After earning some overtime money, i decided to treat myself to some Winsor & Newton series 7 brushes and see what all the fuss is about, i did balk a bit when i saw they were £7 each, but in for a penny and all that, decided to get number's 0,1,2. Well i used them (no.1) in anger for the first time last night on a bust and wow they are pretty impressive. Holds paint well, but only release as much paint as you 'paint' if that makes sense, they dont flood the details but hold the point al the time, and they just feel smooth when painting. Glad i took the 'expensive' plunge, well worth it.
-
-
Look after them, and they'll last forever, never let any warm or even hot water near them!!! -
After a while give them a dip in hair conditioner every now and then (just like washing your hair, which, for me, doesn't seem to take long at all these days). After all, they are hair.Comment
-
That's not a bad idea!Comment
-
I've bought some brushes that I felt were the best thing ever when new and got badly worn after just being used for an hour so I felt a bit stupid for thinking they were the ducks guts...
Although I agree that Winsor & Newton is the best brand I actually prefer Rotmarder-Kolinsky Springer Pinsel and their triangular brushes for scale modelling. They do wear out eventually, especially when used for weathering on a rough surface, but they are cheap-ish and I've got different ones for different paints and I only clean them in cellulose thinner.
They cost £3-4 so they are a cheaper option.
Comment
-
Jens,
I don't know if I'm right but I'd think cleaning them with whatever you'd thin the paint with (e.g. isopropanol for Tamiya then a good rinse in clean water; water and mild detergent for Vallejo; white spirit for enamels etc.) would be better. Cellulose thinner seems a bit harsh to me.
TomComment
-
Cellulose thinner is the most common brush cleaner there is AFAIK. My mother (who's an oil paint artist) only uses cellulose thinner and it doesn't eat real sable hair.
My brushes often pick up various paints and materials on the brush when weathering and isopropanol doesn't get rid of pigments or other paints as good whereas cellulose thinner does.
You don't leave the brush in the thinner though, only dip it in a jar, shake it a bit and then out and wipe dry on kitchen paper. So far it hasn't affected my brushes, or I don't think so at least?
It did totally ruin a brush I had that was made with artificial bristles/hair but I don't buy those brushes any longer.Comment
-
Maybe Swedish cellulose thinner is milder than ours Jens. I've cleaned brushes with it, to remove Maskol, and it destroyed the bristles.
I use "The Masters Brush Cleaner", a kind of soap, which even removes dried enamel if left to work for a while, and includes a conditioner.
PeteComment
-
I too invested in a set of Wnsor and Newton series 7 brushes, money well spent. Always clean them after use with the -Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver- expensive but does the job.Comment
-
A beautiful brush, I think one one the most important things is, its a brush for fine detail, and needs treating with respect.
Think we each have our favorite make, I've tried several makes, Rosemary , ProArt 007 but for me W& N for detailed work.
John .Comment
-
I tend to be pretty hard on my brushes so I buy the cheapest I can find. Here in Canada we have Royal and Langnickel brushes that cost about $4 each say 2 pounds 50. Often you can buy a prepackaged set of 4 different small brushes for about $10-$12 (about 7-8 pounds). Washed with white spirit, isopro, water, alcohol or lighter fluid depending on what I am using as paint. But then again I find washing my tongue in alcohol also helps.
JohnComment
-
Snap, done the same journey John, I have the series 7 on birthday and Christmas present lists, for anyone who asks.
Its taken 5 years to wear 2 x "0" brushes out, one is now a wash brush, the oldest is demoted to pigments, so they do live on in another role
£7 a brush for size 0 is a pretty good deal these days
Steve HComment
-
I'm like John and wear out brushes pretty quickly, which means going for a cheap option. That said, my preferred Pro-Arte brushes suit me the best - they retain a certain stiffness that is essential for detail work. I also have some W&N series 7 brushes, which seem to be lasting much longer, being natural sable, though I find that they are a bit soft (ie bendy) for most of my needs. Horses for courses.Comment
Comment