Canopy painting???

[BarryW]

I have often used masks and never had paint creep. Initially I did have a problem with the frame paint coming away with the masks but that is largely over come by:

1/ Cleaning the canopy with i.p.a. first.

2/ NOT using primer as I find it a bit more rubbery than my normal Vallejo

3/ By carefully using a cocktail stick around the edges of a frame, pushing the mask into the centre first.

You do have to burnish down around the edges though.

The main problem with masks (and Tammy tape) is glue residue. These days I mostly use Parafilm M which is a large initial outlay but longer term is a very cheap option, it needs practise too..... if you are not careful you can score the transparency when cutting around the edges but there is no glue residue at all.

[flyjoe180]

I've not noticed any problems with Tamiya tape leaving residue Barry. I've had models with the mask left on for months before removal. Then again it is probably more noticeable on the larger scales with which you work, when compared to the 1/72 scale I work with?

[BarryW]

Thats true Joe.

[stona]

Very rarely have any residue from Tamiya tape and I too leave it on for considerable periods. Any residue is easily removed with a cotton bud moistened with alcohol. Klear can be re-applied using the same method. I can't remember the last time I had to do it!

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

I am not a fan of Tamiya. Found in certain cases apart from canopies that Tamiya leaves a residue especially on matt paint. On canopies where it has been well "ironed on" I suspect it is inevitable that there is something left on in most case not noticeable.

But I have found sometimes that paint does not like areas where Tamiya has been.

I have been using the Micron tape which John supplies in the shop. Found it much more flexible and smoother and sits down well on to paint or clear plastic. Not sure that it is any better or worse than Tamiya as far as residue is concerned.

I bet Paul you did not expect this coverage on what appears to be a simple question with so much in the way of sophisticated replies. You could not get that from Wickipedia or any other forum I have looked at. Or have received so much information, some of which is not contradictory but certainly varied, without silly arguments as to which is best. In essence there is not a best you just a varied and expansive view of years of experience.

Laurie

[Peej]

You guys have been so helpful. Thank you all. So pleased I joined the forum.

[flyjoe180]

I am not a fan of Tamiya. Found in certain cases apart from canopies that Tamiya leaves a residue especially on matt paint.

Again, not ever noticed this. It must have a lot to do with the paints we use.

[flyjoe180]

Yeah, sorry to go off topic so much Paul, but glad you are getting the information you are after.

[Guest]

Not sure if its been suggested or not (too tired to read) but i was informed about maskol today and there's a vid on youtube about it and it does show it being used on a canopy to great effect.


http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000JCE6AO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o02_s00


Jason

[Guest]

After trying a few types my thoughts on that Jason are. If you have a hand steady enough to paint on maskol you have a hand steady enough to paint the canopy framework.


Most maskols I have used with one exception are not easy to paint as they do not flow easily as paint does. I found it very difficult to get a straight line.


The exception I have found is Masque who do one with a nib type applicator the other a brush. Problem is with them they clog up if you do not quickly replace the stopper. Fo bits os masking where it is difficult, very tight rounded corners etc, Maskol does come in handy.


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Masquepen-Masking-Fluid/dp/B0026A1W7W. Not many outlets. It is a Cottage Type Industry and my impression is they want to sell the stuff direct and thereby retain as much profit as possible. May be short sighted as it does not then get the publicity.


Laurie


PS intrigued by your occupation amusing.

[Robert1968]

Masking is defo the way to go as a lot of other modellers do but I have found a new way to mask ( tip from Airfix model mag ) and that's to use bare metal foil it is similar to paint masks but you encase canopy and with sharp blade cut around the frames. Doesn't leave residue on canopy once removed and overpaint can be picked with toothpick. It's available on eBay and cheaper than aftermarket pre cut masks. It's a possible way forward

[Guest]

I have very shaky hands and I find that humbrol maskol painted on, then lft to dry paint the canopy but before you just pull the masking fluid off go round the edges with a new shap no11 blade, once you've done this the maskol will come off without taking paint with it.


scott

[Guest]

Try using Tamiya masking tape and cutting out the frame with a sharp #11 blade along the framing. Alternatively, Eduard does masks for frames for basically every single aircraft around. Fast frames by true details are had to find, but are also a good alternative


John

[Guest]

What I usually do is, once the plane is made, the last thing I do is paint the canopy, this is once its glued down, I get a fine brush ( Or an old one cut down to the right size) and paint it, but I make sure there is hardly any paint on the brush, if the paintbrush is almost dry but still has paint on it, do it in layers, hope this helps :P