Paint's too thin / not sticking to the plastic.

[Gern]

For white I always use one coat of Halfords white primer spray and one coat of their Appliance white. Coverage is always 100% and the detail isn't covered as there are only two thin layers. The only problem is the masking because you don't have much control over the amount of paint sprayed from a can.

[Guest]

I haven't looked at the links so forgive me if I'm way wrong, this reminds me of brush painting Tamiya. You have to let the 1st coat dry before even touching. It again with more paint, using the right brush and one pass at a time. The solvent is so potent that when a coat goes on the solvent evaporates real quick and the if you touch it with fresh paint again it comes back off. You have to wait for it to cure and hit it again in one nice pass with. The right brush again.


Like I say maybe I missed the real problem here but I'm just pointing something that reminded me of your description out.

[Guest]

Shook it and got a matchstick in about it for a good 15minz, no improvement.
No i did not. Good job im using enamels and not acrylics, a good bath in soapy water should remove any agent shouldn't it?


Side thought, that would only stop the first coat going down, but it wouldn't effect the second+ coats?

Could be you are thinning it too much. Take down the thinning ratio and try again

[Guest]

I haven't looked at the links so forgive me if I'm way wrong, this reminds me of brush painting Tamiya. You have to let the 1st coat dry before even touching. It again with more paint, using the right brush and one pass at a time. The solvent is so potent that when a coat goes on the solvent evaporates real quick and the if you touch it with fresh paint again it comes back off. You have to wait for it to cure and hit it again in one nice pass with. The right brush again.
Like I say maybe I missed the real problem here but I'm just pointing something that reminded me of your description out.

Tamiya is awful to brush paint-I never use it for brush painting. It is only useful for abing

[Guest]

No, the top bottom coat could still have some residue that will transfer to the top coat. Question: is the paint old? Could be that the pigment will not mix with the carrier properly, maybe get a new tin and try again.

It was bought about a week ago and doesnt look old, but i guess you cant really tell.

It will give a better second coat , if your brush painting it's best to thin your paint and put about three thin coats on , I use one of those syringes you get in calpol the kids medicine, I use between 5 and 10 ml depending on the thickness of the paint

If i thinned this paint i fear it would have less consistency than water :P As it is, its more like blood.

Never liked Humbrol paints. There are much better modelling paints on the market these days. Get some decent paint and give it another go after you have made sure that the parts are clean. Good luck Jason

Im using Revell Altho! i did have a humbrol matt that after 30minz of mixing!!!!! applied as gloss.

I haven't looked at the links so forgive me if I'm way wrong, this reminds me of brush painting Tamiya. You have to let the 1st coat dry before even touching. It again with more paint, using the right brush and one pass at a time. The solvent is so potent that when a coat goes on the solvent evaporates real quick and the if you touch it with fresh paint again it comes back off. You have to wait for it to cure and hit it again in one nice pass with. The right brush again.
Like I say maybe I missed the real problem here but I'm just pointing something that reminded me of your description out.

Tbh, i cant do one brush stroke that's good enough to let it dry, i need to go over it a second time, or at least go over it a bit :\.

Could be you are thinning it too much. Take down the thinning ratio and try again

Not thinned it at all, dunking my brush right into the tin lol.

White is a PITA to get down well. I always prime before painting white for that very reason. No fancypants primer either, just Poundlands finest which is excellent IMHO.
As Alan says, mixing is 90% of the battle. To save my aching hands I use a homemade battery mixer made from a nasal trimmer (courtesy of Poundland again!)

That's quite kool :P i could do with something like that, i used to shake the paint violently but there's something wrong with my right wrist atm, started weightlifting and i think all those broken wrists over the years have hindered that so i need to use my left hand or a thin bit of bamboo from the garden lol.


Conclusion: As its enamel it wont hurt to wash the sprues and painted parts as they are not water based paints, so i will do that!


I do have an airbrush which i might just use to get a nice white coverage if the cleaning doesn't help. I am really trying to get my brush skills up tho and airbrushing seems like cheating (Altho i will need it for camo's)


So wash the sheat out of it then stir the feck out of the white for an hour :P


Ill get back to you all once iv tried that.


[EDIT] Gave them a wash in warm soapy water with a toothbrush, some of the painted stuff lost a coat but somehow kept its opacity, which is great, ill leave them at the window to air-dry while i drown myself in coffee and smoke myself stupid. Ill update yous later once i get to painting. Ill also stir, shake, throw and generally molest the paint tin to make sure its not that. If it is ill see about getting a replacement. Im sure they wont want me to post a half finished 14ml tin back to them through the post so if nothing else i can use it for odd jobs.

