New guy, basic questions

[Guest]

Hi.
I have recently started to take modelling up as a hobby. I am making lots of mistakes (as you might expect) but learning from each one.

I had a few questions, the answers I know are out there on the internet but can't seem t find them easily...

I am using a mixture of acrylics and enamels on my models, I prefer the enamels as there are minimal brush marks I have found.
I have normal 'painters' acrylics too, are these okay to use?

Why do people thin paints? surely using straight from the bottle gives a good, workable colour. Is it a necessity all the time? Even on the smaller detail pieces? I worry that if I thin my acrylics, it will be more liquidy, meaning that it is more likely to gather around ridges and details.

The other part I don't fully understand is the process of decals. I understand how to apply them, and have done successfully before.
Must they goon a gloss layer of some sort? If I am putting a decal on a matt finish of, say a plane, I understand that the best way is to put a coat of gloss on it, then the decal. Is this gloss on just the decal area orthe whole model? Because then it looks glossy afterwards?
If it is on the whole model, surely there will be detail parts I have painted with a gloss finish anyway, while others I want a matt finish!?

Thanks for taking the time to read through, as I say, I know these are pretty simple questions but I am only just beginning.

Edd

[peterairfix]

First of all welcome Edd.
People thin paints either for airbrushing or for brushing several thin coats can be better and as for the decel question I can't answer that one as I always put my decels on with no gloss or matt coat

[stona]

They are very good questions!

I'm an enamel user and for brush painting I generally don't thin them at all. I'll let others pass comment on other paint systems.

The reason for applying decals onto a gloss finish is simply to reduce the chances of silvering, where the decal film is made visible by air trapped under the decal. A smooth gloss surface mitigates against this, particularly compared to a rougher (on a microscopic scale) matte surface.

You can apply the gloss either to the entire model, as most do to protect the paint surface, or just to the area to be decalled. It's up to you. Subsequently, most then apply another coat of gloss varnish over the model, prior to weathering, which will also will seal in the decals. Last, a suitable varnish for the subject can be applied. There are matte, satin and gloss varnishes available for this, again, the choice if yours depending on the model.

There maybe more stages depending on how a model is weathered etc. But generally gloss under decals, generally over them too prior to weathering, and then a final varnish to give the desired finish

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Thanks for your reply. Wow that's a lot of varnishing!
2 more questions.
Pic of 2 components, I am painting them white, I am painting them with a number of layers to make them look a good solid colour, however the more I put on, the more detail is lost (tiny holes).
I have loads of this detail on the final model so obviously don't want to loose the detail.
How can I paint this giving a solid colour but without loosing detail?

I have painted the black on here, however the edges blur a bit, I did not use masking tape as I worry it may rip off the paint that I put it on (I know there is none in this photo) and I would not know how to place a masking tape curve on.
how would I do this? Do I have to use masking tape?

Thabks
[ATTACH]282968[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]282967[/ATTACH]

[dave]

The trick is many thin coats (use thinned paint) and patience. White and yellow can be difficult to get good coverage. I sometimes find using a light grey/sand respectively as a first coat can help.

For the masking you can get narrow masking tape for curves, and then use wider to fill in behind. The other option is to use "patafix" (white blutack) or the modelling equivalent such as panzer putty.

[Ian M]

Steve covered the decal issues very well and the paint bit as well.
Just so I feel good the colours white and yellow are well known as buggers. The pigments in them are generally transparent.
Generally a primer coat of matt white or very light grey will give the cover you need then a coat or two of thinned gloss over the top normally does the trick.
If brush painting remember to let the paint cure between coats.

[Guest]

Hi mate, good to hear you have picked up this hobby, you won't regret it.
Just a quick thing, you said you are using a mixture of enamels and acrylics. Be careful there, as acrylics and enamels, when sprayed on top of each other (both ways) can produce chemical reactions, ruining your paint job, depending on which paints you are using. I did it once, and I ruined a 1/32 Bf 110
Cheers, John

[Guest]

Hello and welcome from another total beginner! Myself just started building scale models again about 4 weeks ago and I wish I'd started sooner...
I'm also trying to get the grips on the paint department and there's going to be many mistakes before I fully understand what works and what doesn't.

Here's what I've learned so far, and what seems to work for me.

Currently I'm using spare parts to practise painting and it's a lot less stressful playing around with spare parts than the actual models.
Weathering I've been practising on PET bottle caps. They are textured and disposable.
I also bought a cheap Tamiya T34/76 to practise on. The plan was to build it properly and then beat it up and practise weathering and rust.
That tank is looking pretty crap at the moment but I've learned a lot

What seems to work for me at the moment is Tamiya paint with 20-25% cellulose thinner. Works really well in my airbrush, no splatter - just a fine mist and it's really quick to clean when changing paint.
Several thin coats to build up the colour, and to preserve details.
The same paint, with thinner, also works fine when using a brush but I use a bit less thinner when brushing.
The paint dries really quick though but I try to airbrush as much as possible and if it becomes a problem you can use a retarder to slow down the drying process when using a brush. (so I've heard)

I used to build scale models as a kid 35 years ago and I stopped because all models looked like they'd been painted with a hammer... sigh.
I've learned a lot in these 4 weeks compared to what I knew back then!

There are so many talented builders/painters on youtube that shows how it's done. Pick one methodology that suits you and the style you're after.
Some are just far too advanced for me to even attempt to replicate, but they are all valid!
Here are some of the youtube channels that inspired me to attempt building scale models again:
Andy's Hobby Headquarters, IvanTheTerrible, Adam Mann, Shane Smyth

I also did the noob mistake of buying paints from several manufacturers, which turned into some issues...
I'm still very much a noob but I'm now only using Tamiya paints and the results are much better - and cleaning is quick!

