Protecting the base coat.

[Guest]

Hey.


So i thought id try my hand at scale models as a hobby. Picked up a 1:35 chieftain mk.5 from amazon for around £17 and built it. As it was my first ever model i was unaware of all the painting techniques id want to do, so the base is beige, and i plan on keeping that and using that model as a sort of test.


Shortly after building i picked up an IDF Shot Kal (centurion mk.5) from ebay for £20(+£10 p&p) which was the cheapest i could find. However i want some steel undercoat to show through when weathering and chipping so iv painted the base coat color steel.


The only worry i have is that when it comes time to weather and chipping the cent i will end up going through the base.


So my question would be what would be the best way to protect it from over use of the old turps? The paints im using are Revell's matte enamel, hand brushed.


Thanks in advance.


Jason

[Guest]

Have you considered using Hubrol Maskol and one of those rough greenies that you wash up with? Dab it on, paint over it, pick it off and the steel underneath shows through?

[Guest]

Never even knew something like that existed, but these two models are my first ever so it makes sense.


Its worth a try, i can see me requiring something like that, saves masking. But i'm really after something to coat the entire tank with so i can aggressively weather/chip. (picture myself downing a cup of black coffee and splashing thinner all over the place and then attacking it with a sword)


I seen a vid with loads of painting techniques and he used hairspray, not sure if that would work?


Also, love the avatar :P my friend had a tesco value halloween costume (white t-shirt with tesco value on it)


Jason.

[flyjoe180]

I seen a vid with loads of painting techniques and he used hairspray, not sure if that would work?

There are many threads here if you use the search, for techniques including the hairspray technique. Also consider salt chipping, and as Penny says, Maskol.


Lots of threads to be found. Aircraft weathering could also be useful for your tank. Barry did a thread here http://www.scale-models.co.uk/thread...t-model.27950/

[Guest]

Jason, the best way to achieve a natural & realistic chipping effect is using a fine brush or a sponge - any kind will do, washing-up ones are great.


It's much less trouble than applying an unnecessary base coat, then hairspray (or proprietary product) ,then attacking it with a toothbrush!


However, if you're set on that route, apply a good gloss coat (preferably 2) before adding the hairspray etc. Leave the gloss costs for a minimum of 48 hours to cure properly.


Also, don't forget that bare steel oxidizes very quickly in the open!


Cheers


Patrick

[Guest]

I was looking at the models and a few maskol vids and i think that might be the easiest option for a beginner like myself. It will also work with the first model having no undercoat of steel.


Maskol and a sponge over some steel before applying the main color. Plus i got it for £3 so cant really go wrong


So thanks guys, ill give that a go once it arrives


Jason

[Guest]

I was looking at the models and a few maskol vids and i think that might be the easiest option for a beginner like myself. It will also work with the first model having no undercoat of steel.
Maskol and a sponge over some steel before applying the main color. Plus i got it for £3 so cant really go wrong


So thanks guys, ill give that a go once it arrives


Jason

Dont forget to to post pictures so we can laugh at admire your work

[Guest]

Will do, but it will be the finished article because i forgot to take WIP pics. Then the hilarity begins!


Also, Im thinking more about ways to do the faded steel under the main coat, how would i go about blending the edges of the steel after the maskol leaves a clean edge? Would a little thinner do the job or would i be back at square one with regards to rubbing away the undercoat?


Jason

[eddiesolo]

Jason, my Chieftain dio uses the salt method. Base coat, in this case primer red-once dry it had a coating of water and then salt sprinkled on, once nearly dry the top coat was added-primer grey, the salt was knocked back using a toothbrush, this leaves the undercoat showing through. One benefit of using a toothbrush is that it actually dulls the surface so you get rid of any shininess.


Once dry I use a matt varnish to seal and then use oils and pigments to weather.


Si

[Guest]

Great advice there Si, All i have are enamels for the time being, Would a lacquer spray protect against thinner? Something like http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rustoleum-AE0040003E8-400ml-Crystal-Clear/dp/B001W03PS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426816118&sr=8-1&keywords=clear+matt+lacquer+spray


If that would work id give it a go as well as the maskol, might be good having both.


Again thanks for all your advice, iv never attempted modeling or painting models before so all advice is good advice until i can see what works best for me and my budget


Jason

[eddiesolo]

The salt method only really works if you are spraying as brushing on a top coat will knock it off while applying.


The laquer I use is a matt spay can version, last ages so something similar will work.

[Alan 45]

The edge of a thin brush gives a good effect like this [ATTACH]103974.IPB[/ATTACH]

the edges are all done with a brush painted on top of the base coat

[Guest]

@Si Yeah that's why the salt method wouldn't work for me, not spraying :\ so iv ordered that matte laquer.


@Alan Looks really nice, but its too prominent for what iv got in my head, altho with thinner i could make a sort of filter and apply it.


Great help as always, once the stuff arrives ill be able to get some hands on and actually see what i can do. Iv painted a few patches to try the different chipping methods out before messing up the model :P


Jason