Johnsons Klear

[stona]

They could even scent it to match the smell of a vintage aircraft engine, modelling glue or even turpentine substitute.

Laurie

Now that I would pay extra for!

There was another thread on another forum (probably Britmodeller) a couple of years ago when Johnsons first announced that they would be discontinuing the "old style" Klear in which a member had been in touch with the company and reproduced an exchange of emails. Johnsons were made aware of our alternative use of their product.

The problem is that I've had one bottle of Klear on the go for at least three or four years and there is still a fair bit left. In that time I've made many models,mostly in 1/32. If I was using the stuff as a floor polish (heresy I say) I would have got through several bottles. Although,as modellers,we think we use a lot of the stuff infact our consumption is negligible.

I laid in a stash of four bottles of the old stuff which will keep me going for the forseeable future and then some. I have a friend of a similar age to me who has a stash of sixteen bottles! Hopefully he'll live to be two hundred years old and use it all up.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Hi all,

would like to try the above but do brush or airbrush and does this replace varnish.

Regards

Tony

[Guest]

Hi Tony.

Just finished my first airbrushing with Klear. Also up until used a paint brush. Air brushed as the model, a Lancaster, is large & would have been, for me, difficult to hand paint with Klear.

On the airbrush make sure you do not go full blast. Klear is thin & you will get dribbles running all over the place. If you have a method of restricting the needle movement turn it right down & practice as I did on a plastic bottle. Used a .4 needle nozzle. Found not to go over the same patch. If it looks wet I found I had overdone it (on my practice bottle).

With a paint brush I use a 12mm wide flat brush & only "just" dip in the very end into the Klear. Found that this will more than cover a 1/72 spitfire wing for instance. Careful around bits which protrude as otherwise you will puddle it.

Use a B & Q decorators wipe if I have overdone it. Carefully wipe away any excess while wet does the trick without any blemishes.

I have found airbrushing or painting that 3 coats is about right. Airbrushing I recoated after an hour. Probable you can cut this down as it dries so quickly.

Found it best to use a mask as found it does float in the air & gets up the nose.

Also make sure your airbrush is really cleaned well as the stuff goes off so quickly.

Nearly forgot when I have completed & finished the model I airbrush the lot with Vallejo Satin Varnish.

Laurie

[Guest]

Just thought Tony. What are you using Klear for ?

Is it as a final finish? Protecting the model while using masking tape or to get shot of the shine on the edge of the decals & make a good surface to apply the decals too.

Laurie

[mossiepilot]

Hi, just restarted modeling again and got some of the new 'Klear'. I'm brushing it on at the moment as my birthday (and airbrush) hasn't arrived yet. I'm finishing a 1:72 A6M2 Zero and when I checked it I found that the area round the tail wheel was yellowed. Did I put it on too thick?

Any help please

Tony

[Vaughan]

Hi Tony Yes you have to be careful that you don't let it pool when applying by brush as it will have a yellow tinge.

Vaughan

[Gern]

Tony, there are a couple of ways you could fix the problem. As Klear dissolves in itself, you could add a little more to the area (sounds daft I know!) and clean off the excess with a cloth or clean brush. Failing that, an ammonia based cleaner will remove it for you.

Gern

[Guest]

Nigel,

Asda definitely sell it, I bought a bottle at the weekend.

Gaz.