Paint for diecast vehicles

[yan]

With “restoration”, do you mean bringing the Dinky Toys back into their original, as-new condition? In that case I’m wondering if an airbrush is even the right tool for the job — I suppose the paint on toy cars is far thicker than what you’ll likely lay down with an airbrush, especially one intended for detail work. Spraying whole toy car bodies a single colour will go just as well with a simple spray gun or a spraying can, as with an expensive airbrush — perhaps even better.

[yan]

Hi Jakko thank for your input, well with restoration it would be good if it was possible to bring them back to original condition. I had questioned myself using the acrylic paints against enamels or automotive paints but am unsure whether it would be possible for me to go this route.
To go the Spraygun route I believe I would need a much larger compressor and if going the automotive paints proper breathing apperatus.
Don’t know much about equipment for spraying enamels but maybe more concerns with clean up.
Regarding rattle cans would you be able to get a quality finish from one of these.
I have seen some work on YouTube from users using cans and have seen some poor results but what do I know.
I am willing to go which ever route is best, just trying to find out.

[yan]

Hi Yan, sorry, sold you a pup there, I actually have an Iwatta Studio power jet lite compressor....not a sparmax....very similar though.
It gives very well controlled air flow with start and stop tech which means it only runs when you need it. Makes it much quieter in use.....
If you have a look at the Airbrushes.com web site they show useful compatibility charts for brushes and compressors. Basically pick your brush then pick a compressor that will deliver enough air to run it....

[yan]

Thanks Tim will give the site a look.

[yan]

Hi Ian, Jakko makes a very good point. Having owned and played with many Dinky and Matchbox toys over the years, They all were really heavily painted.
I'm thinking a small cup gun on a standard compressor would do the trick. You water color boys out there may laugh at this but I would recommend an oil base paint such as good old enamel or lacquer if you want a smoother job. It would certainly be more durable as well as authentic.
Regards, Rick H.

[yan]

Hello Mini Me thanks for your post I understand where you are coming from.
Looks like I have more research to do.
What about enamel spraying with an airbrush would this be possible to get a decent enough job.

[Tim Marlow]

I think Jakko May have a point as well. For what you are doing, you may find car spray cans the best fit. It is paint that is designed to go on smooth, be tough when dry, and stay on sheet metal. You will get a lot of tins for the money a decent airbrush/compressor set up will cost.

[yan]

I think Jakko May have a point as well. For what you are doing, you may find car spray cans the best fit. It is paint that is designed to go on smooth, be tough when dry, and stay on sheet metal. You will get a lot of tins for the money a decent airbrush/compressor set up will cost.

[yan]

Hi Tim I will get a few tins and have a practise and see what kind of finish on metal I can get.
I am also going to call on a professional motorcycle airbrusher near me to get some advice.

[Guest]

Having owned and played with many Dinky and Matchbox toys over the years, They all were really heavily painted.

That’s what I was thinking too, yes. I think it’ll be difficult to recreate a finish like that with an airbrush (but prove me wrong ).

To go the Spraygun route I believe I would need a much larger compressor and if going the automotive paints proper breathing apperatus.

I was actually referring to a modeller’s spray gun, like this:



Easily powered by a modelling-type compressor, and completely suitable for painting models in a single colour, especially if you don’t mind the coat being thicker than with a true airbrush.

Regarding rattle cans would you be able to get a quality finish from one of these.

Certainly, though like all these kinds of things, it takes a little practice. Depending on how much you intend to paint, it can be the more economical option, and clean-up is guaranteed to be far less than with an airbrush that you have to clean thoroughly after spraying (my biggest gripe with them ).

By the way, if you reply to a message, you can type your reply in that, without needing to start a second message for that

[yan]

Thanks Jakko
yes I was thinking that you meant a proper type spraygun, I could easily get one of those guns I think Humbrol do them. We’re you meaning for me to use the enamel paints with the gun.
Thanks for the message tip.
Looks like I have a bit of trialling to do to find out the best option, I am going to hunt up some professional guys who work on motorcycles and cars with airbrushes and spray guns to get some advice as well.

[Guest]

yes I was thinking that you meant a proper type spraygun

That’s what I realised when I read your reply, so I should have been clearer from the start, really.

I could easily get one of those guns I think Humbrol do them.

Several brands do, and there’s some difference in them,* but really, unless you go for the very cheapest you should be OK.

* My very first airbrush was a Humbrol spray gun, back in the mid–late eighties, soon powered by a compressor my father built for me from a fridge pump. By the time that spray gun broke down I was using a proper airbrush, but later I bought a Revell one that I didn’t like much, and after a few years got a Badger instead that just feels better. Neither has been used for years at this point, though

We’re you meaning for me to use the enamel paints with the gun.

You can, I used to spray mostly Humbrol enamels out of my first one, but acrylics just clean up more easily so that’s probably the better choice in general.

Looks like I have a bit of trialling to do to find out the best option, I am going to hunt up some professional guys who work on motorcycles and cars with airbrushes and spray guns to get some advice as well.

When you do, keep in mind that model painting is very different from airbrushing artwork. The technical principles may be the same, but in actual practice there are a lot of differences in all kinds of things.

[Ian M]

Don't forget to use a primer for metal. There after you can use any type of paint that you want.
Regarding the durability, you need to remember that the original use was for small kids to abuse, chew, lick, and generally treat not to gently.
Car paint rattle cans are going to work out rather expensive in the long run.
Acrylic is pretty tough when hardened, but an enamel like humbrol could be a better choice.
As to which type of airbrush, go for one that has seals that can handle so called hot thinners, such as cellulose.

[yan]

Don't forget to use a primer for metal. There after you can use any type of paint that you want.
Regarding the durability, you need to remember that the original use was for small kids to abuse, chew, lick, and generally treat not to gently.
Car paint rattle cans are going to work out rather expensive in the long run.
Acrylic is pretty tough when hardened, but an enamel like humbrol could be a better choice.
As to which type of airbrush, go for one that has seals that can handle so called hot thinners, such as cellulose.

Thanks for your post Ian I have plenty of work to do now, at present I am making a spray station.
I might then try a rattle can or two but not sure what the finish will be like, then I am going to try a small gun similar to the Humbrol one with enamels.
Depending on the outcome the next option will be the airbrush with acrylics, I was initially hoping this would have been the best way mainly because of
cleanup but unsure at present, lots of experimenting to do.