Acrylic or enamel?

[stona]

Great comment Dave, and very informative.


You also raise that perennial old chestnut of thinning ratios and pressures. It is entirely understandable that those new to airbrushing will seek advice about these most important criteria, whatever paints they are using. It is also important to understand that whilst some general and helpful advice can and always will be given by the members here, it is impossible to give exact or precise figures.


Whether you use acrylic or enamel paints, whichever brand and whatever airbrush set up, there is no substitute for experimentation. You just have to work out what works best for you.


For example, I spray my enamels thinned anywhere from 60/40 to 40/60, depending on the individual paint, at about 35-40 psi. I never measure anything exactly, I just go by 'feel' developed over the years. The compressor pressure is set on the standard cheap valve and must be, by definition, approximate. These valves are definitely not precision instruments! Others will find something completely different works for them, no matter which paints they use.


I do find as I read online forums that there is a tendency to over think the issues. As another example, I often apply the dreaded by many Luftwaffe mottle to my models and have read all sorts of advice on how to do this. Lower the pressure, thin the pint more, build up several coats etc, etc. I just spray it like anything else and I'm sure this would work for most other so called special finishes or effects


Cheers


Steve

[Guest]

As I have mentioned many times in the past, when it comes to paint I would not limit myself to one particular type. As has been seen from the many experiences above, each type of paint, and even each different manufacturer, has it's own strengths and weaknesses so they should be used accordingly. Acrylics tend to be a thinner film so tend to show detail better but enamels defenately give a better high gloss finish so may be easier to get the perfect finish for car and motorcycle bodywork. These different qualities also lend the paints to be better for different techniques, for instance acrylics tend to dry too fast to be the best for dry brushing so I nealy always use enamels for that. There is also of course oils, which are by far the best media for washes so my learnings over the years has led me to the bottom line of use what ever paint is best for the thing you are doing and don't limit yourself to one type.

[Guest]

I have seen the term "dry brushing" mentioned a number of times in different threads. Could somebody please tell me what it is. Cheers


Keith

[Guest]

I have seen the term "dry brushing" mentioned a number of times in different threads. Could somebody please tell me what it is. Cheers
Keith

it's a technique to highlight raised area like cockpit. I use paintbrush and then dry the excess paint with paper towel then apply it to the model. Maybe someone more experience and better english could explain it better something like this [ATTACH]101261.IPB[/ATTACH]

[Guest]

it's a technique to highlight raised area like cockpit. I use paintbrush and then dry the excess paint with paper towel then apply it to the model. Maybe someone more experience and better english could explain it better something like this [ATTACH]111237[/ATTACH]

Thanks Leo, I think I have got it now. Cheers.


Keith

[Guest]

it's a technique to highlight raised area like cockpit. I use paintbrush and then dry the excess paint with paper towel then apply it to the model. Maybe someone more experience and better english could explain it better something like this [ATTACH]111237[/ATTACH]

Perfect explanation in great English Leo.


I also use a very very thin wash which gives a similar effect.


Laurie

[stona]

The important thing to remember when dry brushing is that your brush should have virtually no paint in it at all, hence the name. I use a short haired flat brush, pick up some paint and then wipe on some kitchen roll until it seems all the paint has been removed...it hasn't. You can always go over a surface several times to build up the desired effect. If you apply to much paint first time you are going to have to start again!


Cheers


Steve

[Guest]

[ATTACH]101281.IPB[/ATTACH]

I was unhappy with some of the primer coat on my Apollo Saturn V so I rubbed down the rough parts and painted them again, just a thin coat with a brush. However, the same thing has happened again, it's gone all wrinkly. Any ideas anyone?

[Guest]

As it has happened in the same place ie twice I would have thought it is something on the plastic which is having an adverse effect on the paint.


Did you wipe anything on the plastic before painting it Keith. Looks like the same effect as paint remover.


To make sure on the paint scene try some on an old plastic bottle.


Laurie

[Guest]

As it has happened in the same place ie twice I would have thought it is something on the plastic which is having an adverse effect on the paint.
Did you wipe anything on the plastic before painting it Keith. Looks like the same effect as paint remover.


To make sure on the paint scene try some on an old plastic bottle.


Laurie

As it happens I have painted some on a plastic bottle prior to giving it a couple of coats of white gloss in preparation for testing masking tape on it .


The bottle took it fine, nice and smooth. I will rub down the wrinkly bit again on the model, give it a good clean with soapy then clear water, dab it dry and try again.


Thanks for the advice

[Gern]

Like Steve said, add paint to your brush then wipe 99% of it off on a cloth or tissue. As you brush over the surface of your kit, any sharp raised bits will scrape off the tiny bit of paint left on the bristles. This means only the raised edges get any paint on them and are therefore highlighted. It's particularly effective in cockpits where you won't be able to paint all the individual switches and panel edges, but they will stand out against the background colour.

[flyjoe180]

For example, I spray my enamels thinned anywhere from 60/40 to 40/60, depending on the individual paint

You can get major differences in consistencies within a brand's line of paints. I use Humbrol enamels and usually thin in a ratio not too far of Steve's mixture. Sometimes it's add a drop or two more thinners, sometimes a drop or two more paint depending on the colour. It really is personal preference.

[BarryW]

As it happens I have painted some on a plastic bottle prior to giving it a couple of coats of white gloss in preparation for testing masking tape on it .
The bottle took it fine, nice and smooth. I will rub down the wrinkly bit again on the model, give it a good clean with soapy then clear water, dab it dry and try again.


Thanks for the advice

May I suggest, if you have some, wiping it down with some ipa after the wash just as a belt and braces while also using some disposable plastic gloves to prevent finger grease contaminating the surface.

[Guest]

May I suggest, if you have some, wiping it down with some ipa after the wash just as a belt and braces while also using some disposable plastic gloves to prevent finger grease contaminating the surface.

Thanks for that Barry.

[Guest]

As it has happened in the same place ie twice I would have thought it is something on the plastic which is having an adverse effect on the paint.
Did you wipe anything on the plastic before painting it Keith. Looks like the same effect as paint remover.


To make sure on the paint scene try some on an old plastic bottle.


Laurie

Okay, I rubbed down the wrinkles until smooth as a baby's bum, down to bare plastic in this case, gave it a good clean and re-primed. Success! Thanks again Laurie, I am putting you on speed dial!