Masking Tape Residue

[Guest]

Hi folks - I wondered if anyone can help. I think I left a montex canopy mask on my bf110 canopy on too long and now I am removing the mask, all the panes are covered with tacky residue.

I have put a hell a lot of work into the model so far, and I don't want to ruin it with a naff canopy.

Can anyone recommend a good product/technique to remove the this gooey residue without harming the clear plastic underneath?

[Guest]

Lighter fluid is usually my go-to solution for self adhesive residues, and it works very well. However, you'll need to make your own mini cotton buds with cocktail sticks and cotton wool (just take a small sliver of cotton wool and twist it around the tip - it's simpler than it sounds and holds well) and also try it out on a spare bit of styrene from the sprue your canopy came from.

[stona]

Alcohol will often work too, I just use methylated spirit.
As John implies, you want to avoid the surrounding paint work and miniature cotton buds are a good way of doing that.
Cheers
Steve

[Guest]

Cheers Steve - meths should be easy to source.

[Guest]

I tried a methylated spirit and the lighter fuel.

The lighter fuel gave the best result. Not dissing the meths, it comes in so many grades I maybe didn't have tbe right one.

Anyhow, looks like I'll maybe get away with it. But lesson learnt, don't leave the mask on a clear part for weeks on end!

[Guest]

A poster a few weeks ago said that "Magic Tape" (the tape that looks like Sellotape but is slightly milky on the roll but becomes clear when pressed down on a model) leaves no residue when used for masking when painting models. I find that while it leaves no residue on bare plastic, it will leave a very thick and very sticky deposit on Tamiya Gloss Synthetic Lacquer TS range when applied to one of the first two coats of paint. This Tamiya paint needs two thin coats before the final wet coat. These two thin coats dry matt or semi-mat. So perhaps it is a matt surface that attracts the deposit.

Of course it is unusual to mask undercoats but I see a risk in masking glossy top coats (which is sometimes used to add decoration). Anyhow, I will never use Magic Tape again for any purpose (except wrapping Christmas presents).

I have never found Tamiya yellow masking tape leaving a deposit.

EDIT I forgot to mention that White Tack when applied to the back of 0.75 mm Polystyrene sheet (in my case to fix a handling stick to one side) will show on the other side when the above Tamiya gloss paint is applied! It will also appear on the side having the White Tack even when it is removed before painting. Fortunately, the thickness of most parts is probably great enough for that not to happen.

[Ian M]

The simple solution is use tamiya tape. I have never seen any form of residue from them. I will also say that White tac has not been an issue either.
When you start a new bit of it, roll it well until it is soft then leave it for a while. Honestly the stuff lasts forever. I'm still using the same White tac now for the third year. When not in use, it just gets dumped in an open plastic dish.
Play with it a bit until soft enough and you're ready to go.
The only problem I have with it is sagging when it is left in the sun...

[Guest]

Tamiya Tape has left a very slight deposit on a polished surface.

I have just removed the Tamiya Tape (yellow) from a flat plastic part which had been gloss coated with white Tamiya TS Synthetic Lacquer (the required three coats, the last one to wetness). The gloss coat was left to "mature" for a couple of days. The tape was necessary to prevent overspray when painting the other side. The size of the part required two widths of the 40 mm tape, one slightly overlapping the other.

I have just removed the tape and polished the surface three times with Micro Gloss Liquid Abrasive (a cream made by Micro Surface Finishing Products Inc., and three times with Novus No.1 liquid polish). In a good light the ghost of the tape edge which lay under the overlap can be seen as a very thin faint line. Also, a 1 cm x 1 cm area has appeared elsewhere under the tape giving a slightly rough appearance. On a close look with a window reflected in the part (not even a bright shaft of sunlight) the patch can be clearly seen. It does not come out in a photo.

This is the first time that I have encountered any sign of Tamiya Tape leaving any residue, either by myself or in reports in this forum. Admittedly, you have to look closely to see it. Someone looking around my model (a 1/24 road haulage tractor) on an exhibition stand would most likely not notice it. So I don't need to make a fuss of it.

One feature is that the Tamiya Tape was left on the surface for some time, perhaps 10 days, after "maturing". Could this have been responsible? If so, the remedy is obvious.

[stona]

One feature is that the Tamiya Tape was left on the surface for some time, perhaps 10 days, after "maturing". Could this have been responsible? If so, the remedy is obvious.

I have left Tamiya tape on for weeks with no adverse effects. It might be worth considering the state of the surface to which it was applied. Was this thoroughly dry and cure?
Cheers
Steve

[Guest]

I have left Tamiya tape on for weeks with no adverse effects. It might be worth considering the state of the surface to which it was applied. Was this thoroughly dry and cure?
Cheers
Steve

Yes. It was left for a week.

[Guest]

Yes. It was left for a week.

Sounds to me more the surface it was applied to, rather than the tape.

In your post at 1702 Steve, you said The gloss coat was left to "mature" for a couple of days

I assume by mature you mean cure? That's certainly not a week, and probably too short a time for the paint to fully cure.

In any case, there are always going to be exceptions to any rule or experience. So many variables exist in our hobby, it's quite impossible to compare like for like.

Temperature, humidity, paint, mixing ratios, degree of application... the list is endless! As is the search for perfection, or at least a product that works the same each & every time.

[Guest]

Yes, I meant cure. I didn't know it took a week to fully cure, so will allow for that in future. Thanks.

I have removed the roughness in the 1 cm x 1 cm area (my post at No. 8) by sanding with 4000 sanding paper (actually Albion Alloys Micro Finishing Abrasive Sheets) then their 6000 grade. When re-polished, the area had lost its rough appearance and was as good as its surrounding area.