Primer

[Guest]

Help Needed O.o O.o O.o


I have never used primer before I have revel and humbrol primer. are these any good for air brushing or are they just for brushes. do I need to thin down the primer like enamel paints??


I have read a lot of people talking about using the spray can primer from all types of shops. can you spray these from the can?? I have read about dispensing some in to a paint pot    using a straw then covering it with cling film when you have the amount you need stir to get rid of gases then it cam be air brushed on. does this work??


I am sorry if these answers are all ready on the site I am new to all this


thank for any advice


Russ

[BarryW]

Hi Russ.  I cannot answer for the spray cans as personally I prefer the control an airbrush offers.  


I also have not used the primers you mentioned.  What I would recommend are the Badget Stynylrez primers.  The spray well, self levelling, produce a superb base for painting and can be sanded to produce a feathered edge soon after.  You should wipe the model with ipa though to make sure all finger and mold release agent is removed from the plastic before spraying. It by far the best acrylic primer and unlike the car primer some you spray from cans and other solvent based primers you do not stink the place out.  

[Guest]

Russell, as you've said there are many different primers & ways of applying them. I'll break down some answers into sections..


Aerosol cans


The obvious downside to these is overspray. Only use them in a very well ventilated room or outside. The overspray can get everywhere! Also they're less easy to control than the airbrushable types.


There are a number of good aerosol primers. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is excellent. However it's lacquer based & so can (sometimes) cause problems such as eating into the plastic if applied too heavily. Also it's extremely smelly & relatively expensive.


Halfords Plastic Primer is another popular choice. Cheaper than the Tamiya & kinder to plastic as its an acrylic. Sometimes it can go down leaving a 'chalky' residue - easy enough to sand on a plane or a car, but not so easy on armour.


Poundshop primer is my personal aerosol favourite. Cheaper than the rest, with a nice finish. Also it's very forgiving if you spray too heavily.


All the above can be decanted for spraying with an airbrush in the manner you've said. But that's a potentially messy business & it is vital to allow the propellant to dissipate before using.


Airbrush primers are becoming more popular. The Badger stuff that Barry mentioned is very good. It's now marketed in the UK by Ultimate Modelling Products.


Vallejo is another popular airbrush primer, although many people have trouble spraying it. Clogging seems to be the main cause for concern & it doesn't sand down as well as the competition.


A last one to consider is just Tamiya paint. I've used that as a basecoat cum primer for years. It's easy to apply & you can airbrush it so no need to go outside.


I hope this gives you a little more info. 


Cheers


Patrick

[Guest]

thank you for the replies does it make a difference if I use a acrylic primer then use an enamel paint  on top of it ??

[Guest]

As long as you give the acrylic primer enough time to cure, that won't be a problem.


Leave it for at least 24 hours, preferably 48. Rushing the process only invites a visit from Captain Cockup!

[Guest]

Hi Russell,


I would question whether you need primer at all when using enamels - as they stick like **** all on their own.


I only ever primer when using Acrylics.

[Guest]

I use tamiya's nato black as a primer, I thin it down to a 50/ 50 mix and it sprays like silk, I also use games workshop citadel black this is a fantastic primer it comes in an aerosol so it can be decanted and comes in a large can.


scott