Pre-Shade, Washing and Weathering - What to use for panel detailing

[Guest]

Hi,

I keep seeing reference to all the above names but I'm really getting confused as to what effect I'm after?

I'm a complete novice when it comes to this art and basically what I'm looking to do is highlight the panel lines on a model. I don't want to go down the road of making the model look used, not just yet, but I do want to highlight the detail.

A local friendly model store did take the time to show me how to pre-shade by spraying the panel lines and blend it out with the top coat, but can I get the same effect with washes like Florry and is it an easier option?

Also if I was to use Florry when exactly do I apply it, i.e. after I've applied the decals but before I cover them with Klear?

As you can see I'm a bit confused so please, any help gratefully accepted.

Thanks, Colin.

[Dave W]

Have a look on You Tube.If you do a search for 'florymodels on there you will find a series of videos on how to do washes and other techniques.

[Guest]

Thanks Dave, just had a look on there and some really useful videos of the product being applied.

Looks that straight forward that I might even attempt it. I was a bit daunted after looking at some of the images in the magazines.

Am I right in guessing then that pre-shade, post-shade and washes are all different ways of getting to the same result, basically panel detail. Whereas weathering by using washes or fading panels with an airbrush, your looking at ageing the model?

[Guest]

Hi Colin - I'm interested in any answers to your query too; as a returnee/newbie I am still a little unsure how all this works and have been experimenting myself. I've tried preshading myself but, despite the praise of those on here, think I didn't cover it up quite enough and it ended up looking a little "dirty" so think there's a knack to that I have yet to crack. Haven't really tried preshading since to be honest, especially on camo patterns where I worry that a successive layer of paint (is that where I'm going wrong?) will just totally obliterate the preshading...

Then I moved onto trying the flory/promodeller "Dark Dirt" wash and have to say the ease of using that appeals (no worrying about messing up the preshading even though people seem to say you can't mess that up, but I bet I could give it a good try!). Again though am still learning and think I have tended to overdo it slightly but was a bit more pleased with my latest effort. Feel like these washes are more for creating the dirty/used look but they do get into the panel lines nevertheless.

I have now bought some black and white oil paints and gather that those can be useful for highlighting panel lines when mixed with white spirit (??) but have had too much going on in my life (and not good stuff) to be able to try that out as yet.

Not in any way pretending to be an expert here but thought my experiences may be of some vague interest. I've been getting SAM magazine of late and that tends to have good little tidbits on this stuff from time to time so maybe worth looking that up?

[Dave W]

Im also a weathering novice but used the florymodels dark dirt wash on the Typhoon in my Gallery.I put it on a gloss surface so when i wiped off the excess all that remained was the wash that had got into the panel lines.When i put it over a matt finish it seemed to stain the paint and give the model a dirty appearance.Ive had a go at preshading but made a right mess of it.Ive since bought a better airbrush,so might have another go.As the saying goes ,'a bad workman blames his tools'!.

[stona]

Pre-shading is a way of modulating the final paint finish. On aircraft this is usually done by spraying a dark colour along the panel lines.In my opinion it should be very subtle,barely noticeable. Hold a subtlely preshaded wing next to an unshaded one and only then should it be noticeable. The main problem is knowing when you've covered the shading enough.

A very similar effect can be achieved by post shading,lightening panel centres or darkening panel lines. I prefer this method as I can see exactly what I'm doing. Both methods alter the uniform paint colour(s) and make a model look less toy like.

The Flory (ex Promodeller) washes are sludge washes and are designed to lie in recessed detail and emphasise it. They are best applied over a gloss coat as they can be difficult to get off a matt finish. Seal your decals in with a gloss coat and give it time to completely dry and cure. Slosh the wash over the model,give it a few minutes to dry and then remove as much or as little as you want with a damp cloth or kitchen towel. I used to make my own sludge washes with ground up pastels,water and soap but I use these now.

Oil paints can be used for a pin wash. Make a fairly dilute wash in your solvent of choice,turps or white spirits work,the quickest drying is lighter fluid. You don't slap this all over the model! Use a fine brush and run the wash into recessed detail or along the side of raised detail. I use these washes mainly on engines,undercarriage bays etc and make an oily wash of black and burnt umber. If you get some in the wrong place you can wipe it away with a tissue or cotton bud moistened with solvent.

I've barely covered the basics here but hopefully I've clarified which method is which for you. I've been modelling a while and still keep a box of old wings to experiment on. I urge a bit of practice before comitting a new technique to your latest pride and joy!

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Thanks for the explanations guys, it's a little clearer now.

I think I'll start with the Flory washes to get some detail and as experience allows progress onto the pre/post shading disciplines.