Is it just me...

[Guest]

I have had white spots too, despite very vigorous shaking. Such shaking should have dispersed the white matting agent. The fact that white spots remain (and in my case they were much bigger than I would expect the matting agent particles to be) I guess that the particles clumped together sufficiently strongly to resist shaking. In that case more than shaking is needed but I can't think what. Perhaps a steel ball (John sells them) in the bottle might help to break them up.

Have you unscrewed the lid and had a look inside the lid ?

Best to email Vallejo Steve. See what they have to say. Give them the batch number.

Laurie

[Guest]

Have you unscrewed the lid and had a look inside the lid ?Best to email Vallejo Steve. See what they have to say. Give them the batch number.

Laurie

No, I didn't unscrew the lid. Will do next time. Perhaps filtering the matt varnish through fine stockings or tights (I have sought advice on that) before each use might help but what a fuss! Incidentally, when taking the top off a Vallejo Air bottle I always wipe the spout before replacing to minimise the risk of some paint drying and causing a block.

I contacted Vallejo and gave the batch number but they said that batch was OK. I have come to the opinion that if a commercial company (including good ones like Vallejo) has a product with a small fault which can't be cured without unacceptable expense, they accept it within their company and are as friendly and helpful to customers as they can but without admitting the fault, and soldiering on. I think the white spots problem is in that category. As are any infernal product that has a microprocessor like TVs and recorders. Even my shower crashed, and my hospital bed crashed (the feature that allows the surface to move in three sections). Tech help had to be called and he took 10 minutes!

[Guest]

think the white spots problem is in that category. As are any infernal product that has a microprocessor like TVs and recorders. Even my shower crashed, and my hospital bed crashed (the feature that allows the surface to move in three sections)

Ouch Steve. Think I will stay well away from Shropshire

Actually Steve it is not the top of the spout it is in side the spout ie in the paint area itself. On the big bottles the top unscrews and the same applies. If you are having to filter then there is some thing drasticly wrong with the varnish and not worth the trouble.

Laurie

[Guest]

I have just done some airbrushing for the first time since about last September—Vallejo Model Air Grey Primer. I opened the flap and unscrewed the top and using a stiff brush cleaned all the stuck primer. I was surprised at how difficult it it was to remove all of it (which is good for modelling). Having thoroughly shaken the bottle before, I shook it a second time. (It has a rattle object in it—an M4 nut). On shooting AB cleaner through my brush (a Harder and Steenbeck CR Plus, 0.4 mm) the flow fell to half during spraying. On cleaning it, I pushed as usual an interdental brush wet with cleaner into the nozzle and a worm of quite stiff primer came out. The AB had been thoroughly cleaned last time—cup cleaned, body brushed inside with cleaner (the tiny bottle brush being inspected in a bright light against a dark background and under a magnifying lens to detect hairs before every use of it), nozzle cleaned and inspected under a magnifying lens against a bright light, put into an ultrasonic cleaner, re-assembled in clean conditions.


Despite this rigorous cleaning every time, I get blockages quite often (say every 5th session), many showing evidence that thick paint was the culprit. Any paint that had hardened blow the neck of the bottle (which perhaps I did not detect) would probably have formed a flake (like I found on the cap when cleaning) rather than produced a worm which is what I found.


How often to you others get blockages? What causes them? Are they something that we must accept?

[john i am]

I have just done some airbrushing for the first time since about last September—Vallejo Model Air Grey Primer. I opened the flap and unscrewed the top and using a stiff brush cleaned all the stuck primer. I was surprised at how difficult it it was to remove all of it (which is good for modelling). Having thoroughly shaken the bottle before, I shook it a second time. (It has a rattle object in it—an M4 nut). On shooting AB cleaner through my brush (a Harder and Steenbeck CR Plus, 0.4 mm) the flow fell to half during spraying. On cleaning it, I pushed as usual an interdental brush wet with cleaner into the nozzle and a worm of quite stiff primer came out. The AB had been thoroughly cleaned last time—cup cleaned, body brushed inside with cleaner (the tiny bottle brush being inspected in a bright light against a dark background and under a magnifying lens to detect hairs before every use of it), nozzle cleaned and inspected under a magnifying lens against a bright light, put into an ultrasonic cleaner, re-assembled in clean conditions.
Despite this rigorous cleaning every time, I get blockages quite often (say every 5th session), many showing evidence that thick paint was the culprit. Any paint that had hardened blow the neck of the bottle (which perhaps I did not detect) would probably have formed a flake (like I found on the cap when cleaning) rather than produced a worm which is what I found.


How often to you others get blockages? What causes them? Are they something that we must accept?

