Tim has echoed my post. Oils and pigments can do all the weathering you need to master. Pastel chalks , ground up like Tim says, make pigments. The oils you have bought will last for years and years and are a good choice of colours. Echo Ian and Tim regarding put the oil paint onto card to leach out the linseed oil.
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For rust I go for Burnt sienna and Brown unbra I think. Just remember rust is rust: Comes in all colours as long as its rust. New and freshwater rust is quite orange red, if you want it lighter, use more thinner. Old rust and Sea water rust is quite a dark intense colour, more towards the red than orange. Use the same paints, just less thinners. If you want rust on a tank, remember that it will be more fresh than old and surface rust. No deep rusted through. A common mis-hap is to chuck rust on a tank like it was a hundred years old while still in service on the battlefield. Dings and scratched fine. ware and tear also, but a rusted out shell is going to be very old or totally burnt out.
I posted a few pictures of a Submarine, it on here, and a Danish one, It got praise here and slaughtered in Denmark. So you cant win either way. lolComment
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Used the Windsor & Newton oils for years. Can be used for all sorts, I tended to use them for adjusting the colour of enamel paints. For instance to get a slightly lighter or darker for shading and highlights when figure painting. But also streaking and other weathering techniques.
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I've just started experimenting with oils. I'd definitely suggest going for regular artists oils rather than dedicated products aimed at modelmakers, which come at a serious premium, for little if any advantage. For example, I got some pre-made modellers' oil washes in brown and black. They're fine, but with a couple of tubes of regular oil paint I can make a wash as thick or thin as I need it - and I can use it unthinned too, or mixed with other oils. Oil washes definitely need tweaking to get the right balance of flow and opacity.Comment
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Did my first oil wash tonight [Gulp!] ?
Used a mix of burnt umber, white and black to get a very dark dirt/grime wash.
I did put the blobs of oil paint onto some cardboard before painting (left them for about 30 mins) and a lot of the oil did leach out, which I understand helps it dry faster.
Looks ok, but how long should I wait before putting the final flat varnish on it?
I've read a week, but also read a couple of days....
Its a 1:16 figure.
NB: yes, I know,....I'm still bloody impatient! ?Comment
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Oh yeah, also forgot to ask, once I've used a brush for oil painting, should I just then only use it for that, or can you clean it enough to still use on other paints? so basically should I keep oil brushes separate from other brushes?
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Once you’ve used a brush with oils I would keep an oil brush for use with oil paints or enamels only. Oil and water don’t mix so if you try to use acrylics again after using oils the brush will splay out like something used to clean a chimney…..I tend to use cheap nylon brushes for oil washes, streaks etc, so if they get ruined nothing much is lost.Comment
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I have an oil question as well:
I did some oil 'drybrushing' yesterday over an acrylic base, next I'd like to add a gloss varnish for pin washes, how long would you guys wait before adding a varnish? Thanks ?Comment
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Many things can impact drying time. Thickness of paint layer, colour used, type of thinner used, make of paint, etc. However, I would think a couple of days would be sufficient, especially if you’ve leached out the excess oil before use and have not put the paint on with a trowel ?. I have successfully carried on painting after leaving the paint overnight, but that was with earth colours (umbers and ochres) that had the excess oil leached out. Bear in mind that water based acrylic varnish may not take well over an oil surface as well. I would seal it in with a spirit based gloss varnish if you intend to use acrylics in the later stages.Comment
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If you put your figure/vehicle on a warm radiator overnight it'll seriously speed up oil drying time. Some people build a drying box with a filament bulb inside, to dry out oils. Is it dry enough? Try wiping some off (somewhere unobtrusive). If it doesn't come off on your finger it should be OK.
I've been using dedicated cheap brushes for oils. I have no intention of letting my beautiful sable acrylics brushes anywhere near oil paint! Also, with oils I use really tiny detail brushes for application, as I don't need the moisture retaining belly of a bigger brush, as I do with acrylics.
I've experimented with painting acrylics directly over a dry oil wash and found that the first application tends to bead a little bit, but after that it's fine. Whether it degrades over time I don't know - I'll see.
And I've used both gloss and matt acrylic varnishes over dried oils and experienced no ill effects.Last edited by PaulinKendal; 27 November 2024, 11:54.Comment
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What about applying an enamel on top of an oil wash? can you do that, or would you need to seal the oil paint first?
Never realised paint was so complicated! Lol....Comment
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I used to use an oil wash over primer to highlight detail on figures back when I used Humbrol paint. Unfortunately I found acrylics wouldn’t stick properly so had to change to acrylic washes when I stopped using Humbrol. My finishing varnish of choice is a Winsor and Newton spirit based artists matt (fantastic brush varnish) or Tamiya matt when spraying, so don’t have any varnish issues over oil work.
You can, of course, get water based oils, but I’ve never tried them ?. Also don’t really see how they are oils, but that’s akin to alcohol based acrylics, so there you go…..Comment
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I have done just that. Oils dry much quicker in a warm, well lit place. A plastic storage box, a few holes drilled in the top and a low wattage bulb. A sheet of thin plywood on the base. (the black tape is where I cracked the lid by being too heavy handed drilling a hole!!
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