Pre-Shading.

[Guest]

On my next build a Heinkel 111 H-6 im going to have my first go at Pre-Shading the panels lines..


Which is best to use a matt black paint or black primer, & do you pre-shade before or after priming.... .


John.

[papa 695]

On my next build a Heinkel 111 H-6 im going to have my first go at Pre-Shading the panels lines..
Which is best to use a matt black paint or black primer, & do you pre-shade before or after priming.... .


John.

Either John but prime first a light grey then pre-shade then light coats of the top colour.


And try not to be too neat with the pre-shading


That's how I do it

[Guest]

Either John but prime first a light grey then pre-shade then light coats of the top colour.
And try not to be too neat with the pre-shading


That's how I do it

Thanks Ian, that is a great help for me..


None of my painting is Neat LOL .


John.

[colin m]

Pre-shading is something I always try. Note I say try, because sometimes I put a bit too much top coat on and loose the pre-shading. Which is when, post shading can save the day.

[PaulTRose]

im the same, everytime ive tried it the top coat obliterates the pre shading ....too heavy handed, thats my problem

[Robert1968]

Ok I have one for you chaps I'm still trying to get my face painting 1/35 figures right and I still can't get the shading of faces right ( I watch all the videos and try to layer the colours so slightly around places like chins etc as subtle as possible but they never look life like enough and I've seen some figs on here and those figs tell the truth of what war is ie a laugh etc or " waft another day " but my figs always look the same no true expression

[Guest]

On my next build a Heinkel 111 H-6 im going to have my first go at Pre-Shading the panels lines..
Which is best to use a matt black paint or black primer, & do you pre-shade before or after priming.... .


John.

Hi John, I primer first using the Mr. Surfacer the preshade using tamiya flat black, try also preshade in random areas it gives more natural result in my opinion. Good luck and share us pics as you progress

[john i am]

Ok I have one for you chaps I'm still trying to get my face painting 1/35 figures right and I still can't get the shading of faces right ( I watch all the videos and try to layer the colours so slightly around places like chins etc as subtle as possible but they never look life like enough and I've seen some figs on here and those figs tell the truth of what war is ie a laugh etc or " waft another day " but my figs always look the same no true expression

You can buy separate resin heads for 1/35 figures for more detailed expressions.I just paint mine with a base coat add face wash and then just pick out a few highlights at this scale I normally find that's enough.I normally only do shading and toning in 1/16 scale and upwards.

[Guest]

Hi John, I primer first using the Mr. Surfacer the preshade using tamiya flat black, try also preshade in random areas it gives more natural result in my opinion. Good luck and share us pics as you progress

Hi Leo, thanks for the tips & will be adding pics once I get started, got to finish my Escort first .


John.

[Guest]

im the same, everytime ive tried it the top coat obliterates the pre shading ....too heavy handed, thats my problem

Well Paul this will be my first attempt so will have to hope I don't have the same problem... only time will tell .


John.

[Guest]

If I was to paint it as a night bomber/pathfinder with a black underside do you still pre-shade, & if so what colours Primer & pre-shading .


John.

[Guest]

If I was doing anything in black, I'd probably not bother with pre-shading or pre-shade with black & use a very dark grey for the main colour.


Black never looks right in any small scale IMHO

[BarryW]

I suggest prime first using either black or grey primer then pre-shade the opposite colour. Grey into the centre of panels over a black primer or black onto the panel lines when you have used a grey primer. both ways work, it just depends on what you find best.


Note though


Clean the model thoroughly with ipa before priming


Leave the primer to cure for 48 hours beforelaying down a base colour.


Lay down the base colour in very thin light coats and stop before you think there is enough laid down....


Post shade with a very heavily thinned base colour into the middle of the panels (adding extra modulation)


Then a very, very thinned base colour misted on and built up very slowly blending all together until you get the effect you want. Remember to dry down the paint between coats as it can look different when dry.


Hope that helps. The approach above makes for a very controllable process.

[stona]

I never pre-shade as I find it difficult to control, others may differ.


I do post shade, which has the advantage of allowing you to see the effect build up as you do it, as opposed to gradually disappearing as you apply your top coat. You do need to be reasonably competent with the airbrush to post shade


Like most things you have to find out what works for you. Have a go at the different techniques, there's only so much advice you can get and (like mine) it might be contrary !


Cheers


Steve

[Guest]

If I was doing anything in black, I'd probably not bother with pre-shading or pre-shade with black & use a very dark grey for the main colour.
Black never looks right in any small scale IMHO

Thanks Patrick I think if I do the night version I will just do it black & leave out the pre-shading until I have more experience with pre-shading....


John.