Why so many........

[Ian M]

Sorry but I hate acrylics they are so soft you can't touch the model once painted or the paint comes off I will stick to my enamels I know it's old fashioned but there you are, to each his own.

Dare I ask if you are thinning them with water. It sounds like it. What you need to think about is that if you are using water, you are not thinning the paint but diluting it. The first couple of tries I had with Acrylic I "thinned" with water and found that the result was a weak powdery finish that as you say rubbed off. Bought a bottle of thinners and never looked back. Hard, smooth and tough.

I wont go technical on you, I will let our resident chemist, Stona do that. In short water dilutes the binders in the paint making it weak. Using a thinner you maintain the level of binders in the paint and it remains as tough as it was made to be.

Ian M

[Guest]

I also use Vallejo and would strongly recommend them.I have to say I find that that not only lay down well, they have a huge range of colours, are in 'spill proof' 17ml eye dropper bottles and once they are cured provide a very hard and resiliant finish.

Vallejo have a lot of information on their site with tutorials in armour painting with their paint that you might want to watch.

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/

Both Vallejo Model Colour (for brush painting) and Model Air (for the airbrush) are very easily available through John at SMS, the link at the top.

The one thing I will not use Vallejo for are metallics, the Mr Colour buffable metallics from Gunze are so much better. (also available from John)

As a range of paints I very much agree with Barry. I found when as a beginner that Vallejo is very straight forward. Very easy to use in both forms brush and airbrush.

An extensive range in paint varnish and a host of other forms and all compatible.

They are as Barry has said very resilient. But make sure the plastic has been wet and dried before applying one of about 10 primers each with basic colours.

Ensure at least 24 hours after priming before wet and drying. Best not to dry sand as it does not provide a smooth surface, The surface of the primer is then hard and most important really stuck to the plastic.

As Ian has mentioned. Vallejo thinners retains for paints and primers its original consistency and integrity. Water will dilute both those abilities.

Laurie

[colin m]

Whilst the Reichs Luftfahrt Ministerium would be useful for Luftwaffe colours, Paul is asking about building vehicles

If a specific plane calls for RLM (random #) blue, Model Master usually carries it. I believe the RLM stands for Royal Library Museum, You see, me being a plane person, that's the bit I saw !

[Guest]

I used vellejo air paint and spray through my ab thinned with Vallejo thinners and cleaned my brush out with Vallejo ab cleaner. I guess I just don't get on with acrylics although I have found they are ok for detailing where the model is not going to be handled much anyway. Generally I can handle any model I have sprayed or brushed with enamels the next day. I hear people saying acrylics need 48hours to cure, I don't want to be waiting 2 days everytime I paint some part before I can eagerly glue it together or paint some other bit of it. If it does take 48 hours for acrylics to cure and you have a complex part that needs 4 colours say it would take over a week to paint that one part.

[Guest]

The thing about Vallejo is that you effectively need to buy 2 lots of each colour - one for brush painting & one for airbrushing. Not ideal if you're on a budget!

And please please can I see pictures of how to wet & dry sand a 1/72 Opel Blitz & PAK 40! :P

[Peej]

Calm down Patrick, not started it yet. Got to finish the 2 aircraft I'm working on first.

[Guest]

That is not my experience Ken with Vallejo.

Model Air 24 hours for reasonable curing. But I can mist coat and then second coat with airbrushing within two hours. Final coat next day including carefully wet and drying.

Hand brush with Model say a 1/48 pilot basic main colours 24 maximum finished.

Not had to wait 48 hours which I agree is not acceptable. Something is wrong to have to wait that time. After two hours Vallejo is touch dry.

Laurie

[Guest]

Calm down Patrick, not started it yet. Got to finish the 2 aircraft I'm working on first.

Ha-ha I'm impatient Paul!

[Guest]

I just think I don't get on with acrylics maybe I amdoing something fundamentally wrong but I've used enamels allmy life with no probs so recon I will just stick with them.

[Peej]

I'm using acrylics cos they come with the kits I have bought. I'm happy with how things are turning out but I might try enamels in future.

[Guest]

Don't get me wrong I'm not trashing acrylics they work for lots of people just not for me, if you're happy with them great we use all sorts of paint for all sorts of effects water colours, oils, enamels, cellulose, even as has been pointed out to me felt tip pens pastels (which since then I have used a lot) you just have to use what works for you.

[Guest]

The thing about Vallejo is that you effectively need to buy 2 lots of each colour - one for brush painting & one for airbrushing. Not ideal if you're on a budget! And please please can I see pictures of how to wet & dry sand a 1/72 Opel Blitz & PAK 40! :P

Not so Patrick for me, although I have a selection of Model, I use Model Air for both air and hand.

I do think that the best thing for any body deciding on the way to go is to try enamel and acrylics. As both are used by very experienced model makers it is obvious that all have a place and a favourite. Rather silly in this respect to down a type. Better for those who use one or the other to give their personal opinions. Each knows their favourite paint better obviously than the one they do not use.

Laurie

[Guest]

Then I'm confused Laurie as I understood Model Air to be

' airbrush ready '? I know I couldn't brush paint with anything thin enough for putting through an AB.

And I'm no more putting down a type than you are (as ever), extolling the virtues of Vallejo paint! I use Vallejo because I have some, but I'd not buy anymore - just my personal choice.

[Richi72]

The thing about Vallejo is that you effectively need to buy 2 lots of each colour - one for brush painting & one for airbrushing. Not ideal if you're on a budget!

Hi Patrick, as Laurie just said, that is not really correct, in the early years of Vallejo, there were no Airbrush series and no panzer aces and those other series they have.

When you thinned the normal Vallejos as follows ''1 drop paint and 1 drop thinner'' you got the consistency of a fat milk that you can spray with the airbrush with the same result as there airbrush range. Difference in there Airbrush range is they are already thinned for you and that's all. And you are right with the ''ready to spray from the bottle'', but I personally like to give it a drop of thinner more so it will flow better.

Important is that you use thinner and no water.

But as I stated before, everyone should find their own holy grail of paint and be confident with it.

Cheers Richi

[Guest]

Then I'm confused Laurie as I understood Model Air to be' airbrush ready '? I know I couldn't brush paint with anything thin enough for putting through an AB.

And I'm no more putting down a type than you are (as ever), extolling the virtues of Vallejo paint! I use Vallejo because I have some, but I'd not buy anymore - just my personal choice.

That is fine Patrick no need to be confused. Just do not use Model Air for hand painting it is a free choice. I do as it suits me.

Just to confirm I am not putting down any type. I like Vallejo. Enamels did not suit me. That is no putting down enamels.

Every man to his own. As I have stated try both. Do you not agree Patrick ?

Laurie