Tiny White Spots using Vallejo Semi-mat Varnish

[Guest]

This problem is one I have had many times over the years.I used to get it whenever I used Humbrol matt clear enamel.When I tried Vallejo it worked perfectly,and I thought I had found the perfect matt varnish.But I've had the white patch problem on two models recently.Dont know if it's to do with a defective batch,but I threw the bottle away the first time it happened and bought another.Used on my last build and got white patches again.Going to try another make next

White spotting seems to be a problem of non-glossy varnish, no diubt connected with the white powder in ti to stop glossing.

In future I will always do a trial spray after every filling of the cup with non-matt varnish, to check. If spotting had occurred on the camo of my model I might have had to strip down and start again! Spotting on decals would not be good news.

[Guest]

Vallejo have replied already:

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Dear Steve,

Thanks for contacting us .

We just checked the batch number of the satin varnish(G-18-09) without any thinning and we do not see the white spots (normally white spots are matting agent not well dispersed in the product).

It’s also applied with a brush with the same good results.

Can you send us a photo showing the effect?

Saludos Cordiales

Best regards

Alex Vallejo

Acrylicos Vallejo, S.L.

Tel. + 34 93 893 60 12

Fax +34 93 893 11 54

info@acrylicosvallejo.com

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I sent them a high resolution photo of the spotty wing, and mentioned that others on this forum have had problems with various makes of the varnish.

Interestingly, they mention that their test was without thinning. I had thinned about 10% (using Vallejo thinner). I will do a test of the same bottle without thinner (and shaking and stirring really well and looking out for spout clumping, see below)).

Laurie mentioned paint in the spout. It could be that paint there could dry or thicken on the shelf, and shaking might not affect it, so that it would enter the cup, perhaps without it being noticed. The one blockage that I got in recent times (acrylic paint, mentioned in one of my posts above) was definitely caused by lumpy clumping in the spout—I could see it coming out but thought that thorough mixing with the brush in the cup would be enough to disperse it. More mixing and more vigilance needed!

BTW, I always wipe the spout before and after pouring, to remove flakes. But with a (good quality) kitchen paper towel. Using a cloth towel would be a problem. I have noticed that the wide top of Tamiya paint and varnish jars attract flaking in the threads and that seems to be asking for trouble.

[Guest]

Steve I normally just give a small test squirt before filling the cup to make sure there isn't any grot. Also give the inside of the cap a rinse in water if it look not nice.

Glad to see that Vallejo have not turned their back & given some silly answer as I got with Airfix.

Laurie

[Guest]

Matter of curiosity Steve I did a couple of test today. One matt & the other stain Vallejo varnish. The results were absolutely perfect & I hardly gave any rolling/shaking before applying.

Seems to me you either have a bad batch type (which Vallejo have not had notified to them before) or it is a condition to be found elsewhere. Apart from a bad batch bottle I have not had any problems. All my stuff is room temperature storage & application. What conditions are you airbrushing under ?

The white bit is strange. The Vallejo thinner is the same product they use in the paints & varnishes. Some time ago I puddled a bit & left to dry. It dried almost translucent, a slight film, & that was a large dollop so how white appears not sure. Have you tried with a brush putting on a thickish coat on a gash bit to see if the symptoms are present. If they are not I would suspect it is something to do with the airbrushing. Do you get any problems like this with the paint ?

One other possibility is the compressor. The old one I had a dismantled partly to find how it worked. I was surprised at the amount of junk around the valve part.

Laurie

[Guest]

Matter of curiosity Steve I did a couple of test today. One matt & the other stain Vallejo varnish. The results were absolutely perfect & I hardly gave any rolling/shaking before applying.Seems to me you either have a bad batch type (which Vallejo have not had notified to them before) or it is a condition to be found elsewhere. Apart from a bad batch bottle I have not had any problems. All my stuff is room temperature storage & application. What conditions are you airbrushing under ?

The white bit is strange. The Vallejo thinner is the same product they use in the paints & varnishes. Some time ago I puddled a bit & left to dry. It dried almost translucent, a slight film, & that was a large dollop so how white appears not sure. Have you tried with a brush putting on a thickish coat on a gash bit to see if the symptoms are present. If they are not I would suspect it is something to do with the airbrushing. Do you get any problems like this with the paint ?

One other possibility is the compressor. The old one I had a dismantled partly to find how it worked. I was surprised at the amount of junk around the valve part.

Laurie

I will try brushing. I didn't have any problems with Vallejo paint. My compressor was new in February and has been used for only three models, so is unlikely to be gunged up.

