Straight lines

[Guest]

In my state of Ohio liquor stores are considered essential,:smiling: therefore open for business. PaulE

Can be there in 35 hours if i only stop for gas and loo, am packing as i type, ready for this, in Nevada liquor stores are closed, can't even do curbside pickup, fortunatly most food stores have nice liquor departments and Costco doesn't have toilet paper but the booze is stacked to the ceiling , good to go, come to think of it i can't even buy paint to get started on my modeling resurrection debut, hobbys are closed

[Guest]

around .2mm (did I do that right? or 1/16 inch)

The definition of an inch is 25.4 mm exactly, which means that 1/16 inch is about 1.5 mm, so you either meant .2 cm or 2 mm

[Guest]

In my state of Ohio liquor stores are considered essential,:smiling:

“You can use it as hand sanitizer in emergencies! We can stay open, right?”

[Gern]

“You can use it as hand sanitizer in emergencies! We can stay open, right?” :smiling3:

I can't get the idea of a virus with a hangover out of my head - and that's all your fault Jakko!! :upside::upside:

[adt70hk]

If it's a narrow straight line - like the boot topping at a ship's waterline, then you can use decal trim film - this is a sheet of solid colour, that you can cut to any shape & apply like a standard decal - you can get it in most standard colours.................
Dave

Dave

Thanks for the tip on this interesting to know about and I can think of a number of uses for it.

All the best.

Andrew

[Dave Ward]

Andrew,
Hannants seem to have the best selection................................TRIM FILM
Dave

[Guest]

The definition of an inch is 25.4 mm exactly, which means that 1/16 inch is about 1.5 mm, so you either meant .2 cm or 2 mm :smiling3:

Ya, one of those

[Gern]

Paint the windows before glazing & mounting. PaulE

Sorry Paul. I didn't spot this when going through the replies.

The windows in question are already moulded into the buildings. I suppose I could cut them out and find suitable replacements, and if these were simple plastic buildings I would seriously consider that, but they're resin which is 4 - 5 mm thick. I fear removing them would be a huge task.

[Bugatti Fan]

Good art shops sell high quality designers brushes that have longer hairs than the norm that we see for model making.

Regarding masking tape....The Tamiya brand is good and aimed at model makers.
Another type of masking tape I came across is sold in Wilko's. It is named Washi Masking Tape and is red and much thinner than standard masking tape. Cuts into strips easily when placed onto glass as well.

[JR]

Chaps, It's not the various painting methods Dave needs help with, it's his "Shaky Hands." that are the problem!

Dave, forgetting masking for a minute. I'm wondering if the speed of application might have something to do with the shakes?

Members will have a good laugh I'm sure, but consider this truth. When concentrating on a precise bit of painting, i.e a straight line, the heart rate increases. If the painter messes about too much, the rate increase and the shakes can occur. Try this. get a pencil and paper and very,very slowly draw a straight line. Your hand will start to wobble. This is messing about! Now do the same exercise, but draw the line with some purpose. Straight as a dye!

Try the same deliberate quick action with your brush. your hand won't shake. It works with my painting, so might be worth a try

I get the shakes when Matron appears 570 !


Sorry Dave.
Can see your problem, painting windows is always a problem and that gap with the inset of the window into the opening is hard because of the angle. I struggle with depth of field, the longer you stare the worse it becomes. Think 570 has the answer. Always worth a try.

[boatman]

I get the shakes when Matron appears 570 !


Sorry Dave.
Can see your problem, painting windows is always a problem and that gap with the inset of the window into the opening is hard because of the angle. I struggle with depth of field, the longer you stare the worse it becomes. Think 570 has the answer. Always worth a try.

AN I got the point when matron appeard lol
sore butt chris lol

[Bugatti Fan]

Shaky hands. Artists use a small cloth bag filled with odd bits of rag and tied or stitched up at the edge to support their wrist on and keep their hand steady when working. Maybe this could be an idea to use when detail painting. Also photographic suppliers can supply small bean bags to support a camera in confined space when a tripod is out of the question that could be used for wrist support instead.

[Airborne01]

Have you tried lightly running a sharp pointed blade around the junction of frame and transparency?

[Guest]

When I started in the days of pencil & rubber within an architetcs office we had to render drawings. Colour all the brickwork conc etc all with watercolour. We and another probationer spent hours practising

First for any accurate work you need a first class brush. It has to have spring. Not the cheap floppy stuff.

Second wet the brush before use which keeps paint from the stock. You need the brush hairs free at the stock.
Regularly wash brush of drying paint & dry hairs before taking on board more paint.

Third paint only on the first third of the brush & not to much of it.

Fourth before putting paint to the object practice on a piece of paper.

Fifth. Painting. Palm firmly on the work top resting on the little finger. Brush resting on the middle finger, middle finger resting on the work top which is then used as the tramline to draw the brush along.

Sixth. Use the spring of the brush. Push the third of the brush with the paint firmly on the surface to be painted. The hairs of the brush firmly on the surface under tension so that the brush cannot have its own way. ie push the tip of the brush down to ensure it is bent under pressure. This is the reasoning for a good brush with spring.

Akward & small pieces use the chest as the work top.

Then using the middle finger firmly pull the brush towards you. Rest & take a new position to continue. Do not move the palm at all use the middle finger to work the brush.

If an item has to be held with the left hand ensure that it is also held so that it cannot move at all.

Even at 82 (learnt at 16 when I started work) I can still pull straight & equally curved lines with the above technique.

Laurie

[Gern]

Thanks for the replies on this reprisal of my original post. Lots of good advice but none of it is useful until I get my hands to stop shaking. Just to let you know how badly, do any of you remember my "Somewhere in Russia" dio:



That river is about 50mm wide and when I tried spreading out the filler I used for the water using a spatula, it was banging against both sides of the ravine. So my hand shakes up to about 30mm from side to side if you see what I mean. It's obviously not always that bad, but it gets worse the more I try to concentrate and the more delicate the work I'm trying to do. It's crazy but I can lift up a can of soup and put it in the cupboard when putting my shopping away without my hand shaking because I don't need to concentrate on holding it steady - but I can't carry a mug of tea the same size and weight without spilling it everywhere.

That's why I've not touched a model for 6 months or so and it's also why I'm REALLY hoping my visit to the neuro doc next month will provide some help.