Have you seen this?

[Guest]

I Don't use vallejo primer-nasty stuff- I don't like it that much, as I am a quick builder. I use Mr hobby 1000 thinned, and spray it over my model like a primer (it is a primer anyway, but also a hybrid filler surfacer). Because it is cellulose based, it is compatible with enamels, all acrylics and lacquers. It gives the toughest finish I have ever used. In my opinion, I don't need anything else. The paint adhesion properties to plastic is excellent, and the paint adhesion to it is also excellent. Sure-it is messy, but it is worth it. Needle sizes don't matter, but if you have an iwata set on a .2, I recommend retracting the needle past halfway, otherwise you will end with blockages.
John

I use Mr Hobby 1000 after I have rescribed lines or over a big fill. Brings the surface


up to the condition of the smooth plastic.


Then, sacrilege I know John, I use Vallejo primer although that may now change. I do not use


any cellulose or lacquer based airbrush products. Just hate the smell and gives me a headache.


Actually I believe that Mr Hobby is a lacquer based product. Not that I know the difference between


lacquer and cellulose. Do know that as mentioned cellulose strips Stynirez but tolerates Mr Hobby Surfacer.


Laurie

[Guest]

Primed all the cockpit of my latest an Apache last night with "Styny".


Just airbrushed the top coat and the finish is superb. There is no thickness


at all with the Styny and with the top coat of Vallejo air there is no loss


whatsoever of the detail, so crisp.


No need for any correction of the Styny surface. Some went on a bit thicker


than wanted but it levelled out and no loss of detail.


This Styny goes a long way. Seems you need about half the number of drops


compared to Vallejo.


Laurie

[Guest]

Primed all the cockpit of my latest an Apache last night with "Styny".
Just airbrushed the top coat and the finish is superb. There is no thickness


at all with the Styny and with the top coat of Vallejo air there is no loss


whatsoever of the detail, so crisp.


No need for any correction of the Styny surface. Some went on a bit thicker


than wanted but it levelled out and no loss of detail.


This Styny goes a long way. Seems you need about half the number of drops


compared to Vallejo.


Laurie

Was this straight out of the bottle Laurie?


This stuff sounds like it might have hit the spot!


And part of me still wishes I had my Badger 200

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Was this straight out of the bottle Laurie?
This stuff sounds like it might have hit the spot!


And part of me still wishes I had my Badger 200

Forgive me jumping in, I use this all the time now and spray straight from the bottle


Adrian

[PhilJ]

Forgive me jumping in, I use this all the time now and spray straight from the bottle
Adrian

This is the badger styney stuff your talking about ade right? If so you rate it as well yeah?

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

This is the badger styney stuff your talking about ade right? If so you rate it as well yeah?

Oh yes,, I used to use Tamiya fine spray when I started out, then onto Halfords primers, which I still use but tend to flat them off.


With the Badger stuff its like using Tamiya Fine primer with no nasty smell and it dries in 30 mins max needing no rubbing down.


Only draw back I would have to say is so far the lack of colours, just black, grey and white, no desert tan yet


Adrian