Marbling and streaking could be your to close to it and not using a fluid motion when you spray, try moving a little bit further away and doing a slow continuous line over the area you want to spray
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Cheers, I shall try again with no thinners. If it doesn't spray will apply small amounts until I get a result and see what happens.
Cheers (yet again!) allComment
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OK, well that didn't work either, given up on the Humbrol airbrush with their Acrylics.
Not given up on Acrylics though, managed to salvage the plane, even with the shocking state of paint. Loving that my back door is not open, there's no ventilation and I don't have a headache. I am converted - I'm Acrylics from now on!
Not perfect but this is model 3 I've built...!
Think I'll follow Alan 45's example and use a hairy brush for a few models, most of the imperfections were as a result of trying to recover the job of the airbrush! More practice needed methinks.
Next up - Red Arrows (also an Airfix Starter Kit!)Comment
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There are several factors to get right (for me at any rate) when airbrushing acrylics (similar for enamels but no doubt different here and there):Originally posted by \
Air pressure. With a compressor many people use 20 PSI.
Thinning. With Vallejo Model Air (specially made for airbrushing), they advise that no thinning is necessary. Some people do add about 10%. I don't thin it. You were, I'm sure, thinning your Humbrol acrylic far too much.
Distance from the part. I use about 6 inches.
Flow rate. At 20 psi I seldom pull the trigger more than about half way. (My needle size is 0.4 mm).
Flow rate and movement. Keep the flow rate constant and move the airbrush smoothly. Start off the part and end off the part. Except for gloss varnish and gloss colours, don't go past the point when the paint starts to look wet. If necessary for evenness, apply another coat.
Primer. Some people don't use a primer. I always do. I think it helps the paint to go on evenly.
It takes practice but I got there in the end.Comment
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