AK real colour and varnish

[John]

I’ve never use Real colour paints so I thought I would give them a try, I thinned 50/50 with Mr Color thinner, they sprayed really well and I got a nice finish, I’m a bit confused what is the best varnish to use, they are advertised as an acrylic lacquer which I a bit confusing, I have a rattle can of Humbrol acrylic varnish, I sprayed it on and it’s reacted with it, it’s got very light bubbles and gone transparent in places, the paints dry, it’s been left about 3 weeks, any ideas what would be a better varnish to use?

[JR]

Think Andy would be the best to answer this.

[Andy T]

Hi John, I can't think of a good reason for that happening.

The real colors are what would be classed as a lacquer, so once fully dry (as yours was) they are pretty bomb proof and it shouldn't react with a varnish, unless you really hosed it on from the can. In that case the strong solvents in the rattle can could have reactivated the real color underneath. A few lighter coats to build up the thickness would help if that was the problem.

All I can suggest is trying a test panel on some scrap card using the same kind of paint and varnish. I've never used the humbrol one but I haven't had any issues with various rattle cans over lacquer paint.

I like the Mr Color super clear cans, although I'm now using automotive ones from ProXL, which come in gloss, satin & matt.

[Scratchbuilder]

Humbrol varnish has become the death knell of models.
Have a look on YT at The Inner Nerd, he has just put together a tutorial on spraying which might help you as he does deal with varnishing.

[John]

Thanks Andy, I will don’t think I went too heavy but it’s sometimes hard to tell with a can, I might try using some in my airbrush

[Jim R]

With the very wet weather recently resulting in high humidity could that be the problem rather than incompatible paints. I have heard that varnish can go milky when used in high humidity situations.
Just a thought as I've no experience of AK Real Colour or Humbrol varnish.

[John]

I've got a couple of bottles of RC varnish, that should work fine, I will spray it on

[John]

I used the RC varnish, when I looked it this morning it looked like someone had sprinkled candy floss on it

[Flip]

Andy T said "The real colors are what would be classed as a lacquer"

I have no direct experience of the RC Colors but I do use lacquers all the time (Tamiya LP and MRP).
My go-to varnish is Tamiya (LP9, LP23 & LP24), diluted with retarder-type thinners, right up to the top of the bottle.
Works like a dream.

Jim R said "varnish can go milky when used in high humidity situations". Very true. I've had that happen and you will know if that's happened as the parts will go white. A quick re-coat of varnish will cure that. I tend to immediately put parts onto the mantelpiece after that to keep them as warm as possible until the varnish has cured (yes, I do get SWMBO's permission ?)

The fact that it looks like 'candy floss' is pointing more to an issue with the RC paint. I presume you mean some form of mottled appearance. Is is sand-able to take it back a bit to re-coat?

Personally, I would use the AB to get a quick coat of one of the Tamiya LPs above on it, if it can be sanded back.

[John]

I’ve got some cans of Vallejo varnish, I sprayed that on after cleaning the candy floss off and it’s much better, I prefer to use rattle cans for varnish, I can never tell if my ab is completely clean after using them, unlike paint