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Humbrol "matt" cote

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    #16
    Most important Dave is the first step to get a smooth top coat. Do that and you are half way there or even more. I wet and dry (on Vallejo Acrylic not a clue on enamel) on every coat. including if necessary a very fine gauge on the top coat.

    The slivering is where you have mountains and valleys in the paint surface. In the valleys the decal does not touch the bottom of the valley. Varnish helps to smooth this over but the success in percentage terms is the smoothness of the basic paint coat.

    I use water only. Gauge the result from this Wessex the decals on this are the most difficult I have come across. The decals were not good either. But it does take patience and persistence.

    Also add that there are very deep panel lines on the Wessex Revell, especially the numerals on the nose, and the decals have sunk right to the bottom of these. The black decal is one piece and meanders in every direction possible. The only bother I had were the roundels and I did, reluctantly, use a micro something and pin pricks. This I put down to a poor smooth surface as this should have been a doddle considering they are virtually flat on a pane less surface. I put this down to the painter and decorator who has been warned. The only sealing is one coat of Vallejo matt varnish. And the result is no silvering at all.

    Laurie

    [ATTACH]88459.IPB[/ATTACH]


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    • Ian M
      Administrator
      • Dec 2008
      • 18266
      • Ian
      • Falster, Denmark

      #17
      Humbrol matt coat really needs to be stired until your arms fall off. do that and its great. dont do that and its a good gloss coat!
      Group builds

      Bismarck

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      • BBdave
        • Aug 2014
        • 825

        #18
        Cheers guys the second coat was more matt and weathering has cured shiney bits

        Dave

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