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  • Guest

    #16
    Originally posted by \
    You've already seen it, least I hope you have as you commented on it http://www.scale-models.co.uk/thread...d.28059/page-2

    Adrian
    Ah yes, I remember now, a truely remarkable achievement, I just love it. Astronomy and space flight have fascinated me all my life, I'm 69, so that's a long time. That's why I chose this Apollo Saturn V for my first build. One day, when I am a lot more experienced, I will have a go at the 1:72. Something to aim towards.

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    • Guest

      #17
      Originally posted by \
      Ever thought of just using a gloss varnish?
      Do you mean using it as a primer? Think my glass needs a refill, brain overheating, all three remaining brain cells firing simultaneously.

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      • Guest

        #18
        Don't forget one of the main purposes of a primer is to provide a key for the top coat to adhere to properly. If the top coat is white the primer may as well be white to A) Give the best colour cover and B) Provide the key for the gloss final coat. Using a white primer on a white plastic is fine and makes perfect sense.

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        • Guest

          #19
          Thanks Richard, it makes more sense now.

          I've had a little night time tipple and that always provides solutions to even the most challenging and vexing questions that harmless inert objects assault us with.

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          • Guest

            #20
            I don't like using a primer that is very close in colour to the plastic because it is difficult to gauge how the primer is going on (thickness etc.). I sometimes add a little coloured primer. For the same reason I avoid a primer with the same colour as the next coat.

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            • Gern
              SMF Supporters
              • May 2009
              • 9226

              #21
              Originally posted by \
              I used Halfords white primer when building my Dragon 1:72 Apollo 11, the top coat was Appliance white from Halfords, no issues at all in coverage.Adrian
              I've used these as well and they give a nice, clean finish. Not necessarily so good for smaller kits as you have very little control with these big rattle cans. You don't get a high gloss, but would the Apollo have a high gloss finish?

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              • Guest

                #22
                i have just got an acrylic white primer for my model ship kits 400ml for £4 wasn't bad off ebay not halfords though the idea is to make the camouflage or dazzle as its known a brighter look to it

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                • Guest

                  #23
                  If you want contrast because you have sanded or done work on the plastic just stand back and very lightly mist a grey or black from a distance after the white primer is down. You're actually not trying to change the color you're just looking for a very light splatter effect; its what they do on real cars. A light sand will show you any imperfections and then you can spray another light coat of white primer on after you have cleaned up any bad spots.

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                  • Guest

                    #24
                    Originally posted by \
                    I don't like using a primer that is very close in colour to the plastic because it is difficult to gauge how the primer is going on (thickness etc.). I sometimes add a little coloured primer. For the same reason I avoid a primer with the same colour as the next coat.
                    Yes, that was my concern Steve. Good idea to give it a slight tint, why didn't I think of that?

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                    • Guest

                      #25
                      Originally posted by \
                      Yes, that was my concern Steve. Good idea to give it a slight tint, why didn't I think of that?
                      That was the practice until recently by good house painter and decorators. A little pink in the undercoat to show that it has covered the primer. In those days two undercoats were used and the same ritual applied.

                      Laurie

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                      • Guest

                        #26
                        Originally posted by \
                        I don't like using a primer that is very close in colour to the plastic because it is difficult to gauge how the primer is going on (thickness etc.). I sometimes add a little coloured primer. For the same reason I avoid a primer with the same colour as the next coat.
                        Good point Steve, particularly when you need to rub down between coats and you need to gauge where work needs to be done. This is particularly useful when shaping something like a scratch built boat hull when you might deliberately give it a very light dusting of black before rubbing it down to identify the areas that might need a bit of building up.

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                        • spanner570
                          SMF Supporters
                          • May 2009
                          • 15438

                          #27
                          Originally posted by \
                          Astronomy and space flight have fascinated me all my life
                          Keith, just off on a slight tangent which might be of some interest to you, as a spotty teenage youth, I had the pleasure of shaking Uri Gagarin's hand when he visited the U.K. after his historic space flight......I have a huge commemorative medal which he gave my father for being "The only true worker amongst all these dignitaries here tonight." At the time my dad was a big wheel in the local unions, and managed to blag a ticket to the 'do' where Gagarin was Guest of Honour.

                          Please excuse the minor high-jack..

                          Ron

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                          • Guest

                            #28
                            Originally posted by \
                            That was the practice until recently by good house painter and decorators. A little pink in the undercoat to show that it has covered the primer. In those days two undercoats were used and the same ritual applied.Laurie
                            The same principle was used (and probably still is) when contract painters are painting rain goods etc. black. The new undercoat is grey so the Clerk of Works can see where undercoat has been missed (grey on old black) or top coat (black on grey). Sneaky!

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                            • Guest

                              #29
                              Originally posted by \
                              If you want contrast because you have sanded or done work on the plastic just stand back and very lightly mist a grey or black from a distance after the white primer is down. You're actually not trying to change the color you're just looking for a very light splatter effect; its what they do on real cars. A light sand will show you any imperfections and then you can spray another light coat of white primer on after you have cleaned up any bad spots.
                              I sort of get this, but how would "A light sand will show you any imperfections" do that? Could it be that any dips or other slight depressions like seam lines would still be black after light sanding, so showing the need for more filler? (I think that must be it.)

                              Comment

                              • spanner570
                                SMF Supporters
                                • May 2009
                                • 15438

                                #30
                                Originally posted by \
                                The same principle was used (and probably still is) when contract painters are painting rain goods etc. black. The new undercoat is grey so the Clerk of Works can see where undercoat has been missed (grey on old black) or top coat (black on grey). Sneaky!
                                Steve, he must have been the same C of W we had when I was 'On the tools'. He had a mirror on a long stick and lowered it behind the radiators to make sure the painters hadn't missed a bit!

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