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i always use enamel paint thinned with white spirit
ive tried a few bought washes and still find myself going back to making them myself........Citadel wargames washes are ok, didnt get on with humbrols at all, too thick.....always wanted to try the Florys so cant vouch for it
Per Ardua
We'll ride the spiral to the end and may just go where no ones been
I've tried ink washes(ink water and flow improver) homemade by myself all these branded ones citadel humbrol vallejo and Florys washes and I have now found the "one" for me and it's the Florys followed by from best to worst IMHO citadel vallejo humbrol and my own homebrew wash I hope you find one that suits you but it can be a bit of a lottery.
I just make my own and have been for years. You can start with black then add some brown to the mix then a bit of grey etc as you go along. To be fair it is mainly station buildings where I use washes and no walls are all the same colour of dirt or rust etc .
I also use soot from our coal fire.
I would say that if you already have paints then make your own washes.
Thanks I have mixed my own up till now I just thought maybe I'd try a commercial one incase there was something magical in them but I may continue with what I'm doing.
I think I'll get some oils and experiment with them.
If you want to make your own, I'd use enamel, thinned to your taste. I use artists oil paints and white spirit a lot, but it does separate very quickly, and needs constant stirring. Enamels seem to mix better with thinners so that'd make more sense from a purely practical sense. Flory's washes are excellent, but you do need to fix them down, or they'll just wear off, and fixing them can raise issues such as colour change. For my most recent build, I've been using AK products, which I find are fantastic, and can be further thinned to make brilliant filters. They are also pliable enough after an hour or so to make alterations to, using thinner.
Edited to add: the only ones I'd avoid is Vallejo acrylic ones, purely on the basis that they dry far too quickly and if you miss an overspill (easily done on a complex model) you are pretty much stuck with it! I guess some folks find them ok, but I regret spending on them personally!
the only ones I'd avoid is Vallejo acrylic ones, purely on the basis that they dry far too quickly and if you miss an overspill (easily done on a complex model) you are pretty much stuck with it!
John if you use with Vallejo acrylics the flow improver you will not have this problem.
I use about 25% you can also if you wish, I do not need to, use a retarder.
One advantage of water based acrylics, I find, is the ability to remove with just water
with a brush or tissue an offending piece or some which has not gone as expected.
Acrylics will keep removable for about 10 mins even on top of an acrylic base with
out a varnish coat. Used this technique on my Merlin and it worked for me and that
was pre Vallejo Flow improver. It is essential though to make sure the base paint is
absolutely cured. My was probably left 4 days as I had other bits to attend to just a
matter of logistics to fit things in
I do have the Vallejo range of washes but find that Lifecolor paint makes into a better
wash for me.
On final coats of varnish I find wreck any pigments which you wish to accentuate.
The varnish looses that fresh look of sticking sand. But it depends on what you
want in finish and we all have our ways (some disastrous oh yes).
Finally not knocking (this is really for Patrick) enamels as I have no knowledge other
Trouble is, 10 minutes is nothing, when you're doing all the nooks and crannies of your average tank, and, for me a non-starter. Plus, and this is a bigger issue, oil based washes just flow better, and even if you do miss a bit, they tend to feather at the edge naturally, rather than leavening a hard edge like the acrylic ones. If you use odourless thinners, they don't whiff as much either.
Just thought John you are using hand brushing which is very different to airbrushing.
For instance I would not have a coat wet enough with a wash to pool whereas with
hand brushing I would think, form my architectural rendering with brush, you have
a wetter application.
My experience above is based on Airbrushing entirely.
Laurie
Laurie I'm confused! What does airbrushing have to do with applying a wash? I'd always use a brush, but is this some new technique?
Just thought John you are using hand brushing which is very different to airbrushing.
For instance I would not have a coat wet enough with a wash to pool whereas with
hand brushing I would think, form my architectural rendering with brush, you have
a wetter application.
My experience above is based on Airbrushing entirely.
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