Enamel colour washes, branded paint thinner vs white spirit?

[Thorbrand]

I've been thinking about making my own washes and storing them in some small bottles, to start with I am going to concentrate on making a black wash as this is the most used.

I know for example the Humbrol range of enamel washes has almost certainly got Humbrol paint thinner in however, I am wondering if it would be feasible to make my own wash with Matt 33 and white spirit?

As I don't yet own an air brush it seems a bit unnecessary to keep spending money on branded paint thinner when I can get 2litres of white spirit for less than £4 and that thins the paint at least enough to brush on.

Has anyone made their own black wash with white spirit? how did you do it and did you add any other ingredients like cellulose thinners or detergent?

I'm not too concerned with drying times.

[col68]

Alex I wouldn't use normal white spirits its to hot and could react with the paint on your model.
I make all my own washes using oil paints and low odor thinners I know its not much cheaper but a tube of oil paint and a bottle of thinners will make a lot of washes

[PaulTRose]

i use the cheapest white spirit i can get when using enamel paint to make that sort of wash.....no need to make it and store it cos you will use such small amounts of paint its easier to make it fresh each time

just make sure you have a clear top coat on top of the paint on the model before you use it

i also use oils/low odour thinner like colin

[Guest]

Number 1 don't use black Alex! It's too dark in 1/35, so try a very dark brown like a 50:50 black brown mix. It looks much better on any colour, especially the ones we use the most; greens, yellows & greys. Black is ok on browns, but that's it IMHO.

Cheapo white spirit is fine, but I'd recommend better grade WS. You'll see a definite improvement in how the wash behaves - cheap white spirit will cause the pigment in the paint to separate, resulting in a patchy effect. It's still a lot cheaper than the branded thinners.

I've used enamels as washes in the past, but like Colin, I'd go with oils instead. They're much nicer to work with.

Whatever you do, don't add cellulose thinner to the mix. It'll eat right into the plastic. Likewise, don't mix detergent with oil-based stuff - they're totally incompatible.

HTH

[stona]

You can use lighter fluid as a base for oil/enamel washes. Big advantage is that it dries fast!
Cheers
Steve

[Thorbrand]

Cheapo white spirit is fine, but I'd recommend better grade WS. You'll see a definite improvement in how the wash behaves - cheap white spirit will cause the pigment in the paint to separate, resulting in a patchy effect. It's still a lot cheaper than the branded thinners.
HTH

So it looks like oil paint is the one then, I always like a new challenge, I reckon black, brown, green and white should be a good start and since I'll only be using them to make washes they will probably last a while.

Am I right in assuming white spirit might be a bit too aggressive with artists oil paints? Paul mentioned using a low odour thinner?

I did try to make a wash a few months back with Revell paint remover and black enamel paint...total disaster the pigment in the paint did separate

Maybe keep the white spirit for just paint removal/brush cleaning purposes

What is a good widely available low odour thinner to use for enamels and oils?

Thanks for all your help

[Guest]

So it looks like oil paint is the one then, I always like a new challenge, I reckon black, brown, green and white should be a good start and since I'll only be using them to make washes they will probably last a while.

Am I right in assuming white spirit might be a bit too aggressive with artists oil paints? Paul mentioned using a low odour thinner?

I did try to make a wash a few months back with Revell paint remover and black enamel paint...total disaster the pigment in the paint did separate

Maybe keep the white spirit for just paint removal/brush cleaning purposes

What is a good widely available low odour thinner to use for enamels and oils?

Thanks for all your help

Low odour thinner is just white spirit that's been slightly more processed. It's generally used by those whose noses are somewhat... sensitive Windsor & Newton Sansodour is good, although you'll pay more for any low odour thinner.

Don't think that you're previous experiment means that all white spirit causes pigment separation. The Revell brush cleaner is just too aggressive for use as a thinner.

Buy WS, but avoid the Poundland stuff. Get a reasonably priced product from B & Q or Wickes etc. From my personal experience there's a definite difference in quality, and the price difference isn't that much.

WS isn't too aggressive with artists oils. But better quality oil paints give better results. It needn't be expensive either. A nice set from Windsor & Newton can be found for around £20 with a decent mixture of colours. Or you can buy a few larger tubes in the colours you'll use most ; lamp black, burnt umber, zinc white & naples yellow.

Why those colours I hear you ask? Because Naples yellow is excellent for a dusty wash. Mix it with black & you've got a variety of green shades. White is obvious & burnt umber is great on sandy coloured vehicles like German armour.

[Ian M]

I agree with Patrick. A good white spirit, And oil paints. I would add a couple of colours to his set. Paines Grey, great for a general grime. Sienna and burned sienna. Good for rust. Oil paint washes are so much more flexible and can be worked on for ages, if they start to get a bit to dry, a tiny bit of WS on the brush wakes them to life again.
I bought the large tubes of W&N and after many years, you can hardly see I have used them. A little goes a long way. Mix it as you need it as it is so simple to mix up there is no point in mixing batches.

[stona]

. Oil paint washes are so much more flexible and can be worked on for ages,

It's why I like them, they can also be worked to the point where they almost vanish.
I agree with all the points above, though for general use I do use cheap white spirits from Wickes or similar
Cheers
Steve

[colin m]

OK go with me here. What do people think about those acrylic paints, that look just like oils ?
[ATTACH]273830[/ATTACH]
Has any one tried these. I'm guessing, mix with water to a really thin consistency, then paint on and wipe off ?

[Guest]

OK go with me here. What do people think about those acrylic paints, that look just like oils ?
[ATTACH]273830[/ATTACH]
Has any one tried these. I'm guessing, mix with water to a really thin consistency, then paint on and wipe off ?

The main problem with acrylics Col is that they dry too fast. Wiping them off is often next to impossible. Oils are much more flexible with their longer drying time.

[Ian M]

OK go with me here. What do people think about those acrylic paints, that look just like oils ?

I don't think that they will be any different than the acrylics in you model paints box.
As Patrick wrote the good thing with oils is the slow drying.

[col68]

OK go with me here. What do people think about those acrylic paints, that look just like oils ?
[ATTACH]273830[/ATTACH]
Has any one tried these. I'm guessing, mix with water to a really thin consistency, then paint on and wipe off ?

I got some of these bought for me as gift ( they thought they were oils) ended up using them for colouring ground work a bit expensive but couldn't think of any other use for them

[colin m]

Thank you all. I knew there was a catch with the acrylic ones.

[stillp]

Artists' stores sell a slow drying medium for thinning those acrylic paints in a tube.

Pete