[Guest]

Also, would this be fine for priming/white coat for interiors? (Has anyone use it/what was the result)


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rustoleum-AE0040028E8-400ml-Surface-Primer/dp/B001W03PSQ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1438943544&sr=8-10&keywords=Primer


I was going to get a rust red one as well for a base undercoat for exterior that i could maskall over and put down a base coat, should give a nice undercoat while allowing me to have a rust undercoat if i needed it.

[Guest]

I've used Rustoleum rattle cans before & they're ok.


From a can in light colours, I'd recommend Tamiya Fine Surface Primer or Mr Surfacer 1200 - although they absolutely stink, so a well ventilated area is a must!


For more control, try Tamiya white through an airbrush - it gives excellent coverage.

[Ian M]

First off, white is always a pain in the bum regardless of type of paint or brand. So you are not alone on that one.


Although not all do it, I recommend a wash in warm soapy water and leave to dry.


Prime. Again not all do it, but if you are having issues, its the next best place to start.


Once primed leave it alone to cure for at least a day or two. It might feel dry, but it needs time to harden.


Paints, any paints need to be totally mixed. When you have done that, mix them some more.


Enamel paints keep almost indefinitely. I have some that at 40 years old and work just fine. They are only really dead if they have dried up in the tinlet, so always wipe the rim before putting the lid on.


If needed thin the paint and paint on the subject. let it dry and cure. If not 100% hardened you risk dragging the previous coat of when you apply the new one....


Also worth mentioning, especially in the warmer months. Sweaty fingerprints and paint dont mix. Either dont touch the surfaces to be painted, or wear a glove. Latex or cotton (watch out for fluff!).


These are my thoughts on it and Everybody has there own preferences so expect others to come with a solution totally different to my ideas.


As a by the bye, Humbrol paints are in the process of bringing production back to the UK after their sales plummeted as fast as the complaints rose. They admitted that it was not the best idea they have had. So Humbrol paints are only going to get better...If only they could bring back their Authentic range...


Ian M

[Guest]

If you are going to 'molest' the paint tin... At least you know it comes off easy.

[Guest]

As said before has another paint colour or another paint manufacturer's paint been tried ?


That will eliminate almost all the problems at least it will reduce the number of reasons for the problem.


This would be my number one if I had problems.


All paints produced are under 99% of circumstances going to perform whether they are Revell Humbrol Vallejo how ever much you love or hate them etc.


There is either a paint manufacturers problem (try another manufacturer's paint) or a problem with the surface the paint is applied to (try another surface other than the present model).


This eliminates those 2 major possibilities. Cannot think of another.


Laurie

[flyjoe180]

I use Humbrol enamel paints almost exclusively. Some of the newer tins are very thick and brush on very nicely; others, particularly the tins produced outside of the UK, are very thin and will require many coats. Stir until you cannot stir any longer. Stir the tin frequently during painting or mixing. Avoid dipping your brush into the tin directly as this will cause issues around the tin lip when you put the lid back on. If you are brush painting put the lid back on when not in use, or place the lid into some thinners. This keeps the tin sealed, or the lid clean.


Apply thin layers whether you are airbrushing or brush painting, and slowly build up the colour. I frequently dip the brush in thinners if I am brush painting to moisten the bristles, this helps to keep the spread even. Colours such as white, red, yellow and some other bright shades are very translucent by nature. You just have to be patient. A good base of primer is required for these paints. For bright colours I usually prime using a white, for darker colours the usual grey primer will suffice.


On my Hawk build I have had this very issue with red. The satin signal red colour is quite difficult to apply and build up to a solid colour. The solution was to use flat red over the primer, and once that was dry, apply the signal red over the top.


Good luck.

[Guest]

First off, white is always a pain in the bum regardless of type of paint or brand. So you are not alone on that one.
Although not all do it, I recommend a wash in warm soapy water and leave to dry.


Prime. Again not all do it, but if you are having issues, its the next best place to start.


Once primed leave it alone to cure for at least a day or two. It might feel dry, but it needs time to harden.


Paints, any paints need to be totally mixed. When you have done that, mix them some more.


Enamel paints keep almost indefinitely. I have some that at 40 years old and work just fine. They are only really dead if they have dried up in the tinlet, so always wipe the rim before putting the lid on.


If needed thin the paint and paint on the subject. let it dry and cure. If not 100% hardened you risk dragging the previous coat of when you apply the new one....


Also worth mentioning, especially in the warmer months. Sweaty fingerprints and paint dont mix. Either dont touch the surfaces to be painted, or wear a glove. Latex or cotton (watch out for fluff!).


These are my thoughts on it and Everybody has there own preferences so expect others to come with a solution totally different to my ideas.


As a by the bye, Humbrol paints are in the process of bringing production back to the UK after their sales plummeted as fast as the complaints rose. They admitted that it was not the best idea they have had. So Humbrol paints are only going to get better...If only they could bring back their Authentic range...