I use Iwata tr2 and tr0 airbrushes I've never had a blockage as described by yourself .My normal practice is rinse paint cup after use wipe with kitchen towel.About 6 drops of Vallejo airbrush cleaner blow backwards and then spray reminder of cleaner through airbrush.next about 10 drops of h20 sprayed though airbrush.On next use I put about 5 drops of airbrush thinner into the cup blow back and spray reminder of thinner through airbrush.Using this method seems to keep my airbrush in good working order with no issues or problems whatsoever it's the perfect cleaning method or I'm just lucky I'm not sure which one but for now I'm a very happy airbrusher

[Guest]

I have just done some airbrushing for the first time since about last September—Vallejo Model Air Grey Primer. I opened the flap and unscrewed the top and using a stiff brush cleaned all the stuck primer. I was surprised at how difficult it it was to remove all of it (which is good for modelling). Having thoroughly shaken the bottle before, I shook it a second time. (It has a rattle object in it—an M4 nut). On shooting AB cleaner through my brush (a Harder and Steenbeck CR Plus, 0.4 mm) the flow fell to half during spraying. On cleaning it, I pushed as usual an interdental brush wet with cleaner into the nozzle and a worm of quite stiff primer came out. The AB had been thoroughly cleaned last time—cup cleaned, body brushed inside with cleaner (the tiny bottle brush being inspected in a bright light against a dark background and under a magnifying lens to detect hairs before every use of it), nozzle cleaned and inspected under a magnifying lens against a bright light, put into an ultrasonic cleaner, re-assembled in clean conditions.
Despite this rigorous cleaning every time, I get blockages quite often (say every 5th session), many showing evidence that thick paint was the culprit. Any paint that had hardened blow the neck of the bottle (which perhaps I did not detect) would probably have formed a flake (like I found on the cap when cleaning) rather than produced a worm which is what I found.


How often to you others get blockages? What causes them? Are they something that we must accept?

Blockages well not at all unless I have been careless with cleaning the airbrush or I am weathering at low pressure.


Sounds to me Steve as if the paint has not been agitated enough. If you are getting a worm the paint has not been mixed well enough. I have 5 different colours of primer and just checked and they are all free of pint around the lid. Just wondered if in not stirring well the thinners and dryers have been used out of proportion to the remainder of the paint leaving the unused paint thickish.


Laurie

[Guest]

Sounds to me Steve as if the paint has not been agitated enough. If you are getting a worm the paint has not been mixed well enough.

I think that is the basic problem.

Just wondered if in not stirring well the thinners and dryers have been used out of proportion to the remainder of the paint leaving the unused paint thickish.

Yes, I can see that. It assumes that the thinners and dryers sit on top of the rest of the paint in the bottle. But I do shake really hard, and the nut in the bottle should surely mix things up. I will have to shake even harder in future. (Total shoulder replacements are increasingly successful these days!)

[Guest]

I think that is the basic problem.
Yes, I can see that. It assumes that the thinners and dryers sit on top of the rest of the paint in the bottle. But I do shake really hard, and the nut in the bottle should surely mix things up. I will have to shake even harder in future. (Total shoulder replacements are increasingly successful these days!)

Steve I hold the bottle up to the light inverted. You can then see if there are dregs in the bottom. If there are I flip the top off and stir the bottom.


Laurie

[Guest]

Steve I hold the bottle up to the light inverted. You can then see if there are dregs in the bottom. If there are I flip the top off and stir the bottom.
Laurie

Yes, I do that but it works for me only for varnish. For others I can never see clear dregs. I think I will have to stir every bottle with a rod for a while and see if that makes a difference.

[Guest]

More very frustrating woes. I had another go this afternoon. Vallejo Model Air Grey Primer was sprayed successfully this time although yesterday the spray fell to about half its usual flow after a few seconds and there was a worm of stiff paint that came out of the nozzle. It seemed to have the usual thickness when poured. AB flushed out thoroughly with Vallejo AB Cleaner. After very vigorous shaking and having cleaned the spout, when pouring Vallejo Model Air "Dark Sea Grey" into the cup I noticed (too late!) that it was unusually thick. Sure enough, it blocked immediately. I cleaned the AB. (When I say "cleaned" I mean Spring Clean. Every time: remove needle, nozzle cap, needle and cup; use an interdental brush on the nozzle; pointed cotton bud on the cap; soak both in Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner; use one of those little bottle brushes soaked in cleaner up the passage from the end to the middle of the AB, several times; clean the cup; use the interdental brush again on the nozzle and check through a mag. glass while rotating it to check for anything there. What more can I do?


I then thinned the Dark Sea Grey with Vallejo Thinner to about its normal consistency as when bought fresh. Sprayed again. Almost immediate blockage. Worm again.


Shot through some "Muc-Off", "Fast Action Bike Cleaner" which I once read was good. Cleaned the AB thoroughly again, thinned some more (to a very liquid consistency), another blockage but no worm.


AB cleaner goes through the AB perfectly after cleaning.


The last time I used the AB for Acrylic was last June. It was cleaned as above with the addition of a session in the Ultrasound cleaner.


The Primer and the Dark Sea Grey were bought in March 2013 and were much used from then until Last June—15 months.


