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The colours in the manual are not the same as the demo model (the one in the pictures I attached). If you had to take a guess, what would say was used for the lower body (the dark grey, which the manual says is Revell #78) upper body (which the manual says is Revell #374) and the fin (which the manual says is the same #374)?That's the best way - and it ensures that you will have a good experience and not never do any scale modelling again!
I stopped about 30 years ago because the kits were wonky and they looked like they'd been painted with a hammer. Mostly because I was terrible at painting but also because of what was available to me.
Today we have instant access to information so we can easily research data and order stuff whenever we want, from wherever we want, and that's a huge benefit!
Don't think brush painting is less good because it isn't. I do all of my detail work with a brush, and so do most modellers. Airbrush is excellent at spraying even paint on large uneven surfaces with great control. It's also fantastic for painting smaller parts and lines etc, but painting the face of a 1/35 scale figure it's not good at all.
Brush painting large surfaces require a lot of skill and knowledge about paints and how they behave whereas an airbrush is much more forgiving - and quicker, and that's why most paints are catered for airbrush usage, but there's an awful lot of paint for brushing too.
Scale modelling is all about mixed media for me and I'll use whatever tool and paint I think is best at the moment. We have several builders here that don't own an airbrush and they create stunning work despite the fact
Finding the right colour is easy if you know exactly what you want because you buy the paint according to numbers in charts. This hobby is a bit anal when it comes to details so you can be sure that the historical colours are correct when you buy from any of the well known paint manufacturers like Tamiya, Vallejo, Mr Color, AMMO by Mig, Mr Paint (MRP), Humbrol etc etc.
Just look at a colour conversion chart and find the corresponding colour you want.
Having lots of paint at home is the life of a modeller because you never have all the ones you need so we always buy a few more every time we order something. The jars/bottles are small so they don't cost much, but if you add up all the different colours it's a different thing - but we don't talk about that...
Try to find the correct colours for your sub and paint your "trainer" model with those colours and make corrections until you're happy, then you know it'll be correct when you move on!
Or am I just wrong and those are the correct colours - the previews I get for them on the web could be wrong.Comment
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I wouldn't put too much faith in depicted colour from the internet. There's too many variables like computer settings, your monitors interpretation of the colour, the original printed subject etc. Colours would have varied from supplier to supplier and dock to dock on the actual subs so 'close enough' is acceptable (check out scale effect https://www.cybermodeler.com/color/scale_effect.shtml )
Try getting a small tin of each colour and brush paint one of the yogurt bottles. Experiment with thinning the paint and/or applying over different undercoats (any colour can be an undercoat in this instance, just let it dry for at least 24 hours before coating again) or no undercoat.Comment
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Hi Cristian,
If you buy Halfords primer, they do a plastic primer (for bumpers and things) which works well on plastic kits. I've used in myself in the past for priming, and it also comes in a few colours.Si vis pacem, para bellum.Comment
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Update: I have finished this model and I am quite happy with the results for a first attempt, what do you guys think?
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