap out and the gun, but i cant seem to stop the water coming through !!!!

does something need replacing or am i doing anything wrong ??? ive put a picture in to show which compressor ive got.

cheers guys

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[Guest]

well, since there is no tank for air...are you sure it is water?

could it be oil? from the compressor?

if so, the compressor is done.

if its water, then are you spraying in excessively humid conditions?

moisture is in the compressed air...so if the compressor is running hot, and the air gets too hot,

it will condense more.

if the compressor is overheating, it could be lacking oil or just spent.

Since you have a moisture trap in place, it sounds like the trap could also be over-saturated.

Blow it out and then dry out the filter stone in the oven or just replace it to be really sure.

You also need to clean out your hose which has probably collected some moisture.

[Guest]

Even with a filter at the compressor you'll still get a massive amount of condensation in the air line on extended sessions in humid conditions. Fit a filter on your gun too, you'll see what I mean and be amazed at how quickly water collects in that.

[John]

You can find a filter here this should fix it for you

[Guest]

That's precisely the thing I'm referring to, get one of those, John will have it to you lightning fast, his service is excellent and that will cure your spring problem!

[Guest]

I airbrush for a living...and I only see moisture in my system when something is seriously wrong.

I'm sorry to say, adding more filters is not the correct way to deal with it.

Dave

Outlawz Airbrush, Artwork and Design

[Guest]

Agree Dave. As the unit worked well before then there must be a fault especially as the problem is getting worse & worse. Has to be the compressor as that is the only part which can bring in moisture.

Worth taking the head off 4 screws from memory & seeing if the rubber type thing in the cylinder is free from rubbish.

Laurie

[Guest]

thanks for this guys .

ive just taken the stone out and it does feel damp, its deffo water cause there is signs of rust near where it screws in. it must need replacing i gess !!

im trying it in the oven fornow to see how that goes lol.

john !! do you supply new air stones too ???

im probably in need of a new compressor as it has been on every other weekend for the last 4 years hahaha . but if i can save it for now i will :thumbsup:

[John]

No I don't do new stones I'm not sure if its something that can be bought separately.

[Guest]

Just remember. The person who supplies my air brush stuff told me if the compressor is not working correctly in the compressor pump then you will get a build up of water. Not sure what the stone is but he said it was probably the rubber valve non return unit in the cylinder which was worn out.

From all that I have read it is not worth trying to repair. But if you are handy I suppose there is always a possibility.

Laurie

[Guest]

The filter stones are not your average Hardware store item.

You will need to hit a Jobber for the Automotive industry or an Industrial supplier for the Hydraulics, Plumbing, Air systems trade.

Anyone who deals in Moisture traps and regulators for Compressors.

A diaphragm compressor runs hot because

a. it is tired. Not lubricating well. Diaphragm piston is seizing up. etc.

b. it is not lubricated properly just because the oil is low.

c. it is allowed to run continuously.

d. it does not have adequate ventilation.

(This is why a reservoir (Tank) compressor can work better.)

Creating moisture internally is from excessively humid conditions and/or too high internal compressor temperature

as a result of the reasons stated above.

M1KS is correct (sorry I jumped on your post)

...if you are working in a high humidity environment, then compressing the air around you can result in higher condensation.

But even an excessively humid environment can be filtered with one properly functioning moisture trap.

Thats why I snubbed the idea of adding more filters.

As the "stone" filters in Moisture traps become more impregnated with oil and impurities, they start to hold on to moisture

which builds up and then is forced by the air pressure into the airbrush line. Its not allowed to collect in the trap itself.

I have used the air blower to dry out the stone as much as possible and then it can be "cooked" in the oven to dry it more.

* Don't microwave the stone. I think the "stones" are made from tiny metal beads. Might be harmful to your microwave.

If you think the compressor is old, and you can afford a new one, then maybe think about replacing it.

And you might think about a more expensive silent compressor with a tank.

I guess it depends on how much airbrushing you plan to do.

Since I am not a "model airbrusher" I don't know all the ins and outs with regard to your paints and techniques.

So I don't know what would justify a better, more expensive compressor (in your mind).

As an airbrush instructor its easy for me to suggest buying new and better equipment

...but its unfair to assume that all can afford the new equipment or really have enough of a need for it.

[Guest]

That is a great reply cut & fold & very interesting.

Stiil not sure what this stone is & where it is located in the compressor. I have taken one of my failed ones mostly apart but not seen this stone.

Could you explain cut&fold. Great if you can tell us your real name.

Laurie

[Guest]

Have you tried using the AB with no paint in the cup? Does water visibly come through?

BTW, what is that stone that you are speaking of?

[Guest]

"Stone" is what I have always called them.

Its that filter thingy that you can see inside the glass bell.

The little cylindrical filter inside the Moisture trap is actually made from tiny metal beads.

Maybe early ones were a porous stone?

Idea is that air can pass through it, but water gets caught and condenses until it falls to the bottom

of the housing that the "stone" is contained in.

(At least I think thats how they work?)

I know the rule is: a Moisture trap right at the outlet of your compressor.

Big enough for the size of your compressor.

And if your main line extends more than 25ft, then another Moisture trap at each outlet.

(or some guys add an inline trap right on their Tools)

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There are some larger Industrial size moisture traps that use large paper filters.

Some actually use a roll of toilet paper as a filter.

But all the small ones I have seen use a "stone" type filter.

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[Guest]

maybe some of my terminology is North American?

haha I just noticed this is a UK website.

Are all you guys from the UK?

lol

I never noticed before...I just found a scale model site with some info about Centurion Tanks

and I jumped right in without even looking!

I should pay more attention to where I post!

If it matters, I was born in Sutton-In-Ashfield...boyhood in London...moved to Canada in 1967.