Some more matt black paint will arrive tomorrow and I will repaint areas affected by the spots (or rather the removel of the spots). Then I will do some tests of the Satin Varnish (both the old and a new purchase of it) on gash plastic before re-spraying the wings (and the rest of the model), keeping a close eye on the spraying as it progresses.

It is worrying that Dave W and BarryW have got white spots, in Dave's case with two different bottles of the varnish.

[Gern]

Laurie, I think you're lucky not to have had some sort of separation or clumping in your paints.

I bought some Vallejo paints recently on ebay and added a nut to help mix them (not sure now after reading this thread that that was such a good idea!). The nut sat on top of the thick paint that had accumulated at the top of the bottle. I had to use a metal rod to push it through so it could start to move and agitate the rest of the paint.

Gern

[Guest]

S

Laurie, I think you're lucky not to have had some sort of separation or clumping in your paints.I bought some Vallejo paints recently on ebay and added a nut to help mix them (not sure now after reading this thread that that was such a good idea!). The nut sat on top of the thick paint that had accumulated at the top of the bottle. I had to use a metal rod to push it through so it could start to move and agitate the rest of the paint.

I only use Vallejo Model Air Dave for air brushing & not had any clumping & as said earlier after looking the consistency is the same top to bottom without any agitation.

Vallejo Model is a different thing. They bulk up at the bottom. Use a dentist's vibrator mixer on low for 4 or 5 minutes & that does most of the trick. If not I have a paint stirrer with a round spade end which gets it moving.

If you get clumping Dave there is a problem & I would get onto Vallejo.

Laurie

[Gern]

Sorry, I should have said they were Model Colour.

I guess the clumping on the top means they weren't stored upright for a while. Having got them mixed, (like you, I have one of those dentist vibrators. I shake them manually to start the mixing process, then use the vibrator), I've had no problems.

Gern

[Guest]

Having removed the spots as mentioned (micromesh plus flicking off with the point of my craft knife), I applied a light coat of the near-black paint by smearing with my finger on the areas affected which were showing scuff marks. Smearing seems to be used with thick things like butter or ointment. In my case just a drop of paint on an area, then to spread it I rubbed my finger over it until it dried. After doing a test spray, I have now re-sprayed with Vallejo Satin varnish (but a different bottle just bought) and it looks OK, probably 90% of what it would have been without the fault.

The differences between the first (faulty) varnish job are: new batch of varnish, bottle shaken with a rattle nut until my arms ached, 15 PSI instead of 18, no thinning (following Vallejo's message). So I am no further ahead in understanding why the first job went wrong. In future I will always do a test—I don't trust non-clear varnish.

I haven't heard from Vallejo yet in reply to my second message (which they asked for along with a photo).

[Guest]

Interest Steve is the second bottle a different batch no. ?

With 0.4 needle/nozzle I use a bit higher for varnish about 25psi especially as it is gooey compared to the paints. But if it works you cannot argue.

Actually Steve Vallejo says do not shake roll the bottle. But as before if it works-------

Satin varnishing some parts tomorrow I will see how it goes.

Laurie

[Guest]

Interest Steve is the second bottle a different batch no. ?With 0.4 needle/nozzle I use a bit higher for varnish about 25psi especially as it is gooey compared to the paints. But if it works you cannot argue.

Actually Steve Vallejo says do not shake roll the bottle. But as before if it works-------

Satin varnishing some parts tomorrow I will see how it goes.

Laurie

Yes, a different batch. Tamiya glass jars are best for rolling 'cos you can see the bottom clearly. With their matt you can see it takes time for the white to mix properly.

[Guest]

If you use "glass" jars, could you make use of some of these, i use them to mix my acrylics and they seal air tight with a foil insert in the lid (Revell paint pot in for size comparison)

[ATTACH]74114.IPB[/ATTACH]


Pm me if needed.

[Guest]

If you use "glass" jars, could you make use of some of these, i use them to mix my acrylics and they seal air tight with a foil insert in the lid (Revell paint pot in for size comparison)[ATTACH]73603[/ATTACH]

Pm me if needed.

I have only once had to mix colours, for the "off black" for the underside of the Lanc, and I mixed three small batches for that as needed. However, for paint mixes that needs to be kept for more than a few days, yes, one of those glass jars would be just right. I will get some, and use foil.

[Guest]

PM me your address and I'll send you a few Steve. They're handy for keeping little bits in whilst you build a kit too.

*edit* they already have the foil inserts so usable straight away with no faffing :-)

[Guest]

PM me your address and I'll send you a few Steve. They're handy for keeping little bits in whilst you build a kit too.

Its OK, thanks. I have just had a root around and found several were included free in the compressor bundle that I bought 9 months ago. They are just the right size. For bits, I have one of those multi-compartment boxes with a clipped lid—my main weapon against the carpet monster.