HUMBROL,a Clear waning.

[Guest]

The problem is mixing paints varnish etc with different type thiiner dryer bases.


Use Humbrol (including Clear) Vallejo Lifecolor and Mig Acrylic together they are all water based. Humbrol and Vallejo do all the decal fixing things all water based.


Also if you use IPA make sure it is dry in all the little crevices as it will effect water based products. IPA is a great water based acrylic paint remover.


If you mix the water based ones with the lacquer cellulose and what ever else there is there is the potential for disaster. Not worth it after all the hard work of putting together a model. Rather like mixing oil and milk neither like the experience.


The old advice mix it up and you will get mixed up.


Laurie

[Guest]

Sorry Laurie, but I can't agree! There should be no problem applying a product like Humbrol Clear over oil-based paints as long as the paint is fully cured.


I think the problem lies more in the manufacturing than in anything else. Since Hornby / Humbrol / Airfix moved much of their production to China, the quality has become less dependable.


Many people on various forums are talking about differences between new pots of paint & ones they've had on the shelf for years - and the new stuff is invariably the one at fault!


It's so disappointing when something doesn't work as hoped, but that will be an experience we all go through.

[BarryW]

David - it should not be a problem just spray it with a thin coat of Clear and the fogging will disappear. It is best to do that anyway to seal in the decals before weathering washes before a matt coat.

[Guest]

Sorry Laurie, but I can't agree!

That is OK Partick.


Final answer. But I do not have any problems the way I have describe it above. Most of the comments above have. I am using the same product. For me QED.


Laurie

[Ian M]

When Tamiya say themselves that Base and clear have different curing times, Both their own product, must prove that there is a loop hole in your theory Laurie. I will agree though that sticking to one system is (normally) error free.


Ian M

[Guest]

Ian M

When Tamiya say themselves that Base and clear have different curing times, Both their own product, must prove that there is a loop hole in your theory Laurie. I will agree though that sticking to one system is (normally) error free. Ian M

Sorry Ian my mind is not following your logic. I am talking of differing products. Presumably Tamiya products will not interact with each other in a detrimental way. Providing of course that you follow their recommended techniques.


All that I am saying is. I have not had any problems with the products by staying water based. I am not saying that you cannot mix and match.


But if you do mix and match you are skiing off piste and risk all the problems pitfalls and slippery slope over the cliff edge or the exhilaration of the perfection of a clear run. You decide on the risks. Most do not go off piste unless they have years of experience and as we know that is not a given in terms of safety.


And so you take your pick.


Laurie

[Guest]

Ian M

But if you do mix and match you are skiing off piste and risk all the problems pitfalls and slippery slope over the cliff edge or the exhilaration of the perfection of a clear run. Yoe on the risks. Most do not go off piste unless they have years of experience and as we know that is not a given in terms of safety.


And so you take your pick.


Laurie


Oh Laurie, you do make me chuckle! I've got tears in my eyes from reading that!


But I must ask, why would a water soluble product interact in any way with a coat of fully-cured enamel paint? Oil-based paints are chemically "hotter" than acrylics, so there's far more chance of an unwanted reaction going the other way.

[Guest]

But I must ask, why would a water soluble product interact in any way with a coat of fully-cured enamel paint? Oil-based paints are chemically "hotter" than acrylics, so there's far more chance of an unwanted reaction going the other way.

Patrick as stated I only ski on piste. I leave it to the more courageous to ski off piste.


Laurie

[Guest]

All this skiing Talk made me go to lhs and buy alclad gloss for my Subaru. I will use the humbrol clear before decals but for the clear coat to be polished the alclad comes recommended. The clear also looks good for canopy dipping. I will still try the clear on a small sample piece with Paint and do some alclad for a comparison and try polishing and sanding both. I may even try doing the clears while the paint is wet as Tamiya recommend just to see... Can't hurt to experiment, it Works with the wife haha

[Guest]

Patrick as stated I only ski on piste. I leave it to the more courageous to ski off piste.
Laurie

Just wanted to confirm that it is "piste" not "pissed". Very deep thinks or perhaps ---- is it both.


Perhaps I was pisted at the time.


Laurie

[rickoshea52]

I've used Humbrol Clear over enamel paints and have had problems with fogging. On my Nimrod I brush painted it on and had fogging but when I sprayed a coat of Clear on the fogging disappeared, but I also brought the model into the house from a cold garage to dry.


The same problems have beset my daughter's Me 109 using brushed on Clear. I sprayed a coat on last night and still have fogging after leaving it in the garage to dry.


Is it a temperature thing? Either way I won't be using Clear for anything except varnishing cockpits for decals - thanks all its good for as far as I'm concerned.

[Guest]

David - it should not be a problem just spray it with a thin coat of Clear and the fogging will disappear. It is best to do that anyway to seal in the decals before weathering washes before a matt coat.

Hi Barry,


I'm not 100% sure but I think I did the gloss coat, then the decal, where I noticed the fogging. I then sealed it with another gloss coat then the Vallejo Matt.


D.

[Guest]

have primed and sprayed some test pieces. Have purposely primed and rapid dried in the dehydrator then heavy coated Tamiya straight away, left it 20 mins ish and heavy coated again. Put them in the dehydrator for 15 to make them almost touch dry. Early night tonight and switched the dehydrator off the now. Back on for a few hours tomorrow and will decide if ready for clear coating.


I'm purposely trying to see what I can get away with hence doing it all quick. If it goes wrong I'll try again with a lot more drying time between Coats. Not a very good way to do the experiment granted but hey ho. The primer may still be gassing of under the Tamiya the now so will see how that works out before the clear goes on.