I'm getting back into building models after years off and enjoying it. So much has changed with new stuff to make models look better. One thing I have become aware off is people are using washes to enhance details. Before I go out and spend loads on washes ( a stockman doesn't get paid loads) I was wondering if paint thinned downed a lot would give satisfactory results? I was thinking of painting it on then wiping off the excess with a small sponge so only paint remains in the recesses. I use acrylics and brush paint.
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I'll be interested in any responses here. At some point soon I will be painting my lancaster. Do I use washes on top of a gloss finish or do I spray the panel lines first? Flory recently sprayed panel lines. When does one do each of these? -
i gave up on premade washes.....either didnt work or were too expensive to try
depending on what i want the wash for i use either enamel paint thinned with ordinary white spirit or oil paint thinned with odourless oil thinners
you didnt say what you were going to using the wash on....as always, experiment on something else first so you dont cock up the proper thingPer Ardua
We'll ride the spiral to the end and may just go where no ones beenComment
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I'm making ww2 aircraft in 1/72 scale until I feel confident to move up to something bigger, so if I try something and it doesn't work I can always repaint.Originally posted by \Comment
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I also use oil paint thinned with either white spirit or lighter fluid for quicker drying times. Always apply a wash over a gloss coat.
There's 2 schools of thought with washes - an overall one or a pin wash. The overall one is quicker, but requires a lot of cleaning up, the colour of the base coat will be slightly darkened.
A pin wash is applied with a very small brush in the panel lines & any excess can be easily wiped away with a paper towel & cotton buds.
For prices, Ryman do an excellent set of 12 oils in various colours for £3.99, hit Wilkco's or a Poundshop for the white spirit & you've got many washes for the same price as a Humbrol ready mixed one!
Pre-shading panel lines goes on after the primer & before any camo colours, or you can post-shade once the camo is done, but that's much more tricky to get right.
Cheers
PatrickComment
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This what you were thinking of, Patrick?
http://www.ryman.co.uk/royal-langnickel-bold-oil-pack-of-12Comment
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i dont like the overall method on aircraft, prefer the precision of the pin wash.....now armour, thanks a whole different kettle of fish lolPer Ardua
We'll ride the spiral to the end and may just go where no ones beenComment
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ive found that cheap oils can cause problems....specially if you are using them for a spot filter, but i did find some good quality ones in The Range...set of 24 for less than a fiver......didnt want half of them so gave them away to an artist friend....the colours i kept, the tubes will last me years and yearsPer Ardua
We'll ride the spiral to the end and may just go where no ones beenComment
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I've used all the types there are, my last build the Viper Mk VII I used a pin wash and was pleased with that, but I have also had good results with entire washes with oil paints, may be worth noting that Winsor and Newton do a water mixable one now , I find it easier on the nose than using white spirit etc. I have MIG washes which work very well but there are many out there now for a lot less. The main thing to remember is do some then walk away and come back later, you can always build it up when you have fresh eyes on your build
AdrianComment
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That's the one Alistair. Mine was a pound cheaper with different packaging. I've had a £40 set of Windsor & Newton oils before & the Ryman ones are almost as good.Originally posted by \Comment
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I have used Flory Washes, once, but did not like the episode at all. Found that as they are water bound the surface tension of the water mad it difficult to get an overall cover.
Turned to Vallejo washes which I found were much easier to manipulate and although water based they have something added to reduce surface tension. Just to confirm that my experience is mostly 1/48 aircraft. Found you have to be careful and get at the wash to remove those bits not needed as soon as they are just dry or, although not completely permanent, you have to resort to thinners. Found it imperative to ensure the top coat to receive the wash is very well cured.
Used the washes to pick out panel lines and also around detail where dirt is picked up etc on the dry side ie the leeward side of a fitting. Also use a thinned wash to tone down the pristine look of the top coat and also attempt at staining.
LaurieComment
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Laurie a cocktail stick of washing up liquid would break down the water tension and allow your Flory washes to stick better .Originally posted by \
AdrianComment
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Just re-read your question Paul. Typical did not address al your queries.
First Vallejo wash is cheap as cheap. I usually only use a grey wash.
Second although an airbrusher i use hand brushing for washes as it give a better random effect. Also is small section as it gets out of hand with drying times.
I use little sponges on a stick which the clay models makers use plus the baby cotton wool things.
Found it a good idea to have a practice at all this as it brings dividends and curbs frustration. A bit.
LaurieComment
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Thanks Adrian a good tip.Originally posted by \
LaurieComment
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Hi Paul, I recently tried those cheap poster color that can be thinned with water. It works quite well because you can easily clean it up with wet cotton bud or even dry cotton bud. Make sure you gloss coat before washing. Hope it helpsComment
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