"Painting" Canopies with Tape

[Guest]

I have removed the Eduard pre-cut masks from my 1/72 Lancaster and am disappointed in the quality of a little of the paint on the framework of the canopy and all of it on the turrets. I have been experimenting with sticking tape on the bare framework in an effort to get straight and sharp lines.

Here are two photos showing the front turret which had masks and a spare turret with tapes:

[ATTACH]74309.IPB[/ATTACH]


[ATTACH]74310.IPB[/ATTACH]


The tapes are certainly straight and sharp although in the photo they look too wide. However, to the bare eye they look much less wide although I could reduce the width a little. In the photo they are 1 mm wide. (1 mm in 1/72 scale is 72 mm (of course), 3 inches, which (from my original Lanc pictures) should be half that. John sells 0.4 mm tape but it is Tamiya-like.

I started with Tamiya tape, painting a 2 inch square with RAF camo Dark Green (acrylic) and cutting strips 1 mm wide. The tape did not stick enough, the paint tended to flake off and you could see the tape's thickness. Also, the yellow of the tape showed on the inner surfaces of the turret. Next I tried electricians tape, again painted. You need to stretch all tapes a little to get a straight line and this tape contracted back again. Finally, I used Scotch "Magic Tape" and that is what is in the second image. This is like Sellotape but is less strong (that's OK) did not stretch nor did the paint flake off. (I had used this method before in making a red band to go round a fuselage.) If I go with this method I will airbrush a coat of Klear (Pledge in UK) to strengthen the adherence and wearability of the tape.

It is quite fiddly to put on but probably no more than with Eduard masks.

Assuming that I reduce the width of the tape, what do you think? Worth pursuing?

[Ian M]

As you say the tape ones are the sharpest but are a bit 'chunky' maybe half as wide will work better.

A thing I have been playing with is the decal film you can buy, among other places in John's shop.

I paint a bit with the interior colour, then when dry the outside colour. When cured, a new scalpel can be used to cut the widths you need. A good thing is that the printer film is pretty tough and with the paint on has a thickness that works well as frames.

A final dip in "Klear" helps seal things down but watch out for pools forming in the corners.

I tried this out on the Sea Mosquito I posted a while back.

Ian M

[Guest]

The problem with tape, which I also have experimented with, is that a lot of canopies have raised framework & there is little chance of negotiating these especially at the junctions. I also found it did not look authentic it gives an ersatz appearance. To me cheap & cheerful plus you eye is driven to them which you certainly do not want.

Tried the pre cut masks & found those not to be to my liking.

Still, for me, the best method is the fiddly but satisfying task of taping each side of the frame. You will get a slight failure here & there (at least I do) & have to do a bit of touching up or even retape a section. At times frustrated by the result probably as I am intent on achieving perfection and also the fact that I am looking at it in great detail thro. magnifiers. But I have just had a squint at the canopies I have painted & they look fine & also in keeping with the rest of the paintwork.

I have found the "Micron" tape that John markets is much better than the Tamiya. Also being a darker yellow it is easier to distinguish the frame lines on the canopy. Try using for cutting a Personna Razor Blade (they have the thick steel backing) . They have a finer blade than the "Mortons" & are easier to use. Personna also do a retractable blade holder, window scraper, which in some cases makes it easier to use.

I also, as I am making models, feel very satisfied that it is my craftmanship on show & not Eduard masks.

As they say "horses for courses".

Laurie

[BarryW]

I had a lot of problems with canopies and the use of masks.

It improved when I thoroughly cleaned the transparency with IPA first to improve paint adhesion and used Parafilm M.

The Parafilm is a bit expensive but a roll is a good investment as it goes a long way and works out cheaper than buying Eduard masks.

The big advantage is that it is not sticky so there is no glue residue. It does take a lot of practice - there are videos on line that show you how to use it, but using this really turned around the results I get with canopies.

It is also useful in masking other surfaces such as metallics that cannot stand up to a sticky type of masking. Overall I have found it a great purchase.

[Guest]

The Parafilm is a bit expensive but a roll is a good investment as it goes a long way and works out cheaper than buying Eduard masks.

What is Parafilm Barry & how do you use it ? Do you make your own templates or do you sue it as an alternative to masking tape ?