Using logic, could it be that Vallejo Acrylic Paint goes off in the bottle after a time and has to be thrown away? Does anyone else have to do that?





If not, what is going on please?

[Guest]

could it be that Vallejo Acrylic Paint goes off in the bottle after a time and has to be thrown away? Does anyone else have to do that?

Vallejo say some is 10 years old and still going. From memory they say at least five years. Where do you store your paint Steve. Just not had any problems like you have.


It could be, speculating, that the nozzle was not clean or half clogged. What happens if the thinners can go thro with some paint but then the paint clogs up and courses the worm ie slightly clogges nozzle and a .35 nozzle becomes a .18.


A nother is a stray piece dryed paint, only needs a minute piece, of paint from the cup when cleaning lodges near the nozzle and then is puched into the nozzle when you load the paint.


If the cap has not been tightened up then the thinners/dryers will evaporate.


Have you tried squirting a bit of paint into a saucer and see if it looks normal.


Laurie

[Guest]

To try and defeat the Carpet Monster when handling small parts, and especially when peering through a recently cleaned airbrush nozzle (costs money to replace), I sit up very close to the edge of the work table and lean forward. Sometimes a small part, when held by tweezers which looses its grip, will jump like a cricket and land far away and be lost. Also, this can happen when cutting small parts off the sprue. The snapping shut of the cutter's blades can give it the propulsion of a Saturn rocket, so keep hold of it. I visited the Jewellery museum in Birmingham. To save bits of gold the workers had a big leather pouch fixed to the front edge of the bench and in some way kept close to their stomachs like part of an apron. We don't need to go that far! Also, when detaching several small parts from the sprue, put them in a closed container until used, not strewn on the table. And if small parts on a sprue seem loose, stick them with sellotape or something or they will loosen and disappear. Once a part has been removed from the sprue it will loose its part number which can cause difficulties if there are two or more similar parts (left and right handed for example).


It's a wonder any of us make it to the end!

[Guest]

when detaching several small parts from the sprue

On small parts on the sprue before cutting I put a piece of tape across. Also for working on small pieces which may disappear into the ether I put a sticky stick on an end before holding with tweezers.


For left right handed bits I have a collection of small plastic boxes. Bit of tape on top left hand box right hand box. For pieces which have disappeared 3 pieces of wide tape sticky up across the backs of the hand is very successful. Failing that. muslin on the end of the vacuum cleaner brush is a winner.


Laurie

[Guest]

To try and defeat the Carpet Monster when....

I think I posted this in the wrong thread. I aimed at a newcomer somewhere else, just starting modelling.

[Guest]

I've ground to a halt. I simply cannot go for more than a few seconds before it blocks. I suspected the paint (Laurie: I always screw the top on hard). Perhaps lumps, so (as Laurie suggested), I took a Vallejo Model Air paint bottle (not one mentioned earlier) and poured the contents slowly into a small glass jar, watching the stream as it went in for any lumps. None. It looked at normal consistency: no thicker than normal. I cleaned the Vallejo bottle, its spout and cap incredibly well, almost surgically clean, with a brush and washing up liquid. Not an atom of flecked paint remained. Poured the paint back again looking for lumps. None. Repeated exactly for another bottle. (It also was at normal thickness). Same result (although while washing its bottle before returning its paint I noticed a small patch of paint still adhering to the inside. Not a flake, just some paint very slightly stiffer, which unlike the rest (now washed away) allowed it to remain on the bottle wall (until I brushed it away).


Airbrushed one of the paints at 20 PSI. Blockage in 2 seconds. Cleaned the AB again as thoroughly as described in my earlier post, this time also in an Ultra-sonic cleaner. The other paint in. Blockage in 2 seconds. Cleaned the AB again, also ultrasonically...


As the paint was now free of suspicion I had a minute inspection of the AB. Needle not bent. Nozzle not dented. But I noticed a small amount of crud adhering strongly to the outside of the nozzle, the main cylindrical part, not the conical nozzle part itself. Removed completely. This is where the air, not paint, flows, outside the nozzle, (I think, as the paint goes through the inside), but crud is crud and must be removed.


Sprayed one of the paints poured as above. Blocked in seconds. (I noticed a worm, a very soft worm, came out of the nozzle when I pushed the needle into it. I can't imagine where it came from. I would expect that normally all the paint would remain liquid.) Cleaned the AB, also ultrasonically. Tried the other bottle, having thinned it with Vallejo thinner, about 15%. Blocked in about 6 seconds.


At all times, Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner sprays perfectly and for a long time. Harder & Steenbeck Cr2 Plus, 0.4 mm needle. I have been able to spray Vallejo for 18 months or more very successfully. It seems that not using it for 5 months affected it.


So, unless anyone on this forum has any more suggestions (and many thanks for the help so far), and if I haven't died of exhaustion, I will send it to Everything Airbrush where I bought it 22 months ago (they have been helpful in the past). @&^$£*+;~~±|