The most important thing I've learned is that different manufacturers paints use different thinners. I initially thought "thinner" must be white spirit and poured some into my airbrush after using Tamiya paint for the first time... Bad idea. Took some elbow grease to clean for sure! Some paints wants water for thinner, others cellulose thinner. If you are unsure, buy the one the manufacturer sells for their paints.

A really good advice I got here was to clear coat whenever you're happy because whatever you paint on top of that, which you are unhappy with, can easily be removed!
I'm not so sure that's the case with enamel paints though...?

[Guest]

Hello and welcome from another total beginner! Myself just started building scale models again about 4 weeks ago and I wish I'd started sooner...
I'm also trying to get the grips on the paint department and there's going to be many mistakes before I fully understand what works and what doesn't.

Here's what I've learned so far, and what seems to work for me.

Currently I'm using spare parts to practise painting and it's a lot less stressful playing around with spare parts than the actual models.
Weathering I've been practising on PET bottle caps. They are textured and disposable.
I also bought a cheap Tamiya T34/76 to practise on. The plan was to build it properly and then beat it up and practise weathering and rust.
That tank is looking pretty crap at the moment but I've learned a lot

What seems to work for me at the moment is Tamiya paint with 20-25% cellulose thinner. Works really well in my airbrush, no splatter - just a fine mist and it's really quick to clean when changing paint.
Several thin coats to build up the colour, and to preserve details.
The same paint, with thinner, also works fine when using a brush but I use a bit less thinner when brushing.
The paint dries really quick though but I try to airbrush as much as possible and if it becomes a problem you can use a retarder to slow down the drying process when using a brush. (so I've heard)

I used to build scale models as a kid 35 years ago and I stopped because all models looked like they'd been painted with a hammer... sigh.
I've learned a lot in these 4 weeks compared to what I knew back then!

There are so many talented builders/painters on youtube that shows how it's done. Pick one methodology that suits you and the style you're after.
Some are just far too advanced for me to even attempt to replicate, but they are all valid!
Here are some of the youtube channels that inspired me to attempt building scale models again:
Andy's Hobby Headquarters, IvanTheTerrible, Adam Mann, Shane Smyth

I also did the noob mistake of buying paints from several manufacturers, which turned into some issues...
I'm still very much a noob but I'm now only using Tamiya paints and the results are much better - and cleaning is quick!

The most important thing I've learned is that different manufacturers paints use different thinners. I initially thought "thinner" must be white spirit and poured some into my airbrush after using Tamiya paint for the first time... Bad idea. Took some elbow grease to clean for sure! Some paints wants water for thinner, others cellulose thinner. If you are unsure, buy the one the manufacturer sells for their paints.

A really good advice I got here was to clear coat whenever you're happy because whatever you paint on top of that, which you are unhappy with, can easily be removed!
I'm not so sure that's the case with enamel paints though...?

some really good stuff there, but It sounds you haven't heard that Tamiya can be thinned with isopropyl alcohol. A lot cheaper and healthier to use than Cellulose thinner (which does real damage to your lungs), cellulose should only be used with lacquers, like Mr color.
Cheers, John

[Guest]

some really good stuff there, but It sounds you haven't heard that Tamiya can be thinned with isopropyl alcohol. A lot cheaper and healthier to use than Cellulose thinner (which does real damage to your lungs), cellulose should only be used with lacquers, like Mr color.
Cheers, John

Sorry John, but health exceptions aside, there's nothing wrong with thinning Tamiya acrylics with cellulose thinners. Or Mr Hobby Aqueous for that matter.

It provides a far better spraying experience & finish than using either IPA or X-20 thinners.

Obviously there's also nothing wrong with using IPA if that's your preference.

[Mr Bowcat]

It provides a far better spraying experience & finish than using either IPA or X-20 thinners.

Patrick, I'm intrigued by this. I use X-20 for thinning Tamiya and get good results. In what way does cellulose thinners perform better?

Cheers,

B

[Guest]

Sorry John, but health exceptions aside, there's nothing wrong with thinning Tamiya acrylics with cellulose thinners. Or Mr Hobby Aqueous for that matter.

It provides a far better spraying experience & finish than using either IPA or X-20 thinners.

Obviously there's also nothing wrong with using IPA if that's your preference.

Sorry, meant it as another option, not as an absolute.

[Guest]

Thanks for your replies.
Ian M, surely a matt white primer will have the same trouble though? Or is primer thicker and will show up better than a traditional matt white paint?

Clear coating anything your happy with sounds like a needed tip for me! I am already getting better, but just need more practice.

Are there any particular top coat finishes to use to preserve the paint job and weathering? I thought I heard a usual go to was some form of floor polish?

Also, do people actually prime their models before brush painting? or it that a waste of time unless you need to paint on whites and yellows? It seems to me that a layer of primer would reduce the detailing on the kits.

Thanks
Edd

[Guest]

Patrick, I'm intrigued by this. I use X-20 for thinning Tamiya and get good results. In what way does cellulose thinners perform better?

Cheers,

B

In my experience Bob, the cellulose thinners gives a much easier spray, without any clogging or intermittent flow - often a typical problem with acrylic paints.

The finish is smoother & there's no roughness or "orange peel" effect: a common complaint when using Tamiya acrylics.

If you use a high gloss thinner (like those used in the automotive industry), even matt colours go down with a nice sheen which makes laying down a gloss coat much easier. I've always found Tamiya paint seems to suck up gloss coats, needing many coats to get them really glossy.

HTH

[Mr Bowcat]

Cheers Patrick, I'll pick some up and give it a go.