Laurie

[stona]

It's a stretchy plastic film used for sealing laboratory bottles, tubes etc.

It comes in different sizes, I've got this.





Here I've separated the film from the backing (not sticky)



I don't use it much, I find it tricky. You 'activate' it for want of a better word by stretching it.

If you want to try some PM me your details and I'll pop a length in an envelope for you. At least that way if you don't like it you won't be out of pocket! If you find it the best thing since sliced bread you can invest in a roll.

Cheers

Steve

[BarryW]

Thanks Steve.

Laurie - it does take practice but when you master it its worth it.

As Steve says you cut off a small segment, remove it from its backing and then stretch it. You have to be careful to do this steadily or it will tear, you can stretch it quite a lot. It does 'curl' a bit and that can be a bit frustrating.

You wrap it all around a transparency over and under the sides. It needs a spot of burnishing into the corners with a soft tipped implement. Then with a very sharp new blade you cut around the frames and remove the frames. Funnily enough I found this process a lot easier with parafilm than Tammy tape for some reason. You do need a delicate touch with the knife though (not something I am known for so if I can do it so can anyone!)

It is then ready to spray the cockpit interior colour and then the camo colour.

I leave it at least 24 hours before removing the parafilm for the paint to cure. I then use a cocktail stick, with the tip cut to a wedge shape, to lift the parafilm edge and remove it. When done you can tidy up where needed with some IPA on a cocktail stick or a very small Tammy cotton bud. I recommend it.

PS - I love Vallejo Primer but whatever you do, don't use it on masked canopies. The paint is tougher than normal acrylic and a bit 'rubbery' so it is more likely for the paint on the frame to come away with the masking.

[Guest]

…..

If you want to try some PM me your details and I'll pop a length in an envelope for you. At least that way if you don't like it you won't be out of pocket! If you find it the best thing since sliced bread you can invest in a roll.

Cheers

Steve

Thanks for the offer. But how do I send a PM? Is it the same as a conversation?

[Guest]

As you say the tape ones are the sharpest but are a bit 'chunky' maybe half as wide will work better.A thing I have been playing with is the decal film you can buy, among other places in John's shop.

I paint a bit with the interior colour, then when dry the outside colour. When cured, a new scalpel can be used to cut the widths you need. A good thing is that the printer film is pretty tough and with the paint on has a thickness that works well as frames.

A final dip in "Klear" helps seal things down but watch out for pools forming in the corners.

I tried this out on the Sea Mosquito I posted a while back.

Ian M

Thanks. But, after painting both sides of the film in the two colours, how do you get it to stick to the framework?

[stona]

Thanks for the offer. But how do I send a PM? Is it the same as a conversation?

I think so

Steve

[Guest]

I think so Steve

I have started a Conversation with you!

[Guest]

Thanks Steve very nice of you this is going to cost you a fortune.

Matter of interest, as I if you do not have any, I have a Berna Clamp you can have to try out ie not needed back.

Laurie

[Guest]

Thanks Laurie, but I do have a couple. I haven't used them yet, lacking a suitable model to try them on.

[Guest]

Apologies Steve (Kir) actually

I had a lot of problems with canopies and the use of masks.It improved when I thoroughly cleaned the transparency with IPA first to improve paint adhesion and used Parafilm M.

The Parafilm is a bit expensive but a roll is a good investment as it goes a long way and works out cheaper than buying Eduard masks.

The big advantage is that it is not sticky so there is no glue residue. It does take a lot of practice - there are videos on line that show you how to use it, but using this really turned around the results I get with canopies.

It is also useful in masking other surfaces such as metallics that cannot stand up to a sticky type of masking. Overall I have found it a great purchase.

Thanks for your time on this one Barry. Going to have a try seems a great way through this some times fraught matter.

Laurie

[Guest]

Thanks. But, after painting both sides of the film in the two colours, how do you get it to stick to the framework?

If I am reading this correctly Steve you have the wrong end of the stick.

You do not paint the film. You cut out the frame from the Parfilm covering the whole of the canopy. Then apply the inside paint colour to the frame then on top of that the external frame colour. Both colours being on the outside of the canopy.

Laurie