Ian M

Hey Ian. Yeah i washed them in warm soapy water, let them air dry at the window and wore a glove, it has made an effect altho tbh i think my sweaty fingerprints and general hand oil being washed off had something to do with that I do leave it to cure for a day or two but it has been really warm and where i work i have a rather large window that focuses the sun and just starts cooking everything in the house so gloves are a must atm.


About humbrol, NICE! i do love the cheap tins of enamel paints because sometimes a large tin would only be needed for a small job ect, but if they are going to improve thats good, few iv got are matt and end up gloss with loads of mixing :S anyway yay!

If you are going to 'molest' the paint tin... At least you know it comes off easy.

HA! In spain they say molest instead of interfere with, same with some places iv been in america. "No molesty!" haha

As said before has another paint colour or another paint manufacturer's paint been tried ?
That will eliminate almost all the problems at least it will reduce the number of reasons for the problem.


This would be my number one if I had problems.


All paints produced are under 99% of circumstances going to perform whether they are Revell Humbrol Vallejo how ever much you love or hate them etc.


There is either a paint manufacturers problem (try another manufacturer's paint) or a problem with the surface the paint is applied to (try another surface other than the present model).


This eliminates those 2 major possibilities. Cannot think of another.


Laurie

Iv only got revell matt and gloss whites and those both have issues with me, i did clean the model and used a glove, it helped when it came to the second coat, but first coat still sucks, dont want to get more white paints if they are the same, ya know?

I use Humbrol enamel paints almost exclusively. Some of the newer tins are very thick and brush on very nicely; others, particularly the tins produced outside of the UK, are very thin and will require many coats. Stir until you cannot stir any longer. Stir the tin frequently during painting or mixing. Avoid dipping your brush into the tin directly as this will cause issues around the tin lip when you put the lid back on. If you are brush painting put the lid back on when not in use, or place the lid into some thinners. This keeps the tin sealed, or the lid clean.
Apply thin layers whether you are airbrushing or brush painting, and slowly build up the colour. I frequently dip the brush in thinners if I am brush painting to moisten the bristles, this helps to keep the spread even. Colours such as white, red, yellow and some other bright shades are very translucent by nature. You just have to be patient. A good base of primer is required for these paints. For bright colours I usually prime using a white, for darker colours the usual grey primer will suffice.


On my Hawk build I have had this very issue with red. The satin signal red colour is quite difficult to apply and build up to a solid colour. The solution was to use flat red over the primer, and once that was dry, apply the signal red over the top.


Good luck.

Stir stir and more stirring lol, Yeah a few of them are really thick so i must have gotten some imported watery white. I have at times just used some turps to soften the paint after its on to get any over painted part / brush strokes down and more even, but you really cant turps the white, its already very runny and doesn't seem to want to stick to the surface.


I think ill get some battery powered mixer thing because if it is a consistency problem it should reduce stirring time a lot. I do dunk the brush into the tin but i am careful not to get it around the edges, that being said my matt black is in a disgraceful state :P


What i have seen tho, is that over time the thinning agent in the paint will evaporate causing the paint to get thicker, maybe i should just leave the white open for a while while stirring it every 10minz? Normally with a thicker paint, after i get to the end of the tin its thicker due to being open for a long time i thin it with turps and its great, could do the opposite with the watery white lol. o.0

[Guest]

Do not know what to advise Jason. Think every one has gone through all the things to do.


If it was me I would do what I always do and do not have any problems. Wet and dry with water the surface.


Wash in soapy water and double rinse to get rid of washing up liquid. Thoroughly dry for enamels.


Prime. Get a new batch of paint and thinners. Ensure each paint coat is dry before the next.


You have covered all options then (I think).


Laurie

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I saw someone use scotch bright on a car body before they primed it, perhaps you could try this?


Other than that everyone's covered all the other options.


On the subject of washing sprues, never done it in 5 years never had an issue, most kits aren't covered in demoulding gunk any more, Flory was actually asked if he washed any kits and his reply was, unless there is a pool of gunk in the bag like the old Trumpeter kits, no.


Adrian

[Guest]

I saw someone use scotch bright on a car body before they primed it, perhaps you could try this?
Other than that everyone's covered all the other options.


On the subject of washing sprues, never done it in 5 years never had an issue, most kits aren't covered in demoulding gunk any more, Flory was actually asked if he washed any kits and his reply was, unless there is a pool of gunk in the bag like the old Trumpeter kits, no.


Adrian

They do this on real cars as well mate on the base coats if not metallic. I'd be happy with some micro mesh maybe 3200 ish but... I'm not a primer expert and maybe you could go down one grade