Masking a Canopy removing a seam line

[Vaughan]

Hi all

Has anyone got some hints and tips on masking canopies. I'm using tamiya masking tape but I'm unsure of the best route to go. Do you stick the tape over the canopy pushing well down so that you can see the shape of the what would be the metal dividers and then cut with a model knife on either side and then peel away the window leaving the corresponding masked dividers. I've tried cutting the tape prior to attaching it to the canopy but it's literally impossible to get the exact shape. I've also tried cutting small strips and fixing them in situ but then it's difficult to get a straight edge at the end of the strip HELP!

Here's an image of my attempt at masking with strips

On another note I've got a 1/32 scale Bearcat by Trumpeter which I've yet to start building but have notice that the canopy has a seam line running down the length of it. How do i get rid of this seam. See attached image

Vaughan

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[Gern]

Here you go Vaughan:

Polishing Canopies

I know the bits and pieces he uses are American, but there are equivalents available in the UK. John will probably have them.

Gern

[Guest]

Hi Vaughan. I have tried a number of ways.

The best I have come up with is a bit laborious but it is the best I have found.

One problem I have come across is that the canopies are not well made so you start on a downer.

Obviously you are painting the metal seams. I attempt this in bits. For instance as many front to back seams to begin with. I use Tamiya tape the smallest width & tape both sides of the metal seam. I cut the tape down the centre if necessary. No need for cutting the outside edge so you have a straight line. I give three coats of acrylic then strip the tape & go on to the next group.

Using a finger nail I press down the edges of the tape to the plastic to try & stop paint creeping under the tape. Not always perfect.

For curved pieces I cut the tape with a sharp model knife to as close a shape as possible.

If the curve is on the outside of the canopy I paint by hand using a light/magnifier using a good brush with lots of spring in the hairs.

On the last one I scraped the seam area with a model knife to increase paint adhering to the plastic & which seemed to work better. Also better defines visually the area to be masked.

I have tried using thin quality sellotape as suggested by others. They spray the tape then cut into strips to the width of the metal seams & apply to the canopy. Tried this using enamel paint & the paint cracked so gave up.

One thing I am not happy, although I am improving, with any of the results so far. It is unfortunate as the canopy is the first thing you see.

Anybody any brighter ideas ?

Laurie

[Guest]

Take a look at these

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/tutorials/8694-please-help-novice-masking-painting-canopies.html

Masking Canopies

How to: masking canopies using Bare Metal Foil

[Guest]

The seam is, i assume a mould sean rather than a frame?

If so polishing pads are the way i would do this, nothing fancy or expensive needed, just one of those nail buffers from your local chemist, you shouldn't need the roughest side at all, just the other three in succession, the third giving you the clarity back and polishing the canopy for you.

I've that brasso works too but haven't tried it.

For masking canopies, (well for everything really but in this case it's relevant), I use standard automotive masking tape as it's tackier, lay a strip on a cutting mat and cut it into 2mm (ish) wide strips using a scalpel and straight edge, use lengths of this to work around the edge of the frames, it's thin enough to have the flexibility to work around a curve and the ends can be trimmed using a fresh sharp blade, then work your way into the middle, once the edges are done you can use wider pieces, burnish it down well, (no need to worry about lifting paint here), using a cottom bud or toothpick edge.

[stona]

For canopy masking you've got to use a new sharp knife. I use scalpel blades readily available at the shop. Make sure you burnish the tape down along the raised frames. I use a cocktail stick cut of at 45 degrees,a bit like a chisel. The wood won't scratch the clear part.

I always dip my canopies in Klear for a bit of protection,it gives a tough coating,it's a floor polish after all!

Some people seal the edges of the masking with a bit of Klear to prevent paint creeping underneath but I don't find this is necessary if you get the masking properly applied.

I've left this kind of masking on for weeks with no adverse effects.

To remove a seam is a labour of love. As m1ks said you need to buff and polish it out. I used to finish with a smoker's toothpaste called,I think,Euthymol,but I don't know if it's still available.

Cheers

Steve

[John]

A good one from Promodeller

[video=youtube;cosYd8q05eE]

[Vaughan]

Hi there Thanks for all you tips they're really helpful.

Cheers Vaughan